jimw

Great engineering & grip and carburation is always spot on plus unbelievable warranty (2yrs on most parts) - has transformed jsp's riding - just waiting for him to land on his a*** (is a*** really not allowed! Is **** allowed? nope definitely not - not even a first letter) and let the rest of us catch up! Having said that I've got a new bike so mine will be up for sale in a week or so (280 2013 with 2012 head and 2014 gearbox) - PM me if you want any more details. Cheers Jim

Don't ride until it is right - otherwise you're looking at a chronic injury. Or get a 'pain killing injection' and really screw it up. Those moto GP boys are going to be cripples Jim ...Doctor to the stars

Had one for 12 months, loved it and hated it. However unless you are prepared to put some work in on softening the power I wouldn't recommend it to a beginner/new novice. The main problem is that it is very tiring to ride - the suspension is nice ,it is lighter than a mont but can be temperamental . You have to stay on top of it otherwise it will lead you astray - and not in a good way...... I'd go for the Beta - much more forgiving. Cheers Jim

My view for what it's worth is that you should go for the 300. As you say nice and soft and torquey - 280 is a bit more aggressive (although not ridden an '09 - have owned an '09 250 and ridden an '08 300 raga) - I liked the 250 with a flat slide - nice and smooth too but if I were to get another gasser then I'd get a 300 but maybe soften it off with a weight/compression change. Interested in your evo comments - I have 2010 250 and it is very soft off the bottom - really like it. Cheers Jim

Don't shoot the messenger - was told this by a dealer who sells X-lites and X11 s. What is the weight difference? Jim

I am reliably informed that the whilst the rears have a different construction to the X11, the fronts are the same as a standard X11 but just cost more - so I'd stick to an X11 front and X lite rear.. Jim

Thanks Just make sure you record the next 2 hours of programmes as well - Eurosport 2 tend to run a very 'approximate' schedule! Cheers Jim

Been a while since I had one but I think there is a screw on the throttle body Cheers Jim

That looks buggered. On the plus side the new cases are made out of different stuff and aren't supposed to corrode. It's also an easy job. Make sure you use a good quality coolant premix as well. Regards Jim

For all round fun got to be the Sherco BUT it does go wrong quite a bit, is a sod to start & doesn't pick up cleanly off low revs. I do however love mine. The clutch is very smooth ( beta and older Monts are a bit on-off), suspension is lovely and it is quite flickable. Power is not as aggressive as people think but you do have to stay 'on-top' of it otherwise it can get away. However having said that my next bike will be an evo 4t. The Beta is smoother and more reliable but I don't like the front end (tends to like to go straight on but you just need to adapt a bit) or the clutch. (not owned one but have ridden one) Monts feel heavy (esp front end), clutch problem is sorted and later model camshaft changes ('07 I think) have smoothed the power out.Suspension is plush. Very reliable, great build quality.(owned one) Can't go wrong with any of them really but all quite different beasts. Regards Jim

I've sent you an email Jim

Hi Paul, As an aside you haven't got a penchant for medicine, IT and Nobles have you? Regards Jim PS I can assure you that I can be of no practical help whatsoever regarding your question but I am confident the great and good on this site will point you in the right direction.

loads of tyre soap and a yomee tyre beader ( I have seen it done with a long rag but much easier with the beader) - then take valve inner out and get some psi in. Some people try a tie-down strap around the tyre circumference but I don't find it works. regards Jim

I seem to recall the shim depression was 1mm so try making that adjustment and see if the shim sizes make sense. Otherwise if that doesn't work I'll dig out my spare shims and measure them. Jim

Hi, There have been reports of broken tensioner springs - it is self tensioning. I would remove it as it is very straightforward (just take the 2 bolts out - to replace if it is Ok remember to re-tension it before trying to replace otherwise it'll never go back in) and check the spring is OK first of all. Regards Jim