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jimw

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Everything posted by jimw
 
 
  1. http://www.betatrialuk.com/ Regards Jim
  2. Agree got off to a flat start and the lighting wasn't as good as last year especially when riding the sections but did pick up as Dougie got going. The big screen use was terrible - just showing the scores during qualifying and then obscuring a quarter of the picture during the final with the scores - they should have just had full picture coverage of the riding on the screen throughout and put the scores on the high central score board then we could have seen the parts of the sections that were obscured from view. The riding and the sections however were absolutely unbelievable- overall a good night and good to see Bou pushed and Dougie going well.Browny rode better than his score suggests as well so hopefull he will be in the mix when he gains some more experience. Jim I think I've blocked the cars and the countdown out .......must be some sort of post traumatic reponse......
  3. Agree with above: 1. If leaking petrol you can either get lampkins to mod your carb or do the mods as described on this forum ( I didn't need to drill the carb just set the float height correctly and did the tube mods and it was fine) . For carb mod look here http://www.r2wtrials.co.uk/html_files/betacarbsetup.html 2. Milky fluid worse when hot - does sound like you have a water pump seal leak which in turn will make your clutch drag. Betas are known to corrode the water pump housing so you will need to take the cover off and have a look - even if it looks Ok I would take the whole side casing off and replace the water pump seal - if the casing around the water pump looks corroded then you will need a new one All of this is not a big job. The problem with Betas is if you don't use a lot of good quality antifreeze in your coolant the cases rot ( the newer ones are made out of different stuff so are ok) so always use a premixed motocycle coolant. Hope this helps. Jim
  4. jimw

    Rev 3 Fork Oil

    Thought is might be different between legs - see this 2006 manual - seems 60 on right and 120 on L Jim http://metalmarkers.org/sitebuildercontent...rfiles/rev3.pdf
  5. jimw

    Rev 3 Fork Oil

    Can't be 100 % helpful but I do know that the Rev 3 manual quotes compressed gap ( I think it is 120mm on an '07) even though it isn't stated in the manual - if you use this quoted gap with the forks extended you end up with a very solid front end!. Jim
  6. Hi, Just wondered how you sorted the shims issue - I know which way I need to go with them ( tight or slack) but the existing ones have no markings and because of the central depression my micrometer pins are too thick to measure the pad thickness. Did B +B just send you a bunch to try or is there a more scientific method? Regards Jim
  7. Thanks - having trouble getting the rad out - any tips? Starts Ok when hot as long as the idle is right - if it even drops a fraction low it won't start. Jim
  8. Hi chaps, Bit of advice would be welcome. Having scoured the comprehensive (?) manual and Sherco's website plus a speculative search on Google I'm none the wiser about how to get the valve cover off. Do I need to drop the engine out or remove the rad and ancilliaries or is there a trick? Thanks in advance Jim
  9. although with babelfish you can never be entirely sure!
  10. jimw

    2009 Gas Gas

    I've just bought a gasser too Jeff (decided against the Mont for now)- where did you find that Raga -I thought they'd all gone? Last time I had one was 2005 but I remember it wasn't very robust (although that may have been due to me throwing it off things a lot.....no change there then !). Otherwise was very reliable. Seem to remember wheel bearings didn't last long but nothing major.Definitely needs a bit more regular maintenance than the Mont to keep it tip top. The only other thing you'll need for a 300 Raga is a pair of really big arms--by all reports they are rather torquey! Would have liked come to Tong but can't today - let me know next time you're out there though. Cheers Jim
  11. jimw

    4rt To 2t To 4rt

    Hi Borus, Can't really give you a good answer - I'm rather fickle and until I accept it is me that is the problem I will continue to blame it on the bike and assume the grass is always greener! At the time I didn't like the apparent weight, the on-off clutch action, the effort required to hop front and rear, the quite marked engine braking and the fact that once it started spinning you were doomed! I've been through 3 Betas and one Sherco since then and to be fair would probably (and may still do so) continue with Beta except for the carburation which I find troublesome ( I moved to a flat slide which I really like but its requires mucho fiddling -- I had an 06 Gasser and that ran really sweetly but wasn't very well built - in fact if I could put a gasser motor in a beta frame I'd be happy. On the positive side the Mont had excellent build quality and much scope for modification and when I had one I didn't really give it a chance ( still had my Beta so didn't really 'commit'). Might still go for a Beta, or a Gasser or.......... Regards Jim
  12. Ok thanks - presumably I must have seen you around at Horsforth - didn't bust my ribs practicing with you did I ( or are you a different JP)? Just out of interest how come you are thinking of selling? Cheers Jim
  13. Hello all, I had an '05 Mont a couple of years ago but then went the 2 stroke route. I fancy a return and am currently weighing up my options. I can't really find much info about model changes over the years. I would prefer to buy second hand as there are a few changes I would make anyway so the cheaper the starting price the better but if it is better to buy new then I'll do that. Anybody able to tell me what changes were made for each model year ( other than colour ) and whether they think these are worthwhile or not? Thanks in advance. Jim
  14. jimw

