thats_a_five

Connect a voltmeter to the fan wire connections and run the bike. Watch the voltage as you rev it up. If you have a good strong 12+ volts, it is probably a problem with the fan. If the voltage is low, check for AC voltage before the rectifier. If it is strong, the rectifier is likely the problem. If the voltage before the rectifier is low, it could be a bad connection or the stator. As others have suggested, clean and reconnect all the electrical connections and grounds to be sure it is not just a corrosion problem.

A friend of mine just put some grip heaters on his trials bike. Probably be a good idea to check the wattage requirements and the stator output to be sure it can support the heaters.

There are three different fork mounted tanks. Acerbis makes two sizes: I think they are about 3 liters and 6 liters. Hebo makes (not sure if still in production) a small one that holds about 1 liter. I have used a bicycle water bottle holder, hose clamped onto one fork, with a metal water or gas bottle. I prefer a good strong metal bottle to plastic because they are stronger and have much stronger caps in case of an unplanned contact with a tree or rock.

A good thing to do to get used to riding in scored events is to mark sections in your practice area. Use the same colors as used in an event. Mark out the section, ride it a few times, then move the markers to make it tougher then ride again. I sometimes will use sticks with colored tape wrapped on them or wire survey flags so I can easily move them around. Also, it is important to walk the sections before you ride so you get the visual of where you are supposed to go before you actually ride it. I have walked sections 2 or 3 times to be sure I see the line and make decisions in advance of riding.

The '95 did not have steering stops. The forks simply stop against the frame.

I wear knee pads that include shin guards that reach just below the top of my boots. I also wear a hydration pack on my back (water and cushion for falls) and do not have hard things like tools on my body. I wear elbow pads with wrist guards. Gloves and of course, a good helmet. I must admit that I have used them all to good effect multiple times. Fortunately I have never broken any bones but I sure have gotten lots of bruises. Probably 70% of them were from hard contact with parts of the bike. I ask myself "Can I NOT go to work on Monday because I didn't protect myself over the weekend?" and act accordingly.

Higher bars will have you standing up straighter when you ride. This can reduce the weight on the front end, reducing front grip a little. Because I am 6 feet tall (185cm) I found that about 1" higher bars was much easier on my back because I didn't need to crouch as much. Also, the grips are 1" closer to my body when going up very steep obstacles. I had to adjust my throttle hand a little to get full throttle.

If you have to add risers to fit the fat bars, it may be necessary to add length to things like wires or hoses. If the grips end up in the same location relative to the bike they may not be needed.

It would help if you told what make year and model bike you are asking about.

It sounds like the wires may have burned inside the insulation. This can happen if they get pinched and there is power applied to them. I suggest you cut both wires back past the burn and splice on new wires to reach to the rectifier. I suggest soldering them rather but some of the good inline crimps can work OK. Be sure to wrap them with good electrical insulation tape or heat shrink tubing.

My TY250 is a twin shock so may be different. I found that I had to rebend the lever because it did not have enough travel before hitting the throttle tube. Probably because of cable stretch or bracket flex, but bending the tip away allowed more travel and improved braking. You can see it in the attached pic. No, that was not from a fall, it is an intentional bend.

Spark plugs rarely fail by themselves. Usually only through mechanical damage or years of service eroding the electrodes. What does happen is they stop firing correctly because of either a weak ignition system component or an incorrect fuel mixture, causing the plug to foul. Nelly1's suggestion to replace the points and condenser is a good one. We forget how often we used to need to change them in our cars and bikes because modern equipment has electronic parts. I don't have a TY80 so I do not know, you may need a special puller to remove the flywheel to access them. You may be able to file the points through a hole in the flywheel. If the bike smokes excessively, I would suggest a thorough cleaning and adjustment of the carb also. You can search on-line for pictures on how to "read" spark plugs for 2 strokes. Then when you remove one that does not work you can compare to the pics. Often plugs can simply be cleaned well with solvent and be reused.

