arnoux

I don't know the power rating, but there was a bigger road going head light available for them. Pretty sure we still have some in stock, that will give you much more p\output than the 'trial" version.

That is not an S3 part number, it is a TRS part number for the low compression insert used in the ONE R.

NO. S3 colour code their inserts: Yellow / Gold = Low Compression Silver / raw aluminium finish = stock compression Red is always the hi Comp variant.

S3 make two different high comp 300 inserts. One is for fitting a short BPMR6A plug as found on RR, R and ONE models, and one that takes the BPR5ES longer plug that is fitted to the GOLD model.

There is an S3 low plug type that takes the BPMR6A plug (stock plug) and fits the standard TRS head cover. https://www.thehellteam.com/trs-cylinder-head-insert

No, TRS still use this Caliper on all the ONE R models. The symptoms sound like you have no freeplay at the master cylinder. Check the actuating pin on the inside of the lever. It MUST have some freeplay and not be applying ANY PRESSURE on the Master Cylinder piston when the lever is in it's relaxed position. Use the jam nut (10mm wrench) to loosen the pin, wind it out until you get some freeplay (and hence allow the opening of the port hole between the pressure line and the reservoir), and then lock it again with the jam nut. Check you now have that little tiny bit of freeplay as you pull the lever in, and it should self bleed, and now allow the caliper pucks to open properly when you release the brakes. If it is still binding check your brake pad wear. As the pads get right down the piston pucks in the caliper can get a bit cocked and may bind in the bore. If this is the case take the brake caliper off the fork leg (leave the hose connected), remove the old pads. - The pads just need to be slid sideways into the centre and they drop out, no need to even touch the spring at the top. Then clean around toe pucks, push them back home, and install new pads. Reinstall caliper, a few pumps of the lever to get the pads against the discs, and you should be good to go.

I am a Reiger importer and service agent in Australia and you are correct that it does need a special tool / fitting to charge the shock (2 pieces actually). You can email me at The Hell team if you want some more information. TRS have only used R16V and Reiger shocks, they have not used Ohlins on any of their models. They use a number of different Reiger models. The ones on the ONE R have adjustable compression and rebound, and use a clevis connection at the lower end. The RR models have hi and low speed compression adjustment, and rebound adjustment, and a clevis connection at the lower end. And the GOLD series use the bigger bodied B40 shock with hi and low speed compression adjustment, rebound adjustment and Hydrastop adjustment, and a spherical bearing connection at the lower end. The Ohlins on the GG has spherical bearing connections both ends, and is a slightly different free length. TRS 265mm, GG 279mm, so not compatible. (at least not without some work and parts replacement). And the Ohlins is no were near as good as the Reiger (even the base model) IMHO.

I can help you with this one, (done heaps of them over the years in our workshop) Remove the Gear Selector Arm spring holding bolt. (In your photo it is the M6 bolt that the curved end of the spring sits against. in a little grooved bush under the bolt head. Part number T305020). Then you can let that Gear selector arm swing to the left. Now you can assemble the drum down onto the shaft. Put it on 180 degrees to the way you are holding it in the second photo. That open cavity faces down, and those two little rollers on the shaft you will probably have to sqeeze in a bit with a little pick or screw driver to get it to go all the way down. Those little rollers then sit in those little cutaways you can see on the inside of the drum. Then rotate the drum until the neutral indent (see the "star point" that has the curved relief in the middle of one of the "points" line up with that Gear selector arm roller you previously looosened). Then put the M6 srew back in so there is that tension on the arm holding that roller in place in that Neutral indent. It is easily achieved using a big phillips head screw driver to pull the spring around. There is a perfect hole under the spring to put the screw driver in , lever the spring around and fit the bush and screw. It is important you set this to Neutral as it makes getting all the gears and forks back onto the shaft possible in the next step.

The part number is 4GG-85540-00 If you internet search by that number you will find them for sale.

The first workshop manual GasGas produced for the TXT trials bikes (2003 until now) was in 2018. Prior to that all you could get was a User Manual and an exploded parts diagram. The 2018 Workshop manual is 95% correct for your bike anyway, so you will be able to figure it out. You can find all the manuals here: GASGAS Legacy manuals

Take the header pipe off and just check the rings and piston skirt through the exhaust port as you rotate the engine. Also make sure the fan is coming on when it should. You can have plenty of coolant but if it gets hot and the fan is not working it will go lean and you could head towards a bind up situation. And I would definitely be swapping oil brands that looks manky!

There is a "faster than fast" option available! TRS sell a modified Domino white tube used on the GOLD TRS models that has a little ramp attached to it, that makes it turn faster than the white tube Fast Domino. It is TRS part number 70129

Main bearing wise make sure LHS bearing hole is aligned with appropriate hole in case when reassembling, (2003 - 2018 bikes) and gear box just take it apart, and put back together with the gear set in Neutral, and it's easy. You'll need a flywheel puller, and a primary drive gear puller (RHS of crank). That's it as far as "special tools".