    Lovin' The 08

    Just done Dan's clutch mod on my 07 250 rev 3 -- I must say I was a little sceptical but thought I'd give it a go. Well Dan is clearly the man! The difference is fantastic - I also use an '04 clutch master and lever which makes everything a bit more progressive . I also tried my best to get it to slip - big hill climbs in 4th from a standing start but nothing. Go and do it - you won't regret it. Cheers Jim
  15. jimw

    Engine Knocking

    Hi, Does sound like it is running weak - I had similar problem with my beta especially in winter when it runs weaker anyway - went up a pilot jet size and raised the needle 1 notch - sorted it. Just check before you do all that you are using 98 RON fuel and not the 95 crap and that the mix is correct. regards Jim
  16. When I was looking I didn't find one book covers all - if you're looking for 2 stroke there's a good book on villiers engined bikes which pretty much covers all the 2 stroke ones. Not sure about the 4 strokes - might have to go for individual books - depends what you're after really. I found motomerlin ( I found them via ebay) have a good selection. Jim
  17. Thanks - seems I just needed to get used to kicking a bike with a right hand side kickstart - went out yesterday and no probs. Thanks for the feedback. Jim
  18. Hi, Just bought a nice '07 250 - problem is that when I kick it - occasionally it doesn't engage and turn the motor over. Before I whip the cover off is this a common problem ( and if so what's the usual cause and solution) ? Otherwise I must say the chassis and especially the motor are crackers - my beta might be up for sale soon. Ta Jim
  19. I run my beta at 75:1 (1.5%) - which is approx 67ml fully synth per 5L petrol - seems fine at that. Jim Course the above is complete rubbish isn't it - 1.5% doesn't equal 75:1 but if you're going to be pedantic you need to allow for the volume of oil so you'd put 75ml oil in 4925ml petrol - or 76.5ml in 5L - or as I generally spill some and leave some in the measuring jug just forget it .........
  20. I went for the slow action throttle because of two reasons. 1) snatchy clutch (at the initial bite its handy to have a bit more throttle movement to prevent unwanted revs combined with the said snatch clutch) 2) riding with out using the clutch at close to idle speed i can open the throttle with out being caught by unwanted extra power. The picture below is of me, i also fitted a drain pipe to the bottom of the air box some events in my centre can be a little wet in places. I can't say if there was any water in the air box as the bike was dripping wet when i undid the cap but for me the drain pipe is a bit of piece of mind. cliff I heard it was muddy down south but that's ridiculous - I'm staying up here with the rocks! After overcoming an initial mishap overgassing a jap zap at section 1 this weekend I really like the response you get with the Boyson reeds. Incidentally I have fitted an 04 clutch master cyclinder which makes the clutch much more progressive. Jim
  21. hi, I'd agree re throttle and flywheel weight - gassers are also light at the front end and will follow wherever you or rocks point them which is great for experts but not ideal to start will - beta's tend to be a bit more stable as do shercos apparantly (although never tried a sherco). I started with a gasser and changed it quite quickly for a beta - however it turned out I was actually crap and it had nothing to do with the bike!
  22. Popped the reeds and jet in and it certainly makes a significant difference - much better pickup at the bottom end and no bogging. I wondered why you went with a slow action throttle but I might need to go that route as well now. Anyway I'll see how it goes with a proper run out this weekend. Jim
  23. Thanks - might give that a go - where did you source reeds and jet? Ta Jim I bought them from motomerlin (boysens reeds). If my memory serves me right they cost me about
  24. Thanks - might give that a go - where did you source reeds and jet? Ta Jim
  25. Hi Spud, Yup looks good - curious what difference you think the reeds and jet change have made as I've also got an 07 250? Ta Jim
 
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