guys

The original is about 5,4mm in diameter I think, but because mine was worn I put one in I had lying around which is 6mm. That's the largest one that will fit the hole.

I'm sorry, you're correct : I have the clutch plate kit with modern friction material and if I did not leave the first (steel) plate out of it, the total amount of plates would be to thick: The pressure plate would not engage with the clutch hub cams.

I think if you fit the plate that fits on the hub first, your aluminium clutch basket wont last very long as the steel plate wil damage it. This is the correct way i.m.o.: About the number of clutch plates: The pressure plate should always just fit over the clutch hub cams so it rotates as one unit.

CASTROL A747 Features High performance castor/synthetic 2-stroke engine oil For use in highly stressed, high performance 2-stroke engines Excellent combustion chamber deposit control Very low rates of piston ring wear Special additives to prevent throttle slide sticking in wet conditions High Performance for Race Conditions Castrol A747 is a CASTOR/SYNTHETIC engine oil specifically designed for use in highly stressed, high performance, 2-stroke engines using premixed fuels, including water-cooled, road racing go-kart engines. Castrol A747 has been developed for race conditions where combustion chamber deposit control is essential. Castrol A747 is only recommended for premix systems. Its viscosity is too high for use in oil injection systems. Castrol A747 is recommended only for very high performance two-stroke engines. If used in lower performance, lower revving engines, excessive deposit formation may result I use this in my 1975 Bultaco at 65/1: http://www.castrol.c...ntentId=7079433

Good camera position: one gets a good idea of how steep the terrain is and how fast you're going

Just to be sure I got 2 of these filler caps from InMotion, one for the gearbox and one for the primary drive.

No worry's

14-24-7

Here are some pictures of a home made spring compressor: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/gallery/album/168-bultaco-clutch-spring-compressor/ I had the same problem: the clutch slipped to hard when kickstarting so it would not start. And when it finaly started after a half hour kicking it would ride fine without the clutch slipping. I had mounted the new type clutch plates kit, but I had to put 2mm thick shims under the clutch springs and now it starts fine...

Great view!

My apologies to the Czech! There was nothing wrong with the electronic ignition. Apparently the clutch slipped a bit when I kickstarted the engine so it did not make enough rpm's to get a decent spark. I made 2mm thick shims to get a bit more pre-tension on the clutch springs, mine has the cups with pins on the springs, not the nuts. Now it starts with no problem She should be ready to take part in the classic 2 day trial in HERGENROTH, Germany

It's magic

It's normal RH thread

It was my first time there but I suspect it won't be my last. Very nice event! The results are online: http://enduro.pagesp...al/sardent2013/ Some pictures I took after I finished my rounds: https://www.facebook...00736362&type=3

I have a Sigma BC 700 on my Montesa that used to be on my BMW road motorcycle as a clock/trip meter. It's over 23 years old and still working fine so they must be good ;-)

Where is the improvement in 2 stroke engines when some brands have been using the same carburetor for over 25 years? It comes down to the same principal: if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I agree the 4RT could benefit from some weight loss, but apart from that there was and there is nothing wrong with it.

I loved it, but have my doubts about the last jump...

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