jojjas

Hehe, Santa is in fact his dad Not sure what restrictions there is to watch this clip from other countries but at 3:30 he tries the same obstacle he failed so bad: http://www.svt.se/sport/tillbaka-efter-skrackskadan

Twodays trial completed this weekend on the new 2015 bike. Very much the same as the 2014 305cc I would say but compared to my old 2012 2.9 the difference was huge. I really like the throttle response at bottom end and the brakes and clutch are just lovely compared to the Formula ones that never worked as intended.

Let the unboxing begin!

Here we go! https://www.facebook.com/splatshop/posts/786359474727819 Blue frame and white plastics, looking good! Not sure though what "Optimization of the thermodynamics" means?

The bike of your dreams, copemech? Or nightmare?

Maybe I did a misstake selling my old bike and order a new one mid season. It turned out the 2014 Factory are all sold out (from Sherco warehouse) and same for the original 305cc. Dealers might have bikes leftover but not in my area at least. When is the 2015 range of bikes usually released and when are they usually ready for dispatch from the factory? I was told they are ready any day but I'm not sure if I should believe in that... How about 2015 spec? I haven't seen any disclosures about 2015 spec. What should we expect to be inherited from the 2014 model?

devo8, I must agree on that. I also compared the new 300 to my 2012 290 and found the 300 to be more responsive on throttle.

FYI Due to caviation in the pump, small pieces of the paint in the pump cover got loose on my 2012 ST 2.9 and soon ended up in the outer seal causing leakage. After removing all the paint on the inside of the cover and flushing the system it was all fine again. On later spare parts, the inside of the cover were no longer painted gray.

As I was doing some other work on the rear end I replaced the caliper seals and cleaned the master cylinder. The rear brake got much better, I'm actually able to lock the rear wheel now and making manouvers on rear wheel feels much more secure. One thing I noticed was that the rubber insert of the rear reservoar helps to push oil into the master cylinder if you create a bit of overpreassue when inserting the rubber. The problem seems to be that when I release the pedal, oil will get sucked from the caliper instead of the reservoir. This causes the pedal to not actuate early enough... Front is "good enough" but I will replace the seals in the front caliper as well.. when time allows.

This is what it looks like (sorry, no video now). The more I think of it, the more sure I am that something is wrong with the pistons....

Tonights update: The water method definitely helped a lot but still not as good as it should be. Got some advice from splatshop today on how to bleed the caliper properly, so after re-fitting new piston seals and bleeding I hope that the pistons will move evenly and add that last bit of force needed. I'll keep you updated!

The Formula caliper is a mono-bloc construction, so there are no bolts to tighten. My only conclusion is that the force applied to the pads is more then enough (based on the fact that the caliper is flexing). This would mean there is not enough friction between pads and disc due to contamination or bad caliper alignment. I will give the water cooling method a shot tonight and see what happens. copemech, should I pour water on the rotor AND caliper or just the rotor?

Not sure if I should start a new topic or just hijack this one but I'm having what seems to be exactly the same issue on my 2012 Sherco 2.9 so I start here. I have read both treads by jonny042 (#1, #2) about the Formula brakes but I just can't get what's wrong with my front brake. Just as paul 22 describes the brake is spongy and won't hold my weight, it's worlds apart from my friends -08 gasgas. I feel the pads engages when lever is about half way in but then I can continue to pull it to the the grip. I have disassembled the master cylinder and caliper and cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and also flushed the hose (old oil was grey, almost black!). Putting everything back again I have the same poor brake. I pulled the lever 75% in and locked it with a zip tie over night. Preassure didn't drop, meaning there is no leakage. I'm using galfer pads and have also sandpapered the pads to get good grip. I've cleaned the rotor with isopropyl alcohol. Still no improvement. This video shows what I see when pumping the brake (between "engaged" and almost in to the bar): I find this very interesting. It seems the force that is applied is enough to deflect the caliper but not enough to lock the brake. If I push back the pistons I can see that the two outer pistons (banjo connection side) engages first, then the inner front piston and the last one to engage is the one closest to the bleed valve. Could there still be muck in my caliper causing a pressure drop at the fourth piston? I'm really tired of this now

Run the engine up to temperature so that the oil leaks more easily. Then leave the bike upright without sump plate and you should be able to see where it's dripping. It could be either between engine and transmission case or between transmission case and clutch cover. Try your local dealer for sump guard, ask them to measure thickness before shipping.

Perfect! I think someone also said there will be a training camp for the ladies in the area the days between WTC and TdN... The flight is now booked and I'm really looking forward to see all the top riders live!! Have anyone found an official webpage for this event? i would like to know more about the venue, entrance fee, starting times ans so on. Andy, where did you find the pre-entry list?

Hi there, Me and my wife are thinking of going to Isola but I have really no idea how the place is like, except what I've seen on google maps. What is a Wtc like? Relaxed atmosphere in the village and easy to find hotel and restaurant? Or is it it overcrowded and full booked hotels? The plan is to fly to Nice and rent a car and also do some hiking in the Mercantour area the days after...

Yes, that is of course true. But sometimes one fail and the plate takes the impact. But Sherco has obviously considered this to be a weakness on 2012 bikes since they decided to reinforce it.

I experienced the same thing end of the last season with my 2012 ST 2.9. Oil started to drip and I found that the clutch casing did not align with the neither engine casing nor the clutch cover. I used one convex and one concave wooden block and a vise to press it back to its original shape. I also took away some of the rubber and filled the gap with a piece soft dishrag to keep the muck out. This spring it happen again and thought, this can't be right... So I contacted the dealer and got the information that the 2013 skid plate is reinforced and the rubber is also softer. Obviously Sherco has seen this issue and made a change to 2013. As seen in the picture, the new skid plate is thicker than the old one. The old was 5mm thick and the new one is 6mm. Keep in mind that you need to reduce about 250g of body weight to compensate for the increase weight of the new plate if you're upgrading!

I was a trial rider back in the days, then did not ride any motor bike for several years until two years ago when I bough my enduro. I found out that all riding technique learned in trial was helping me in enduro. Especially in "special tests" sections during enduro races. Where my competitors put their feet down I can concentrate on riding and look forward. Traction is another advantage I have noticed, to know how to handle the clutch to allow for smooth start on slippery surface. Also agree on what Al_Orange says.