arnoux

As Sargeant Shultz so succinctly put it........I know NOTHING! Arnoux

Jools whats the Jap race spec conversion? Damo Jap spec is same as Australian spec. More advanced timing and lighter flywheel than UK spec models.

Actual displacement of Taddy's bike at the US World Round last year was 300cc's. Barcota - 300cc's .....how do you know this? That's not story i got from Scorpa USA, Scorpa France or the boys at SRT. And it is still not the case. The main reason he was struggling, more than his normal , general ability level, was the bike turned up at 5pm on the thursday night, zero setup time, and he had clutch issues, swapping plates left right and centre. Not finding a suitable clutch pack combination for the slippery conditions.

Narita's bike is a 125cc, so having seen Taddy ride maybe it was the rider rather than the bike that was having trouble in the USA! Listen to the way Narita rides it - he seems to have the technique. Pin the throttle and ride it on the clutch.

"When riding fast down connecting trails, the engine seems to pre-ignite and knock. It only seems to happen at high RPM." "Right now the bike runs fairly crisply, but the off throttle roll-on condition has me thinking I'm too lean on the pilot/slow speed circuit (Or just the timing is way too close to TDC)". These two statements seem to contradict each other - is it a High RPM issue (probably main Jet) or is it the other , or both? For sustained High speed type trail (not Trials) type riding try a 145 / 150 main at least, and time to the standard Yamaha (Scorpa UK spec) mark (not the more advanced Scorpa Racing timing) arnoux

Yes it is silly to have to run race gas - if it is jetted properly you will be able to run pump gas. Is it a genuine LongRide, or a SY250 Racing fitted with a Longride tank/seat combo? If it is the later, you may be running too lean a main jet for Trail riding. What number main jet is fitted? Do not go less than 145, though you will probably need a 150 or more depending on Temp.Altitude etc. There are many main jet sizes available for the TK carb.

Or... if you dont have a jack - put the two rear bolts in loosely (a couple on turns each nut) Then use either a longer bolt on one of the front holes just to pull it in, or a pair of vice grips or G Clamp to pull it in. This way you can get one of the original bolts in the second front hole, then when you get a few turns on that pull out the long bolt or release the vice grips and bung the second original bolt in. No Worries!

Found the flyer for Christian Rayer's 200cc Kit.

DG The 163cc - It's sold in Australia as a TYS200F. It was released well after the 175 (143cc), so to avoid confusion , because it has a larger capacity than the SY175 and TYS175 it was deemed logical to make the nomenclature follow a similar line. Hence TYS200F. Arnoux

The 163cc bike is sold as a TYS200F, and the 143cc is branded as a TYS175F. Christian Rayer does a true 200cc Kit including cams, ignition as well as obviously barrel, piston etc. The crankcase does need to be bored to accept the large liner sleeve though. Apparently it's a bit of a firecracker. I believe Birk's has tried the kit on a bike if you ned first hand information. arnoux

Well you'll have to pull it apart to make that decision! You made need to replace the gasket, or you may just need a squirt of high temp gasket sealant around the matching faces. You will need to remove a bit of the rear part of the exhaust to get the header pipe off. Also a cut down allen key for the left side bolt makes life a bit easier. Jet - Get that from Birk's. Support your Trials dealers! Do you see much trials stuff in your local Yamaha dealer? Also Birkett's may be able to advise what jet size for UK conditions is best. (We are a long way away after all!) Cheers Arnoux

Hey Nitjay Sorry about the broken links on my website (wwwthehellteam.com) - it's now fixed. Can you blokes please let me know if you find any broken stuff like that, so repairs can be carried out Pronto! The leak at the header will definitely affect bike performance, fix that straight away. Jet wise, standard is 145 and it tends to be a little conservative (gotta cover yourself against long sustained high rev trail type riders, or SSDT type situations). In most trial situations you will find a leaner main jet will really help the Yamaha 4gg motor rev much cleaner. Use your head when leaning out main jets, but 140 to 136ish should be OK. You will notice a big improvement. Oh, and they dont have a rev limiter. All the best Arnoux

Back to back, if you are used to BigBore Gasser power try an 07 SY250 Racing as they have substancially more "punch" than an 05. (higher compression, exhaust changes etc). and you will not be dissappointed. Don't put it back to back with a "UK spec" SY, as these have a more retarded ignition setting than the SY Racing, and a heavier flywheel. (great for low traction riding but it does chop the top end a tad.) All mods are easy to acheive on any SY though, so a "UK Spec" is easily converted to "Racing Spec" and visa versa.

