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Very nice pictures, really sharp and all that stuff. One can recognise everybody very well.
But I would also take some pictures more to the side, or even from the back, and a bit further away, so you can have a better idea off the obstacles they are attacking.
I'm not a great photographer myself, just giving my opinion
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I've got these: Fox PolarPaw, warm enough and not to thick. Bought them in a MX shop.
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Looks nice, have fun with it!
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Sorry, I didn't know you and your Beta where so sensitive.
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Make sure it's suited for wet clutches.
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I hope you mean 14°F and not °C.
And what kind of High tuned sensitive machine do you ride? Adjusting your fuel mixture because it's a bit chilly?
Warm up the engine sufficient before you start making donuts in the snow. When you ride and treat your bike sensible in the cold snow, there's nothing silly about it.
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In the begining it's the same for everyone I think, a bit confusing. But don't be deterred, you'll learn it soon enough.
Ask other riders or the observer when in doubt.
Our club uses ribbon and 4 colors for 5 different classes and I'm from Belgium! So if we can learn it, so can you
By the way, I didn't know this was a 'Bike Specific' problem?
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If there is no hole in the rim, to fasten the "tyre clamp" so the tyre doesn't rotate on the rim, how do you keep the valve from tearing of the tube?
It didn't work in my case anyway...
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Not more than drilling (tiny) holes in it and potentially weaken it that way imo
And what's the value of something you'd rather get rid of?
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Yeah but the studs could eat away the soles of your boots.
I would try to (get someone to) weld on some aluminium studs or ridges on the kickstarter
Or try a larger one from an other model...
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Did I mention that when you have NoTubes tyre sealant in your tyre you won't even notice that you have a puncture? ...
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Could be, but as long as we're having fun...
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I agree with digger144.
But if you want to use tyre sealant try this one: http://www.notubes.com/ It's widely used by mountainbikers to seal tubeless mountainbike tyres.
If you can remove the valve stem, you can simply pour it in, shake your wheel around to distribuate it on the inside and the leak should be sealed.
The 'slime' type sealant leaves a hard to remove mess on the inner tyre and rim. 'Notubes' sealant stays milky and is easy to remove.
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http://www.trialmaaskant.org/#!filmpjes-2/c8ww
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I like this topic. I'm 47 years old and still trying to wheelie like a pro
One thing I learned the hard way:
When you're wheelieing up hill and the ground suddenly becomes horizontal, your rear wheel will try to overtake the front wheel and you fall off your bike
I guess the same thing happens when you roll of a rock on the rear wheel.
As stated before, pulling the clutch-lever and/or tapping the rear brake can avoid a lot of misery when things get out off hand
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A long time ago, my first bike was also a Twinshock
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In my nick of the woods, Beta also have a good reputation, so I think it's mostly a question of taste and riding style...
You can buy a rundown trashed 2012 bike and also a 2006 bike in perfect working order, so...
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Welcome from another aging overweight dude, who refuses give up trying to ride modern trials
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I saw him in action, in Mons, belgium a few months ago: which was nice...
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I have only ridden Michelins, both X11 and X-Light, and I see no reason to try anything else, they're almost perfect.
I had two cuts in the sidewall of my rear X-Light but could fix it with tyre sealant.
Maybe next time back to the X11...
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=OSrlFx1Y9YU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=D9sXOcUo23Q
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Moving pictures of a promising young lad:
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I was there today. Impressive show!
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It's always a good idea, when you get an second hand bike, to dismantle and check the linkage bearings.
They should be greased at least every year.
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