guys

There should be a brake-cable holder welded on your frame, about 5 inches above your RH footpeg. Then there should be, or you will have to make a brake-cable holder right above the swingarm spindle on the left side. Venhill makes brake cables for this conversion. Take a look at some pictures of Bultaco's and you will see what I mean. By the way, BultacoUK has some nice aluminium gear levers. They are better than the standard steel ones because they will bend instead of bending your gear-lever axle if you should hit something..

A bike thats a bit heavier is also more stable. + the power delivery is very smooth (Ossa's also) so better for a novice. I realy don't think a few kg's would make that much difference. I think any 250 is a good starter bike... I'm not talking about relyabilty, most people like their bike the best...

I had the Femsa unit so my new rotor weighs about 2,3 kg.

I agree that the standard dust covers look better but I prefer the protection that neopreen covers offer to the forks. I've tried the rubber 'harmonica' protectors as they where used in that time but they limited the travel of the forks. I'm now fabricating a new rear brake lever with a bit more leverage and waiting for the rear tire, so in a couple of days I will proudly present her to the public

I'm curious how the bushes stood the test of time and abuse... I think broze bushes or needle bearings with grease nippels (to lubricate but also to keep the dirt out) should last very long. If I wanted to improve the rear suspension bearings I would install grease nippels...

True, but mine comes with a new flywheel (+extractor) that's about 1kg lighter. So if you want to save some weight on the rotating mass, make the throttle responce a little bit quicker...

No, but I've just installed this one in my T350 (159) http://www.francetrialclassic.com/en/ignition/1280-bultaco-trial-electronic-ignition.html I've have only started the bike once but it seems to be working fine. I did have to take 2mm of the outer edge of the cranck seal plate to make the ignition base plate seat properly.

It's clear from the two pictures above, that the guy on the bike is trying to avoid a collision with the guy on the ground. That's the reason why he does an endo...

My trial shop advised me to use the standard CR6EH-9 in the summer and when it's below 10°C to use the CR5EH-9. And my 4RT starts and runs always fine. I would not use the CR7EIX-9, unless it's very hot or you are riding a lot at high speeds...A trials bike is no quad...

Some 520 trial chains will look smaller because the outer dimensions are actualy smaller. The roller diameter and the distance between the roller pins is of course the same as a stadard 520 chain. O, X and W-chains could have larger outer dimensions and might not fit through the chain tensioner.

If you've got nothing else, this is a good start:

Spectacular stuff in the video :-) Have fun on your trial bike in the future.

My favorite show:

Here's a funny version by Zappa!

Ni! Ni! Ni! Ni!

A good welder should be able to fix that.

Yep, first the needle in the slider, followed by the plastic cable retainer and than the spring

The knights who say Ni!

Somebody is trying to hurt that guy by throwing trial bikes at him. They should be stopped!

We're almost there: A few minor thigs to do and waiting for a IRC rear tire and we're of to the woods. Great!

Price should be competitive, whatever that means...