guys

What did they do back in the time, with the gearbox oil drain bolt that protrudes quite a bit from the bottom of the engine?

So your chain is bone dry on the inside of the rollers and bushing, where it needs the lubrication the most... Or is the 'old juice' your secret lube?

Great picture with the spetators in the background

I degrease my chain as little as possible. and when I do, I use petrolium. ( if you degrease the chain completely it always takes some time before the grease is able to penetrate completely in the bushings) After washing my bike I ride the chain dry or blow it dry with compressed air. If there's still to much gunk on the chain, I brush it of with a steel wire brush, or wipe it of as much as possible with a cloth. To grease the chaine I use S100 White Chain Spray, wich leaves a reasonable dry film on the chain

Haven't got a clue...

Any forum members going to this event? I'm looking forward to it. It's a shame though that it's on the same date as the 4 day trial De la Creuse in Sardent http://www.belgiumworldtrial.be/default.aspx Pré sale tickets: http://www.zonetrial.com/Articles.aspx?MarkSelected=A+BelgiumWorldTrial&topic=0

Ceramic technology is widely used and has become very reliable and durable, for instance in the pump industry etc. Regarding development costs for a four stroke: The Montesa 4RT engine is also based on previous engines, I think the Honda XR range... The 2-stroke is hard to beat regarding weight to power ratio, fairly simple construction, robustness, power delivery etc... that's why I like them. But when I'm waiting in line at a non-stop, I would rather be behind a 4 stroke that runs on Alkylate fuel than an oil burning 2 stroke... I think environmental laws will, in the not so distant future, dictate the survival of the 2 stroke engine (Belgian government almost passed a law, banning all 2 stroke mopeds)

It's always been the favorite engine type of Soichiro Honda, the founder. Just look at the race history of Honda for instance in the 60's and 70's, lots of (small capacity) multi cylinder high revving four strokes

No worry's!

They don't have to spend that much millions developing a four stroke. GasGas just bought the rights to build 4 stroke and 2 stroke engines from a well known MX/Enduro brand... Maybe one day they will develop a cylinder/piston combination (and conrod bearings) (ceramic maybe) that need no lubrication so the 2 stroke engine doesn't need to burn oil, until that day I'm afraid the four stroke has the upper hand in emissions and thus the future...

This is how it should be!

Is the top cap removed when you've got this problem? Because as stated above, in a closed fork leg, the air trapped inside will act like a spring at the end of the stroke...

I've got fiber plates in the clutch of my T350 (type159), and use light gear oil ( ELF HTX 740 or GRO Gear Extreme 75W) works perfect. In the gearbox I use SAE 80W90. Bultaco manual prescribes SAE 90. The 80W90 performs better in summer and winter. Also the thicker gear oil reduces the noise from the gearbox a little bit. I've tried a fuel mixture of 70:1 and the Bultaco didn't seem to mind it, but to be on the safe side, I now use 50:1 (Manual says 20:1 but two stroke oils are much better these days)

Hi Craig. Most Modern forks, like your Showa, are sealed completely, the air in some the forks acts like an additional cushion/spring. As for bleeding the damper, this can take some time and a lot of compleet compressing and extending the fork leg. This is of course best done without the spring in the other fork leg.

I think he meant that's why you need a spotter

Try the search function on the right hand top of this page, I gave me this: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/44620-slit-in-sidewall/?hl=%2Bstans+%2Btubes#entry326493 Because the side walls flex a lot you need special off road tire patches

As nelly stated this is normal, even a small amount of rotanional (radial) play is normal. The axial play is there to allows the disc to line itself with the brake pads for a quick and sensitive brake feel. Also when you brake the forks twist a little bit, the floating disc compensates this movement.

+1 Contrary to what is stated in the link from post #3 there's nothing 'high tech' on the DB killer. Because I lost the nut that keeps the mesh in place, I made one myself from aluminium mesh that I got from a DIY shop. A lot cheaper than the £ 60 (or about €50 I paid for mine) they ask for the Jitsie db killer: http://www.apico.co.uk/decibel-killer-montesa-red-07-09.html

Thanks for this great serie about all the old bikes, love it!

I use Fox Dirtpaw and Fox Polarpaw (winter) gloves and they are comfortable, not so flimsy as some trial gloves and they offer some knuckle protection for when a tree comes to close to my handle bars

I think the ball prevents oil from escaping thru the vent hose when the bike falls on it's side...

I think a plastic (toy) ball between the fender and the bottom fork triple clamp works better: no need to drill holes...

I know this is confusing, but don't worry, it works fine and doesn't have any negative effect on the clutch...

At our club each rider has to observe one event a year. We have about 4 regular observers and because we've got 6 non-stops, we need the extra 2 riders to observe. If you observe, you get the maximum points you would otherwise get if you won the event.

And here's a little movie of the event: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bR5zN5afCE