arnoux

You can change it to 19 parts no problem, The 2018-19 Racing Bellville spring is 1.2mm, yours id 1.5mm. The part number is: MT22020GG-CGI-1 Make sure you get that one and not a 19 CONTACT Spring, as that is still 1.5mm The clutch friction material is also different on the 19 to your 14, it is a kevlar material. It makes a difference to the "bite', but not the softness of the lever pull. The clutch pre-load plate is different as well. 19 is adjustable and has 3 positions to choose from. Part number MT22030GG-CNW-1

Hi Here is the breakdown 1. From the stator you have one yellow wire that branches into 3 female spade connectors. This is power for the regulator, the rectifier, and the headlight. 2. A brown wire with a eye connector - this is earth to frame (usually connected to the coil mount bolt) 3. Two wires bound together - one brown with eye connector (same earth mount as above to coil), and one red and white with female spade connector - to coil. 4. One short black and white with female bullet coming from the back of the plug - this connects to your kill switch. 5. Two wires about 45mm long (one from the plug, one directly from the stator) - first one red /yellow with female bullet connector, and one brown with male bullet connector. These are the MAP switch. Connect to MAP switch, OR leave unconnected for MAP1, or connect together for MAP2. That’s it! cheers

What triple clamps are you using there John?

Huski That is not true Huski. The cylinders are not the same, the cylinder heads are not the same. The base gaskets are not the same, Only some of the pistons and little end bearings are interchangeable. The friction plates in the clutch are the same dimensions, but the steels are not. Very very few parts the same in both motors.

The original actuating was cable when that motor was fitted to the YAMAHA TYZ. (part # 4GG-16380-00) The part was modified at Scorpa to make it work with the Hydraulic slave cylinder. The Cable attachment was removed from the end and a cylinder with a threaded centre was welded on the end. (it then became Scorpa part 3150) As Breagh states they were never that strong and the end often got damaged, cracked or broke off. The original Yamaha part is still available, so I would think the best solution is to re-kit your existing Slave cylinder (it uses the same DOT4 9.5mm piston and seals as lots of other AJP Brake Master Cylinders - it just uses a shorter spring, which you can use from the original cylinder), and weld a new adjuster threaded piece to the end like Scorpa originally did. If you go cable you would need the Yamaha actuating arm anyway, but you would also require the cable and a new lever and perch, so a result that is not as nice as the original.

There is TWO seals. One to seal the coolant from exiting the pump, and the other on the shaft to seal the oil in the case and not contaminate the coolant. Both same size but different part numbers as one is NBR and the other Viton. In the little cavity between the two seals is a small hole that exits just below the water pump. (7 o'clock if you are looking straight at it). This allows coolant or oil to exit if either seal is compromised. As there is no "expansion tank" in the coolant system, I have found if you fill the radiator all the way to the top this can happen. The pressure relief valve on the top of the radiator sometimes gets a bit crusty or blocked a little and won't blow off completely, so the only other way for the system to relieve pressure is blowing past the WP seal and out that little hole. Before changinging seals make sure your coolant level is not right up to the top (I leave about 8 -10 mm gap - about half way up the top tank above the fins) and get that little pressure relief valve out and give it a good clean up. It may be OK.

Yes it can be purchased through your local S3 dealer. S3 supply the complete kit for all TXT's (horizontal and vertical water pipe heads). We have done quite a few of them. Basically it is a 250 piston with a smaller gudgeon pin and matching head and cylinder.

Can I chip in here from a Gas Gas Importers view point. (Australia) Yes they have had some industrial issues with trying to reduce staff levels. The workers rights are very heavily protected in Spain, and a company cannot just dump employees willy nilly. There is very complex processes in the courts that have to be adhered to if any staff levels are reduced. (not a bad thing for the staff). This seems to be the at the crux of all the rumour mills. I believe Gas Gas are being proactive doing this so they don't end up like a few years ago with a workforce that far outweighs it's current production capability and they end up in debt. They are also in the process of moving everything back to the SALT facility just outside Girona. After the fire at the Salt factory the spare parts department was relocated, and some admin went to Torrot headquarters. They are now centralising everything back to the original premises. There was problems with 19 GP supply, as we had the same issue as the USA. We received far less bikes than our original order, but from talking to the factory they are producing bikes at capacity now. The Gas Gas Factory has one production line, so bikes are produced in "batches". There will be a month of EC enduros produced, then the line will be changed out for a few weeks of CONTACTS, then Kids bikes etc etc. So it is not easy for the Factory to alter future schedules if there has been supply issues. And as we would all be aware, a great majority of the parts that go into producing the finished motorcycle are from third party suppliers (Braktec, NG, Morad, S3 etc etc). If they can't get the parts they can't build the bikes. I have had great parts supply this year, there has been much better processes put in place in the back end for us with new parts ordering software, and better technical support, so I am confident that things are OK with Gas Gas. I know I am at the other side of the world from the Factory, but I see no signs of any mularky that these "rumours" speak of from where I am sitting.