I google translated that into English and I still have no idea what he is talking about!!!!! "Clutch Lever Flexibility Hello everyone . On my 2004 250 xt I saw that there were no springs but a "plate" spring. I find it a bit harsh. Is there a less tough board? THANKS ."

Just my take on bleeding Trials brakes (and we do a lot of them as I have a bike business) is that you are way better "pulling" the fluid through at the rear bleeder screw, than pushing it through like you are. If you have air behind the caliper pucks pushing fluid in does not clear that. The fluid takes the path of least resistance and goes from the bleeder straight to the reservoir. Much better having the reservoir cap off, fluid level full, and draw the fluid through the system, this then draws out any air bubbles deep in the calliper. I have always found this a much better way to bleed rear brakes. Couple of notes: always make sure you have a little freeplay on the actuating rod, so the piston comes all the way down. That makes a clear path from piston bore to reservoir. Try and use a vacuum bleeder for the best results, but a syringe works also, just not as efficiently. And don't worry about seeing bubbles in your tube from the bleeder. When doing this method you will always get some air draw from around the bleeder. Just pull a full reservoir of fluid through and that should be sufficient.

If the 10th character is M it is a 2021 bike.CHASSIS#EUROPEAN VIN description (GasGas by Torrot).pdf

They are a Torx 100 to remove the bungs.

S3 make a specific one for the Jotagas Hidria Flywheel weight. This is it; https://www.thehellteam.com/s3-flywheel-weights-for-gg-idria-3539

The Braktec Part number is: 853005MO0 The GasGas Part number is: BT460103013CT

Lower of the 3 water pump mount bolts. it has a copper sealing washer on it.

You can actually use a flywheel from a 250/280/300 - it is substantially heavier than the 125 one. Only thing that needs to be done is the spacer removed from the sensor to set it back outboard to accommodate the bigger flywheel, but that is all. Same stator, same cover etc etc. Personally I don't think it "improves" the 125, just makes it doughy, but it's easily done.

Yes it is possible to change. The self retracting side stand uses a shorter spring and a small what I could only describe as an "elongated kidney" shaped piece of flat metal. This changes the pivot point so the stand always want to retract. These two pieces need to be replaced with the earlier spring part number: BT14250GG-CAT-1 It is a longer spring. I am pretty sure one of the cup head bolts that holds the side stand bracket needs to be changed for a button head so it sits flusher as well. This allows the longer spring to rotate across the top of it and then the side stand will stay in the down position when put there. it then must be manually retracted. The folding stand is original on the Euro homologated versions of the bike, and the non returning stand was original on USA spec bikes (sold in USA, Australia, Japan etc etc).

Keihin is a Japanese company, so if you have a Chinese "Keihin" I suspect you have a cheap knock off.

We sell AlpineStars, Forma and Hebo, and I have some experience with Gaerne. I've fitted a lot of boots over the years and at least these days you have a choice of some really well constructed, purpose built boots from a number of quality manufacturers. The Formas have the biggest toe box area of all the boots, and are a good boot for the price. Sole material is good, and the welt stitching is good. Full leather uppers. They are a little heavy as they are genuine leather and are higher than most other brands up the shin. (good for most people). The interior lining is basic but functional. They are made up to size 48 . I have wide feet and a high arch and they are my boot of choice for fit alone. The AStars are good quality construction, but quite a bit more expensive than the Forma. They are shorter in the length of the shin protection. Not quite as wide as the Forma, and a little lower in the arch area than the Forma, but definitely not a narrow boot. They are not 100% leather uppers, there is a fair bit of "vegan" leather as well, but this does make the boot lighter. Very solid buckle closures. They do make up to a EURO 48 as well. Good quality liner that allows the boot to slip on easily. Hebo - there is quite a variety in Hebo boots so a little harder to quantify. They make the "Technical" boot is full grain leather (more robust in my opinion) or synthetic leather. The Synthetic options are lighter, leather heavier. I think if broken in properly the full leather upper moulds to your foot shape better. The "Technical" boot is again quite short. It has a very nice lining and the boot goes on easily. Both the Forma and AStars have a three buckle closure, the Hebo uses a two buckle and "powerStrap" system which is very nice. Medium to wide fit very similar to AlpineStars. Hebo also do a taller boot with BOA closure, the TECH COMP. Very good boot but divides opinions with the BOA system. Very fast to get out of, a bit slower to get into. Great lining and sole, and a bit higher than the Technical model. All again up to size 48. All of them are a welt sole construction, so soles can be replaced, and all of them have replaceable buckles. I'd suggest trying on as many as you can, what one bloke says is brilliant (for his shaped feet), can be absolute poison for the next guy. We all have different shaped feet and expect different things from the boots. Hope that helps a little bit.