thats_a_five

This does not sound like a vacuum problem or idle jet problem - those usually have a bigger effect on idle and slow running. It sounds like the clip that locates the needle in the slide may be at a different height than in the previous slide. Did you swap the needle from the previous slide to the new one? If it is a new needle, it may have a different taper than the old needle.

I have no specific knowledge of your bike, however, with only one wire to the switch, and only light (not a gauge) the sender is most likely an on/off switch. If you disconnect the wire from the switch and connect the wire directly to earth the light should come on (with the key on). Remove the wire from earth and the light should go off. I would suggest you find a GasGas dealer for the part. If no luck with the dealer, remove the switch and look for manufacturer info and part number then find a hydraulics parts distributor and take the switch with you.

Many people here in the USA use automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in the older Gassers. I did and found that when the clutch began to drag it was time to change the ATF. Good news is ATF is pretty cheap. I mentioned above, that a failed water pump seal will allow coolant into the oil. This makes the clutch drag terribly. Check the fluid, if it is milky, there is water in it. There is a kit available which includes the seal and a replacement water pump shaft (and I think the bearing). Years ago when I bought my used '94 JT25, the clutch was very much like a light switch: on or off. People would tell me "just slip the clutch" and I would try my best but I never could make it slip. After bleeding the hydraulics, changing the oil and such, I eventually disassembled the clutch and what Lineaway described is exactly what I found: the friction plates were detached from the metal plates. I think it was this way when I bought it but I did not know about this and thought it was normal. I have no idea what oil the previous owners had used. I put in a new set of plates with the friction material well attached and it transformed the bike. It was now possible to slip the clutch! I rode that clutch for several years with no more problems other than dirty oil causing a little drag. Then it was time to improve the operator. That process is ongoing. Slowly.

In the US Pacific Northwest we get plenty of rain. Much like parts of the UK. The resulting grip depends a lot on the type of soil. The worst is clay which will stick to your tires, fill the treads basically making it like a racing slick on grease. I remember one time, riding on flat ground, moving at about 0.005 mph regardless of engine speed, gear choice or weight distribution. I rolled up to a stick about 1/2" in diameter and could not get the front tire over it! LOL. But, only 2 feet on either side there was fairly good grip. Unfortunately, that was outside the ribbons. Riding in mud will definitely teach you about getting speed when you can and keeping momentum in the areas where there is no grip. This can be very helpful on slippery logs, roots and the occasional patch of ice in winter trials. Yes, we ride all year up here.

There is no "cushion drive" on the TLR Reflex. There are several places in the drive system that could have backlash. The only ones that are really adjustable are the chain tension and the throttle cable free play. The others are generally wear related: slack in all the chain links and pins, wear in the gears, wear in the sprocket to engine shaft. Not adjustable, only solution is replacement of parts.

Many people use ATF in the old gassers. Check the oil for contamination by coolant from a failed water pump seal. Coolant in the oil will look like a milk shake and cause a lot of clutch drag.

That is wonderful news! I hope it is in good condition. I also hope this means that the police know who stole it and are working to find your other bike and then take them to justice. I bet getting back on those pegs was a great feeling for you.

Did you get water in the fuel tank? Drain the tank, and carb and fill with fresh fuel. Check and clean that idle jet again.

Jimmie, What is this "traction" that you speak of?

When you are 30 minutes before the start of an event, in below freezing temp with snow and ice on the ground, and the bike suddenly acts up its hardly time to tear into a carb. The symptoms did not point to a bad plug. It started fine and would run at higher rpm but not idle. So it seemed like a clogged idle jet. Sometimes tweaking the idle screw will clear it, and if not, raising the idle can make the bike at least rideable if not ideal for trials. That's what I meant by "playing with the carb." If we had been at the shop, we would have torn that carb off and gone through it completely with solvent and airlines. Probably twice. That would have not solved the problem at all because it was not a fuel supply problem. With about 5 minutes to go, we put in a new plug and Boom, fixed! I always carry a spare, new plug and tools to change it. You just never know when a plug will fiul and it is one of the easiest things to change on the trail.

