arnoux

Did you index the quadrant gear into the correct position when you put it on the shaft? Here is a reference. Kickstart assembly installation instructions.pdf

BT761053013

Shafts are not "poor quality" they run at crankshaft speed so both should be replaced at the same time as the seal. RULE: if you replace seal do the shaft at the same time. And do not fill radiator right up to the top. There is no "expansion tanks" in this cooling system so leave 8-10mm air gap in the top header tank to allow for that "expansion" as it warms up and it will be fine. Top it all the way up and that few mls will just either blow out the pressure relief valve, or past that worn shaft in your case (which is easier - but it will go out of one or the other)!

I believe the Gas Gas Part number for the cable is: EM10225TT-CLR-1

There is an OBD connection port with a JST plug from 2018 bikes onwards. Black plug, right hand side, near frame rail middle of tank area. Should have a blanking plug in it. You need the Leonelli cable that goes from the JST plug on the bike to the OBD cable on the reader to make it work though.

Hi Sting32 I think this is the image you may have been referencing. It is a little inaccurate because it doesn't show the shift discs engaged in the correct positions, it just shows the drive sequence. You are correct - gears are always in constant mesh, it is the shift discs that are moving and creating the drive sequence. But from memory the 4 to 5th change all 3 disc are moving and need to relocate into the appropriate gears, hence the 'tougher' shift in the Gasser boxes in some gears and not others. Some changes only one or two discs are moving. It is a great gearbox design, just needs to be understood that you can't be hamfisted with it. Saying that a clunky change is understandable knowing the mechanics of it, but it shouldn't be 'grinding' - that sounds like big bits of metal are being turned into small bits of metal!

Nuh sorry mate Australia. But just to give you a heads up you can get Gasser steels in 1.3mm, 1.4mm, 1.5mm, 1.6mm, 1.75mm and 2mm. You should be able to find a UK supplier if necessary.

I've got 1.75mm ones in stock if that helps.

300cc 2015

I'd agree with Dabster, the stators (and the rest of the ignition system) are super reliable on these Gasser. I would be surprised if that was it.

Only difference is graphics they are all Airoh TRR

VIN says built December 2013, so it is a 2014 model. Engine numbers do not match frame numbers with GasGas Bikes.

Yes as Lineaway said, check you are using MT280344001 which is the case gasket from 2003 onwards (hence the 3 in the part number) Not MT280244001 which was the 2002 gasket. (almost the same, but not quite). MT280344001 fits 2003 to 2020

The easiest way is to us the centre bolt as the lever. Undo the centre bolt that holds the kicker onto the kick start shaft a couple of turns (and you will need to juggle the amount of turns out to get the correct amount of leverage), now fold the lever out towards the position you would kick start the bike. The knuckle part of the lever should now come in contact with the centre bolt head, as you keep folding the lever out, it will draw the kickstart knuckle along the shaft and off. Sometime it will need a small tap on the inside of the kick arm to help it break free. Done hundreds of bikes lie this in the workshop - works every time. Just juggle the amount of "out" on that bolt head to get the sweet spot.

2012 Gas Gas TXT 250cc, built in September 2011

Also as Huski mentioned there is two very slightly different piston sizes. The kits look identical but there is a difference. AJP Master cylinder used on Gas Gas bikes up to 2012 used a 9.48mm piston, Gas Gas Part number BT280222220 Then with the introduction of the new AJP unit construction master cylinder the piston size slimmed to 9.38mm Gas Gas Part number BT280222220/2 And then again when Braktec took over the AJP construction it reverted to the earlier 9.48mm piston size. Very confusing! You can usually tell the smaller 9.38mm pistons as they are a raw aluminium finish. The bigger 9.48mm ones are coated and are usually a bronzy to brown finish.

It could be the reservoir port hole is blocked. Do you have some freeplay on the actuating rod? If the piston isn't being allowed to return all the way, then the reservoir port hole is either fully or partially blocked, and you won't be able to bleed it in a month of Sunday! You must have some air gap between the piston and the actuating rod. Same deal on front master cylinders. It is by far the most common problem we see in the workshop with trials bikes. So many people think the actuating pin somehow affect clutch or brake take up point, but it is not for that. It should be set so there is 1mm or so freeplay when in it's relaxed position. Please check that first before moving on. The actuating pin on the rear brake lever can be adjusted for length by undoing the jam nut (10mm open ended wrench) and screwing the rod into the brake lever. until some freeplay is achieved. This allows the piston to go all the way back in the piston port, and opens the bleed port from the reservoir into the system.

Maybe use the contact page of Gas Gas UK, or call or email Gas Gas UK, you can obviously do that as you have filled out the Trials Central Forum post and submitted it. They will be able to help and get the order going whilst you are away. Support your trials businesses so they are still in business when this thing runs it course.

Just knock the piece IN if it is still in the case. Don't Freak out! The piece will fall into the hollow of the gearbox primary shaft, so do not be concerned, it cannot get out into the gearbox proper and cause any damage. The Gearbox breather that you broke is part of an air passage through the hollow main shaft, and through the hollow clutch retaining bolt. This allows the gearbox to remain at atmospheric pressure, without losing gearbox oil. It's a convoluted route, but it works. That little piece you have broken off is too big to pass through the clutch retaining bolt hole, and you are not going to get it out of the breather hole in the left case. The only way to retrieve it is pull the motor, and split the cases. BUT you don't need to do that. It will just rumble around in the little hollow in the primary shaft. Just put a new "L" Shaped breather back in and away you go. (I am a Gas Gas Importer, and have worked on tonnes of these motors, it is not a big deal this one) Even if you took the clutch retaining bolt out, I suspect it would still be too big to come out the threaded hole, so put it on the list of things to do, if you ever have to split the cases.

2M Carbon https://www.2mparts.com/

These bikes are jetted way too rich from standard with the Dellorto PHBG 21 carby Lift the clip on the needle to the top position. (so leaning the needle as much as possible). You will find the pilot jet is size 50 standard. They are much better with 42.5 (45 is OK but still a tad too rich) Main jet should be 100 This works perfectly with Australian fuel 95 Octane.

No better off using gear oil! Change out your water pump seal and shaft.

Yes they still have these two parts on the 2020 bikes, and all previous models. It is still the same part numbers. Your dealer may be out of stock, but they are definitely not obsolete or superseded part numbers.

Jam the butt of your hand over the tail pipe opening. No need to take the glove off that takes to long. On modern 2T's the end of the pipe is never that hot, even if you have only a thin glove on. Try it sometime on your bike so you get the feel of what to do, when it is not in full "Chainsaw mode". If you are not wearing gloves, use the sole of your boot. Stops it in a few seconds. Saved quite a few bikes with this method - it's fast, and it stops them pretty quick if you create a good seal.

DOT4