Best method I have found is give it a good rev, and as the revs are falling apply pressure to the lever (either up or down depending on if you are in 1st or 2nd) and it will fall into neutral as the revs are "right".

This is the Gas Gas part number: BT13000CT-CSV-1 If you Google that you will find suppliers.

You say "water" but do you mean coolant? This type of corrosion is caused from the coolant sitting in the bottom of the clutch case. When your water pump seal fails it leaks into the side case. As oil floats on water (or coolant in this case , usually some form of ethylene glycol and water) the coolant ends up pooled under the transmission oil in that area. (it's the lowest point). That is partially why there is a glass oil sight, so you can check oil level, but also oil condition. If it goes the slightest bit milky that is usually a sign of contamination. Some coolants will do this when left in the side case, and also play havoc with the friction material on the clutch plates.

It uses an Gas Gas M01619135 exterior O ring (101.32 x 1.78) and a MT300416065 interior O Ring (82.27 x 1.78)

Sorry Bilko but you are wrong on this one. That is absolutely stock, and most cases of that era are quite "rough" like that. I can see how you may think it is damage, but I can assure you it is nothing to be concerned about. Footnote: I have done many many GG engine rebuilds over the last couple of decades, and seen new cases straight from Spain, as I am Gasser importer in Australia. So I have seen enough to know.

Yes the post 2015 water pump is a direct replacement for the earlier 2003 - 2014 units. Fits straight on.

In relation to chat about main bearings above - There is a gallery in the transmission that basically catches oil "thrown" up by the gears rotating. it feeds this transmission oil into a gallery behind the LHS main bearing and between the seal behind the stator. Centrifugal force from the rotating main bearing forces this oil to lubricate the LHS main bearing and ejects it out through the little hole in the outside of the bearing (that lines up with a hole in the case) and back on top of the transmission sump plug. creating a lubricating system for the LHS Main Bearing. If the main bearing oil seal is shot, or if the hole in the bearing is not aligned with the hole in the case, it allows transmission oil to get into the crank and hence the smoke. If a LHS main bearing it is not set properly in the case, and is "rotating" under revs or load, the evacuation hole may be out of alignment "sometimes" and hence forcing tranny oil past the bearing seal, into the crank, and hence the smoke. This is pretty much why Gas Gas stopped using the magnesium cases. The maggy cases would heat up (and hence expand) much quicker than the steel main bearing, and they could "spin" in there housing if revvved hard in that little window between when the cases swelled as heated, and before the bearing caught up. Also check your flywheel key is not sheared. This can allow random ignition timing as the trigger point moves in relation to the crank angle.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-Hwu08MFTAQjuCGlnU-X-5itAWDVVt6N or page 28 of the User Manual.

Looks and sounds like crankshaft main bearing oil seal (LHS)

second that on the crank seals, if there is il coming from the exhaust.

S3 Hardrock Aluminium.

Fans "pull" air from the front of the bike through the radiator, they do not "push" hot air from the engine side through the radiator - so surely you can look at the fan and figure that one out!

No actuating pin or jam nut on that lever.

Are you referring to the Aire (air cooled) or the Delta (water-cooled), both are from 91? The Cylinder head O Rings on the 91 Delta are listed in the original parts book as: M01619115 80mm x 2.62mm and M01619110 125mm x 2.62mm The Aire gasket part number is not listed in the original parts book, but it looks like a paper gasket.

Did you replace the shaft as well as the seal? Usually have to do both at the same time.

TRS supply us a kit with all the homologated parts in it. It comes with the new bikes. It has the bigger headlight, speedo, reflectors, mirrors, proper rear light and number plate hanger etc. Most of the images you see are the "racing" or non homologated version because............. it LOOKS WAY BETTER!