arnoux

put the verniers on the rod - it's the same OD. Or try Yamaha dealer part number: 93505-16006 PS. tried responding to your mail, but your email address no worky!

Volcano Please email me at arnoux@thehellteam.com and i will give you the full specs on the ECU upgrade and how to do it. DO not attempt it without the proper Factory instructions. It is a dedicated Scorpa ECU and not a WR unit. It does make a big difference!

There is a photo essay on The Hell Team / Scorpa Australia website about SY250R timing. Scorpa Timing - The Hell Team. The bikes delivered in the 03 - 06 years in Britain had a more retarded timing than the bikes delivered to Australia. They also had a heavier flywheel. Not sure about the current models settings in the UK. The timing mark on the stator plate is stock Yamaha timing or British timing. It can be advanced from this mark for a snappier response. What year is your bike? If it is more than a couple of years old it could be the middle box muffler and final muffler gummed up - this will really choke a two strokes power. When were the rings last done? There is heaps of power on tap with a Scorpa motor if you know how to release it. But you do need to start with a clean, well built system first. Give us some more information if you can. And we can better advise you on a course of action. Arnoux

Fast Throttle - zero to full throttle, 90 degrees of rotation on the throttle tube Slow Throttle - zero to full throttle, 123 degrees of rotation on the throttle tube

check out the tech section on www.thehellteam.com . The Australian Scorpa importer. There is a tech essay with photos on just the subject.

This information is also available on the Scorpa Australia / The Hell Team website.

There is a product called Plastex that works a treat. It comes in different colours, and the blue is not a bad match for Scorpa blue. it can be sanded and painted when dry. Their website is: Plastex You can also get it professionally plastic welded. The base material is a type of Nylon. Paul The Hell Team.

At The Hell Team / Scorpa Australia we are trying to get all the manuals onto our website eventually. We are most of the way there, and i hope to be able to supply all years as soon as possible. Unfortunately it's not "free" to post them as you stated Renegade. i have to pay for the data storage and the bandwidth usage. So everytime you download a manual from our site it does cost us. Saying that it won't stop us trying to give the best support possible. if there is anything that is stumping you don't hesitate to email me and I'll attempt to give you a clear and concise answer, or find one for you. no matter were you are! Arnoux

Renegade Scorpa has always had the manuals available for the current years models available on their website. The bikes have also been supplied new for a number of years with the manuals on CD. There is also the current and a lot of the older manuals available on the extensive Scorpa Australia website www.thehellteam.com There is very comprehensive engine manuals, parts manuals, and user manuals. If you purchased new they should have come with the bike. if you purchased second hand maybe you should speak with the previous owner. Arnoux

Scorpa Factory settings for 1999 Easy: Main : 100 Pilot : 35 Needle : N427GHG Needle Shaft : NC Needle Clip : 2nd clip from the top Airscrew : -3/4 turn Ignition advance PMH : 1.75 Plug: Champion N12YC regards The hell team. Rotax_info.pdf

Check this out: http://www.thehellteam.com/SYF-Clutch.html

14mm

No mate Having ANY Trials bike is far better than no bike at all. Go get it!

Correct - the 07/08 stand is the dog's @#$%^&*'s. Definitely the way to go. Earlier ones are a bit light on, especially for those who kick the bike over while still on the side stand! WetFeet - We have some side stands for 98 Easy if you strike out in the UK. Easy stands will not fit Post 2000 Scorpa's and vica versa. The pins are in a different location. Paul Scorpa Australia / The Hell Team.

14mm

Reasonably common problem, probably due to never having torqued the bolts properly at the factory, or the owner not retorqueing after running in the motor (have you done your cylinder head bolts?......) Easily fixed with a judicious use of exhaust sealant. Remove the header pipe (a cut down allen key makes removal of the left hand side bolt heaps easier). Leave the original gasket in place and apply a full circle of a fine bead of sealant to the exhaust flange. Refit and torque down. Leave it to go off before starting the motor. I like to use the PermaTex High-Temp copper coloured gasket sealant, but there is many brands and types available. It will cure the leak if applied properly.

True about the sharp edges on the edge of the case where the serial numbers are. A good blob of silicone does the trick there. As far as splitting along the weld this was cured from the 07 bikes on. Scorpa welded on a reinforcing piece on the back of the centre box (the section that was prone to split on earlier bikes). it does not seem to be a problem now.

200Y of course!

lots of the plastics can be changed and give one a false representation of age. In regards the SY250 look at the Chassis number stamped on the headstem. The age can be found on the last 6 digits. for example - 600185 is a 2006 model 700185 is a 2007 model 800185 is a 2008 model etc etc The last five digits represent the bike production number. The sixth last digit is the year of manufacture. TheHellTeam.com

In Australia we have aproduct called PLASTEX, it works really well on Scorpa tanks, - I have done a few. The tank can be plastic welded. Sorry i cannot remember the name of the plastic filler weld rod but the professional welder of plastics will cut a thin slice of the material from around the inside of the filler neck, it only needs to be tiny. Then by burning it they can tell which rod to use. Also grind a bit from the inside of the kickstarter, there is a bit of a "lump" on the end of the lever which has caused your crack - zip it off with the linisher or powerfile. Cheers

No problems - check this out!

If it's got spark, and it's in the right place (woodruff key not broken), then I would be checking to see if it's getting fuel. Clean carby and jets , fresh fuel , no kinked or blocked breather pipe, make sure airfilter is clean of any crap, all airfilter and carby joints in place, and clamps tiight (not sucking any extra air) new spark plug properly gapped, etc.

Bo I'll have to stick my two cents worth in and say the BJ clutch plates are good if you are a competent rider, they are comsistant but they GRAB! (it's the dimpling on the plates). If you are a novice or club rider I'd extend the actuating arm like the one we did for YAMFAN. this gives a more feel on clutch take up (over a broader movement ) and it's easier to slip the clutch with more response. I have only installed the BJ plates on one riders bike, but he went back to standard after a few weeks of them in the bike. That's not to say they are not right, just maybe not for everybody. Try the clutch lever or actuating arm extension first would be my advice (for what it's worth)

The seat on the 250cc LongRide kit is a bit on the slim side, but this one for the 125/175/200 range is excellent. You will be able to traverse many miles in comfort. It is not just an afterthought - it is a really good little unit and does not limit the amount you can lay the bike over in competition type trials much either. Riders with the seat in Australia tend to leave it on all the time for free riding and competition. Money well spent.

1. We have not seen,or heard of any 163 Scorpas with any mechanical problems what so ever. It is a very reliable, straight forward motor in a great robust chassis. 2. The seat fits straight on to the Racing model. You do need the seat mounting bolts (3) as well, which replace the existing fender mounting bolts. A two minute job. 3. The LongRide is trad Blue/White/Black. The 163cc is extremely fuel efficient - you could just get the Racing model and a seat if you do not need to be road registered. 4. The 163 did the last Scottish six day no worries, with a trouble free run and a good finish number..........nuff said! Perfect for what you want.