You can now get a bigger "LongRide" tank for the SY125/175 TYS125/175 family of bikes. Contact your local Scorpa dealer for details. It can be used with the seat option, and bolts right on.Scorpa TYS LongRide

The tanks are made of a type of nylon, and we (Scorpa Australia) have only seen a couple with cracks, both from massive falls. Both tanks were repaired by plastic welding. You just need to find the correct rods. A lick of paint and both are still in service well after the incidents. Easier than a bent frame any day. arnoux

Scorpa Australia have just upgraded their Tech section of www.thehellteam.com with a heap of new (and not so new) Manuals - Workshop, engine, user, parts lists etc for all Scorpa models. (including Rotax and some Yammy TY stuff.) Cheers arnoux

There is a whole heap of useful Scorpa resources on the Scorpa Australia website's Tech page.Link here.

Scorpa Australia / The hell Team still have a stock of early Scorpa guards.Here.

I think you have missed the boat a bit Motofire, there is a long history in all of the great car and bike manufacturers of "specials" or concept vehicles. It's all about stretching the engineers imagination and ingenuity, and also creating interest in the brand at the motorshows. Most of those projects are never going into production - they are a showpiece for the brand. Get some publicity, get some column inches in the magazines, get some excitment and interest in the design and build areas in the company. I reckon it's a good thing, they are not stagnant and boring, 3 cheers and well done SCORPA.

Scumpy you need to change your bike from the "UK" spec to the "Racing" spec as sold in most other markets. To do this you will need to - Lighten the flywheel - Advance the ignition timing (HERE) - reduce the main jet to a 136 (ish). The standard 145 is pretty conservative and runs a bit rich up top, not letting the bike rev cleanly. (I have run as low as 123 with absolutely no problems) - and if you can be bothered, go the thinner base gasket. Then it will HONK!

Hey Coldcake Sorry to hear of your problem. Scorpa plastics are incredibly good, - the plastic itself is much more resistant to breakage than all the other brands. You can turn the rear mudguard right back on itself without any problem - try that on a few of the other bikes and you'll be up for a new guard. If you bought the bike new, and the problem is not"crash" related, I would be taking it back to the dealer you bought it from, there could be a problem with that bike specifically. If it is a manufacturers fault you'll get new guards! Is the paint cracking, peeling or lifting? Can you post a pic of the damaged areas? I have bought and sold lots of Scorpas in Australia and have never had to warranty any plastics because of finish, or anything else. It is a most unusual sort of a problem. I would definitely follow it up with your dealer. Good luck

Mr Ant man I'd say definetely pre-production model by the riding characteristics, and the sound 'cos the new ones have larger exhaust openings at the final muffler (needed less back pressure apparently - some stalling on engine braking on pre prod models) The sound is now way better! You can tell current model because exhaust openings are asymetrical - round opening on left side, oval on right side (Pre prod model both sides were the same) Heaps of other changes on current model also to carby intake, jetting, port intake, fuel pump etc. The bike runs pretty sweetly now. Must concur about running a bike in properly before fiddling with anything. And always keep copious notes so you can return to a base line or previous setup. We have had one on a dyno and ended up back with the stock 07 jets and 2.5 turns on the mixture for Max power - too easy.

Scorpa recommend Motul 300 V - 10w40 for this model. All Factory specs and manuals / parts lists can be found at Scorpa's Australian website.(The Hell Team.) Here. Hope this helps.

Should be readily available from Birk's (are you in the UK?) or your local Scorpa dealer. At least you will get the right ones!

There is an permanent oil strainer inside the crankcase. User's manuals for this engine are available at Yamaha America online Here