guys

Cold but cool stuff, great music too.

Seems to me that someone started off on the wrong foot and now has to explain he didn't mean it like that. Now shake hands and make up. (Excuse the bad English, it's not my native language)

I can't think of a good reason to stay of the rear brake when controling your speed, I was always told to use it to control the speed when going very slow. You can still apply the rear brake even if your foot is tilted to one side on the peg. Here's how Jordi Pascuet explains it in his video: Lean your bike in to the turn. Bend your knees but stay centered with your body over the foot pegs, don't lean forwards over the handle bars. Control your speed by applying the clutch and brakes. He emphasizes on practicing using the rear brake because this technique will also be usefull when climbing steap hills...

800 bucks for a knife!?

I had the same problem with my X-light. This product sealed it: http://www.notubes.com/Sealant-C14.aspx (Is very popular by mountain bikers)

Right fork 405 ml ( oil level 38 mm fork compressed) Left fork 410 ml (oil level 87 mm fork compressed without spring) 5 weight oil is correct

I understand your frustration but it's not Christian's fault that you don't have a Montesa dealer in Russia. And if 15 dealers in Spain and Italy didn't even react on your e-mails, it might be more complicated than you think. Not every dealer has the ambition to be an international dealer, maybe he hasn't got enough staff to do it. As I've told you I know several people who shop at ZoneTrial and I've never heard a bad word about him. Nevertheless I hope you find a way to get a bike so you can enjoy it. Kind regards, Guy

To remove the bottom inner race: make two cuts with a small angle grinder (with 1mm thin cutting disc) opposite to each other, at about 45 degrees in the race as deep as you can/dare, but don't cut to deep so you don't damage the stem. The heat created by grinding is usually enough to loosen the inner race so you can tap it of the stem with a metal chissel wich is placed in the 45° cut. If it still won't budge, put the stem flat on the work bench and place the metal chisel in the cut at 90°, hit it with a hammer so the inner race breaks in two pieces. I've used this technique numerous times at work.

I will be disassembling my front wheel one of these days and let you know

Sorry guys, I couldn't go to the event, didn't sleep very much the night before and felt to sick and tired to go

So far so good although I have my doubts about how long the zip will last. The adjustable "belt" doesn't take the tension of the zip because it stretches to much...

If current bikes are strong enough why does Sherco reinforces the area around the rear shock on the factory bikes and why did Belgiums top rider had to change the frame of his GasGas before he could sell it at the end of the season? I know that the top riders batter their bikes much more than us club riders, but still... And I find it hard to believe they increased the weight to suit Montesa, I think the factory Montesa's have no problem to meet the previous minimum weight of 67 kg. I stiil haven't heard of the official reason to increase the weight, or did I miss something? Anyway I couldn't care less if my next bike weighs 3 kg's more, I'm more worried about the loss of places to ride...

Thanks It should be dry and maybe sunny but a bit chilly, 7°C

I gues so. I use Castrol power RS for my 159 and GasGas

You've probably already checked that the oil line from the lever to the clutch isn't pinched anywhere?

Just to be complete: If you put a tube in a tubeless rim, without drilling a hole in the rim to mount a tire lock (like the one in your front tyre), there's a great chance you'll tear of the valve if you brake or accelerate a bit hard.

Looking forward to this Dutch trial. The first serious test of the new The Magicals shocks on my Sherpa. After that the wheel hubs are going to France to get relined... http://www.mijnmotorclub.nl/index.php/27-25e-christmas-pleasure-trial-29-december-2013 http://www.mijnmotorclub.nl/images/DocumentenMCA/2014Trial/Flyer_CPT_29-12-2013.pdf

I don't ride at a very high level, I'm not sponsored nor do I have money to burn so my tyres last way longer than 4 trials. To give you an idea: a new rear Michelin has center knobs that are about 13mm high. On the rear tyre of my monty, the knobs are about 10mm high and I not planning a tyre change in the near future. ( I must say the leading edge isn't to round, maybe because I did a 4 day trial with a lot of road between the sections) On the GasGas that I bought, the leading edge was more rounded of so I turned the tyre on the rim, which is a reasonable common practice... Also, don't worry to much about the little cracks around the knobs I guess it's just what you expect from a tyre and the budget you've got...

As I said, it 's hard to judge from photos but I wouldn't be too concerned. Just put it back together and enjoy it.

I also wouldn't worry about the plug colour. It 's almost impossible to give carb tuning advise when you don't know if everything else is perfect and in wat condition the engine was running right before he shut the engine down. Even though it's hard to give an opinion based on photo's, I have to agree with lineaway: that cilinder has a lot of scratches for one that's only run for 3 hours. You mentioned in your first post you cleaned out the bottom end, what was in it? Maybe that explains the scratches...

http://www.csgnetwork.com/oilfuelcalc.html

I once followed a training on oils given by a representative from Texaco. He told us there's no need to use full synthetic oil (if it's not prescribed by the car manufacturer). Semi-synthetic is more than good enough for normal use. I must say this was about 10 eyars ago, but at that time, even the formula one team that used their oil, used semi-synthetic oil...

Honda's been making 4 stroke outboard motors since 1964 (in the US sold since 1967) They've had succes with 4 strokes in road racing since the 60's. Honda just has a long history and tradition with 4 stroke engines, hell even their weed wackers have 4 stroke engines. To each his own, but I like to go with the facts and leave the speculation to others. I hope I didn't offend you, with it being christmas and all. But I'm going to shut up now, because we are way off topic.

Sorry, I was under the impression we drove motorcycles, not boats or jetski''s. My mistake.

Because U use the word 'mate', I'm guessing your from the UK, or at least not from the US. Spark arrestors are mainly used in the US...