guys

Funny!

You just heat the part where the bolt is screwd in with loctite to about 150°C and you will be able to loosen the bolt with no problem... (By the way, almost every manufacturer uses a locking agent like Loctite on safty parts as the bolts on brakediscs...)

Did you degrease everething properly before applying loctite? I would try loctite 270 (high strength) before I start drilling holes in the shaft (and making it more fragile).

http://www.youtube.c...ilbody89/videos

Maybe these pictures shed some light to your problem. And if you look at the picture below, you will see that at least the outside of the silencer looks standard (could be a titanium copy or something like that of course):

And may I ad another thing in the mix (haaa... ha... ha..... ha) Does anyone use alkylate fuels as I do in my four-stroke? Should run a lot cleaner (and better for humans and the environment), also in two-stroke engines... http://www.acs.total.com/en/fuels/industry-fuels/alkylate-fuel.html

@ copemech: The cuts in my tire came from sharp rocks or something like it and the punctures were very small. Safety Seal http://www.safetyseal.com/index2.htm looks very promising. With other patches there's the problem that, besides the fact that the sidewalls of a trials bike flex a lot, you have to sand down or roughen the area around the puncture. If you do this on the inside of a Michelin X-Light tubeless tire, you will sand away the very thin layer of rubber that makes it air-tight. Also: The problem with other liquid tire sealant products is the fact that they leave a very sticky goo on the inside of your rim which is a bitch to clean of. That's why most tyre specialists don't like the stuff. Stan's Notubes tire sealant stays liquid and doesn't stick to your rim (you can get it off with water). And when it hardens after time, it forms something like little round balls, and doesn't stick to the rim. (No, I'm not sponsered by any of the brands! )

The title says it all I think. I had two cuts in the sidewall of my rear tire and tried to fix it with an inner tube. I did a testrun on my driveway and almost tore off the valve from the inner tube because the tire rotated a bit. Then I removed the tube, cleaned the rim and tire and mounted them. I poured about 10oz (300ml) tire sealant via the valve (removed the valve core) in the tire, inflated it rotated the tire for the sealant to contact the sidewalls and hey presto! tyre is sealed! It should last about 7 months and help prevent future punctures (up to 1/4 inch) Stan's Notubes tire sealant is very wel known by mountainbikers. My son used it on his tubeless mountainbike tyres and never had a flat, although he could be riding with thorns in the tires without him knowing it. If it doesn't hold I'll post it here... Info: http://www.notubes.com/

One does not necesserily need a ACU, FIM or FFM licence. You can get a 'One event licence' which costs 59€ (in 2012). What you do need is a "medical certificate allowing you to take part in motorcycle sport" More info at: http://enduro.pagesperso-orange.fr/trial/#presse

Thanks Coriolis and Chewy . i'm already a lot wiser

I'm considering entering the 4days trial at La Creuse to. It wil be my first time to, so i'd like to know if low class riders as myself can ride there... Thanks Nigel!

Thanks, it's kinda my job to make stuff

Pictures of my home-made chaintensioner (and rear "wave"- brakedisc): http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/gallery/album/118-chain-tensioner-and-wave-brakedisc-montesa-4rt/

That's all very nice, but have you guy's signed the petition? Hmmm?

Michelin.

Lineaway, I can't say with certainty what the problem was with Handemadematt's bike sitting behind my PC. I was only saying that coils do fail sometimes.

Made myself a chaintensioner from a block of Ertalon LFX, a internally lubricated cast nylon... I'll post a picture and let you guy's know how it works out...

Maybe coils do rarely go out, but somtimes they do. On my BMW Boxer the coil had an almost invisable crack and only when the engine was warm, the coil would fail because the engine heat would expand the coil a litlle bit, open the crack a bit and the engine would run bad or stop completely. When I let the engine cool down the coil would work again...

No worry's mate! Check out the fellas awesome website for more great pickies: http://www.photobysergio.fr/index.html Cheers!