It does sound like a clogged carburetor but on 2 strokes I always start with a new spark plug. My buddies 2012 Sherco started acting up at the last trial. After he played around with the carb for about 15 minutes, we switched the plug and it immediately ran perfect.

I got mine on eBay. Predrilled for the advance.

Any good trials bike dealer knows that in some areas, bikes get put up for the winter so things like this may not be noticed for awhile. Also, you have nothing to lose but some time to ask.

Hi Jimmie, I really enjoy riding at Dallesport. I had heard that there would not be any events there this year. Bad info I guess. I'll have to be more aware of what's happening in your club. We have been riding locally almost every weekend. Where we ride it is mostly trees, stumps and slick roots. I really want to get down your way to ride some good rocks. Keep your feet up! Bill

In what way shocking? Good or bad?

It sounds like a lean running condition. If replacing those gaskets does not fix it, clean all the carb [passages very well and check the height of your float bowl.

I see no need to lengthen the swing arm on my TLR200. I did find the bike to be quite top heavy and have lowered the peg mounts (1" down and 1" back) and it helped a lot. I did not steepen the forks because O still use it on the road and did not want it too twitchy. Some people have suggested advancing the cam timing by about 6 degrees to wake up the sleepy motor. I have a new cam sprocket but have not installed it yet so no field report on that. Have fun!

There are 3 trials clubs that you might look into. None in Zillah, but these are the closest. Get on their websites and check the schedules and forums. Puget Sound Trialers in Seattle (PST) Columbia Observed Trials Assoc in Portland (COTA) Inland Northwest Trials Assoc in Spokane. (INTA)

If he is a motocrosser, the problem is not the bike. Fast or slow throttle tube makes no difference if they are whacked wide open by the rider. Here's a suggestion: Set out some markers (beer cans, water bottles, anything) in a straight line and have him weave in and out through them. Trick here is he can only use the clutch to start and stop at the end. Not while turning. Start with big spaces between the markers and gradually move them closer together. He will have to learn to be gentle on the throttle. Another practice is to do figure 8's and gradually make the turns sharper until you are on full lock. I recall Ryan Young saying that a Novice rider should be able to ride a Novice section without touching the clutch.

Having caught my thumb between the stand and swingarm during a trial once, I know just how much that hurts. And how long it takes the black thumbnail to heal. So, when I got my (2005) 4RT and found it had the same design, I removed the stand assembly, cut off the spring mount and rewelded it in a location so the spring holds the stand down when I want and up when I want. Much better!

The repair involves removing the wheel, bars, forks and triple clamps. As DMartinson said, the stem is installed into the bottom triple clamp with a press. The best thing would be to replace the stem (and do the bearings while you are in there). Another choice would be to see if you can find a bottom triple with the stem from on of the bike breakers. Not gonna be cheap.

Good on you for saving the old gal from the crusher. I hope it came with some larges boxes of parts from when it was disassembled.

What does the bottom of the clutch basket look like? If it has ribs in the same location as the grooves on the case, then it is likely missing a thin steel washer as Jon described. If not, then I suspect either a shift pall as described by Jon or part of a starter gear that failed in the past. As Dadof2 said, the case and clutch basket are aluminum and will not stick to a magnet. Did you happen to keep those broken pieces you took off the magnet? A pic of those might help identify where they came from. Meanwhile I would suggest you do regular oil change and close inspection of the drain plug. Metal parts will fall to the bottom of the box but when the bike gets upside down, the parts can fall into places where you really do not want them.

You have a very lucky 12 year old. Have him try a higher gear. That cam make a big difference. Slow throttle may help by requiring more twist for the same throttle slide movement. Can he slip the clutch? Have him squat down more. This lowers the weight and give more grip. Remind him that in low grip situations you usually can go faster by trying to go slow. Less throttle is more grip.

Hi Mark, Keep in mind that capacitors do not like heat so keep it away from the exhaust system. Bill