"Getting back to the original question, more oil gives more power and less wear, deposits are not an issue, the only potential downside is you spend a bit more on oil.
Cheers
"
Thank you dadof2
It took a long time but someone finaly caught on to what I was hinting to. I asked this question way back at the beginning of the post.
I wrote
"First a question: What burns hotter a gasoline fire or an out and out oil fire? What would a fire fighter say is the hardest one to fight oil or gas?"
The point is oil not only lubricates but also burns hotter and providing more power..............
If I understand your theory correctly, a diesel engine should produce more horsepower than a gasoline engine... hmmm...
But what burns faster? Gasoline or oil? I think that also has a great (or even greater) influence on the combustion. Just thinking out loud...
Btw, I used to run my '98 Cota 315R at 80:1 (as reccomended by Montesa) with no problems.
If you run into a Montesa Cota 315R (2000 or younger for the 4-caliper brake) you should try it. You will love it! bullit proof, easy to ride and the parts are not to expencive.
Hi bud, been their, and felt you pain, with the sump guard,,
you will lucky to replace it with just threading the bolts in bit by bit,, ive tried heating it up till it glowed bright red and bending it,,
squashing it down with the hole family sitting on the bike,,
ratchting down the bike,, and even longer bolts,,
but the best way for me, was to remove swing arm and refit the front bolts partly, and then get two speed clamps or u clamps, and clamp up the guard useing the centre frame to pull up against. use a bit of timber between the clamps and the guard,,
(ps dont poke a sleeping bear and leave well alone next time) hope this helps
Leave well alone??? How are you going to change the oil filter, when the rubber cushion is pressing hard on the flywheel-cover, without removing the sump guard?
When you have to use u-clamps to mount the sump-guard it's high time to get it back in almost original shape with a hydr. press or to get a new one otherwise you might damage the treads in the frame.
Yea,we have put our sons two Beta 80s on ebay & bought him a KTM 85,we gonna follow the crowd & go MX,another youth rider lost to the world of trials & we definately wont be coming back,trials was a minority sport 30yrs ago & if the ACU have there way it still will be in 30yrs time.
If it's a majority sport you're looking for, maybe your kids should try soccer or football.
Only saying, it's not how much people do the sport, it's the ammount of fun you have that counts. Maybe trials was never your sport to begin with.
I don't know what you've already cheked, but this is what I would do:
I would start by replacing and inspecting the old gearbox oil. Be sure to use the correct amount and type of oil.
If the old oil has a lot of debris/gunk in it, or it has been a very long time in use, or if you don't know what type of oil was in the gearbox, I would change the new oil again after one ride to make sure that the gearbox/clutch runs in nice clean oil.
Another thing you can check before opening your gearbox is the fluid in the clutch lever.
Again make sure to use the correct type of fluid and make sure that you bleed the system thoroughly and top up the fluid in clutch lever.
It only makes sense to open the gearbox after you've checked the items above.
I've got a VW Transporter that does 35 mpg. I use it for everyting, don't have an other car and I'm afraid I don't drive it very slow (chip tuned to 130 bhp) so it could be more economical if you want it to be I think.
I've driven other van's at work, Citoën Jumpy, Opel (Vauxhall) Vivaro and Ford Transit and the VW is the only "larger van" that feels and rides almost like a "normal" car.
Could be. I can only comment on the van's I've driven 
Bleeding Brakes
in Sherco
Posted
Pictures say more than words:
To prevent the minor leak (@ 4:53 in the film) I put some teflon tape on the treads of the bleederscrew.