I am just wondering if any of you have tried using an ultrasonic cleaning unit to clean carbs? My brother told me he uses one to clean his guns and that they do an amazing job of getting all the little parts very clean. Unfortunately, he lives too far away for me to ask him to do some testing for me.

I don't put bleach in my cereal (may have to try Zippy's idea of beer in the cereal though) but yes, I do use some bleach in the wash with my riding gear. Have not noticed any fading of colors but it does help get out various stains after I grind the dirt in with various body to ground contacts. OI probably should mention that I have multiple sets of gear: old ones for practice and nice new ones for competitions.

HI Jimmie, Barry might be coming. I am still in China returning on the 11th so not gonna work for me. You try Lewissport for the brake line? They usually have pretty good part availability. Other choice take the old one to a good hydraulics shop and they might be able to make one up for you. Keep your feet up.

Jimmie, A Brazilian is a technique used by women to use wax or tape to remove all the hair from their private parts. I bet you are sorry you asked now!

I will plead "no first hand knowledge" about Jimmie's grooming habits. But he did say he spent a lot of time alone in the barn with his bike...... Maybe squeezing his clutch lever or maybe trying the tape trick!

Regular washing powder and a little bleach with lots of warm water works for me. Air dry. One of the benefits of being single. I get to do my own laundry. However I damn well please!

Dang Jimmie, I thought for a minute your wife wanted you to use the tape trick to save money on Brazilians!

Do you mean length or diameter? There is no way a 20 or 22mm diameter plunger will fit in the master cylinder. I think the others are correct about the bore being approximately 9.5 mm diameter. The length of 20 to 22mm makes more sense. Unless the current plunger is completely seized you can probably remove the circlip and plunger and clean up the plunger and bore. It is fairly common for water and dirt to get inside the rubber boot causing rust which affects the operation of the plunger. A good cleaning will often fix most problems. If the rubber seals need to be replaced it might be better to get the rebuild kit that includes the plunger, seal, spring and boot.

I hope you had a good trial today. I have a 10 tooth front sprocket on my TLR200 and it works just fine. I don't use the bike for serious trials, more for gravel roads and short rides on the street. I feel it is still geared to fast for good trials. Here is some info that I probably got off this forum in the past. I don't know who posted it first so unfortunately I can't give proper attribution. "Sprockets & Gear Ratios As delivered from the factory the Reflex came with 44 tooth rear and 13 tooth countershaft giving a 3.38 final reduction ratio. This was "road" gearing and would seem to be about as low a ratio that anyone would want on this low powered machine. My thought would be to use this ratio as a base point and adjust your countershaft tooth count to give you a greater reduction thereby slowing overall speed and making the machine more capable on trails. Here's some common ratios. Maybe some others will chime in with suggestions too. 12t x 44t = 3.66 reduction 11t x 44t = 4.00 reduction (possibly trail riding) 10t x 44t = 4.40 reduction 9t x 44t = 4.88 reduction (trials riders)"

I think you mean the flywheel cover, right? Does the bike run well with the cover off? I would make sure the flywheel is mounted correctly and tight to the shaft to ensure proper spark timing as mentioned by others. I made a thick paper gasket for my '94 to use between the cover and the engine case. This might help give internal clearance. Also be sure the case is not deformed. They do sometimes get cracked or deformed from large impact. The shift lever should not rub the outside. Good that you found the problem and even better, you have learned a lot about the bike in the process. Remember, rubber side down, feet up! And have fun.

Yes, the pedal is designed to be close to the engine to prevent it from hitting things. It is not so much of a problem when jumping over things, but more when getting very close to something or having the pedal hit when the bike falls. A replacement pedal is about US $50 so you don't want it breaking too often.

Search on Youtube. Jim Snell has videos that do an excellent job of showing how to do this and many other repairs on your gasser.

That is the standard pedal for the bike and is the same one for several years. Trust me, you do want it tucked on like that. I did find that I had to sharpen the teeth on mine when I had it to keep my boot from slipping off.