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Change the oil (twice when necessary) and use the recommended Elf oil. (Elf HTX740 is a mono-grade 75w, not a multi-grade 75w90)
If this doesn't help You can still change the plates.
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you'll be riding on public roads so your trials bike must be "road legal":
The bike must be insured and registrated. Most participants stick a small color-copy of their registration plate on the rear mud-guard.
You also need a (small) head- and taillight.
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Why does it have to be a 5 when you stop. A 1 is more than enough to keep us on the move.
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I don't know about the fender bolts (made some myself) but a front disc guard costs € 36 in one shop in Europe, thats about $47!
So yes really...I think that these are normal amounts. Not cheap, but normal.
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Is there enough play between the lever and the plunger in the master cylinder?
Does the plunger returns to it's resting position completely?
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No worry's guy's.
Youtube is also for me the only way I can watch the world rounds.
I don't have Motors TV on my cable network and if I try to watch it on my PC, I get more spam than I can ever eat
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1 hour and 26 minutes of stop and hop
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glpRETpj6T8
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On this site:
http://montesa4rt.nl/
Klick on "documentatie", followd by "handleidingen" and then on "2005 Cota 4RT" to download the PDF file.
After that go to page 5-15
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I am going. Yes, that's the way to do it I think.
From what I understand, you only need a medical if you have no licence.
I have no licence but I ticked the box for a one event licence (= €65) so I have to have a medical certificate that allows me to do motorsports.
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Hi Blacky
I'm not sure but as far as I can tell from the entry form, a ACU licence is enough.
Foreigners don't have to pay in advance, we pay on the day of sign in at the event.
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The subscriptions are open:
http://enduro.pagesperso-orange.fr/trial/
I've sent my entry form for the 4day trial in La Creuse to the organisers...
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I understand. I'd rather heare the engine.
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Montesa's don't have a drain bolt on the crank case.
But always close the petcock when you're not riding. (I made a small extension on it from a steel wire to make it easier to open)
When I transported my 315R on the trailer, with the petcock open, it also wouldn't start because it was flooded.
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Get comfortable first, it lasts 29 minutes
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When you're searching for bearings don't forget that some needle bearings have 1 or 2 small seals built in them.
Like this one:
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You can have as much fun on a "heavy" 4-stroke as on a "light" 2-stroke.
Montesa 4RT and Beta Rev4 are both good bikes.
just try a few bikes if you have the opportunity.
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+1
Came across this 2 times and everytime ripping the throttle cable out did the trick
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When the engine revvs out because the outher throttle cable is out of it's seat at the carb (you can't stop the engine with the kill-switch in this case, don't know if the lanyard type work in this case),
you can get the revvs down by pulling out the throttle cable out of the throttle housing on the handle bar.
But you've got to be quick.
I think that when alu plated cylinders are damaged, they always have to be re-plated.
I hope you and your Monty feel better soon.
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I would only use the soapy water to mount the rim strip. The guy in the film says the rim strip is made from a very sticky kind of rubber and amor all has the opposite effect.
They make the rim strip from sticky rubber for a reason. To keep it well in it's place after the soapy water has evaporated I presume.
But I could be wrong...
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As copemech said: the double blip technique is very useful to get up obstacles.
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Brrrrr, seems to be cold out there. Respect.
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Correct. This is what I found on the www:
"silicone sealants release acetic acid (which smells a little like vinegar) as they cure"
(They will cure faster but do not stick very well compared to Neutral cure types
Neutral (meaning neutral alcoxy) silicone sealants release alcohol as they cure, and has almost no smell, but take about 3 times longer to set up than acetic curing sealants. The do have overall a higher "grip" than Acetic types)
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