thats_a_five

My 05 4RT does not have a switch on the bars. Not sure what he sold you.

I hear that the start kick lever on the 2013 bikes have been made longer to improve kicking. I know the 2013 kicker will fit the 2012 but not sure about other years. Check with the nearest dealer.

If you heat up the levers with a gas torch they will become soft enough that you can bend the extra length out so it does not hit your other fingers. Be careful - not too hot but hot enough that they bend and not snap. I had to do that on my vintage bikes to get more brake pull and clutch lever travel. They look funny but work very well. I will try to attach a pic of my TY250 so you can see them.

Dave, Removing the tank on the '90's Gassers is pretty easy. Right behind the head bearing there is should be a 1/4 turn fastener that holds the plastic cover on. Remove the fastener, disconnect the fuel line and lift the cover and tank out as an assembly. You will probably be better served to post in the GasGas specific forum then this general one.

I have not read much about what you have done on the fuel system. When it doesn't start, is the plug wet or dry? Have you checked the bowl for water or dirt? Does the tank vent work?

Lean forward and to the outside of the turn more. That will put more weight on the front tire giving better grip.

This is a pretty helpful group if you post info on the troubles you are having with your bike you will get good suggestions. First one: keep the rubber side down and the feet up! Cheers.

I had a JT25 for about 6 years and the motor was generally bulletproof. I did seize a piston but that was my own stupidity of revving it too high while it was still cold. That was an expensive repair because of the nikasil bore. I replaced the jug and piston as a set. I am sure I had a couple hundred hours on it and it rain great. As others have mentioned, keep you eye on the oil because of water pump seal failures and replace it if it gets milky. Other than that, ride it and enjoy.

After having changed seals on my '94 JT25 a few times I had a brain fart. I realized that I had replaced the seals in the same direction as the one I had previously removed. Then I thought about the fact that seals have a pressure side and a no pressure side. The seal in the bike when I bought it was installed wrong side out and, not thinking, I put the new one in the same direction. In the water pump application, the pressure is from the hot water side. The seal should be mounted so the open end of the can is visible from the outside. That way the pressure from the expanding water will squeeze the seal around the shaft. Installed backward the pressure will force the seal away from the shaft allowing water to enter the gearbox. I replaced the seal with a new one in the proper direction. But then I sold the bike so can't really say how long it lasted.

Crank seals leaking? Air filter clogged? Rubber band hidden inside throttle cable?

Help us out here. What year is the bike? What brand and model of carb?

Nope, no arguing here either. We are both just trying to help others which I find to be one of the great things about this forum and trials riders in general. A happy and helpful lot.

The "Edition" model which was made from 1993 to 2002 did have a problem with the water pump seals and shafts wearing. I do not know if this was a problem with unhardened shafts, but I do know I changed the seal 3 times in the 6 years I owned my '94. I do not know about the new model engine that was released as the 2003 "PRO".

Install the lever on the brake hub end, but do not connect the cable yet. Rotate the lever until the brakes begin to touch. If there is a lot of rotation, there may not be enough travel in the cable. So, you may need to index the lever on the spline to take up some of the slack before you connect the cable.

Yes, you need to change that oil using the correct hole! But, if the oil that came out looks milky you also need to replace the water pump seal. This is a common issue with these bikes, the seal wears and water/coolant gets into the transmission oil. Water is not a very good lubricant as evidenced by the dragging clutch. It sounds like the bike had dodgy maintenance before so it would be best to replace the water pump seal and shaft as a set because the shafts also wear in the area of the seal.

How bad is the rust? If only minor pitting you can clean up with steel wool. It will shorten the seal life because of the pitting but may be OK for a while. If the rust is bad, then it is time to replace or rechrome.

Water pump seal you can probably take out the old one, measure it or take it to a bearing / hydraulics company and get a replacement. that is how I got one for my JT25. I think it only cost me about US$3.

450 BHP! Sweet! How tall of a splatter can you do with that!

Looks and sounds good! Regarding the rear brake, I am no expert on this bike but most mechanical linkage brakes are made with splines on the brake levers and shafts. this allows you to mount the lever to a different angle to get more or less brake pressure. The screw adjuster on the brake rod is for fine tuning once you get the major position right.

Stripped spline can be really hard to fix. You might be able to sharpen them with a small triangular file than tighten the clamp bolt very tight to grip the lever onto the shaft. No guarantee this will work for long. If you are handy, there is another possibility. You can cut a keyway into the shaft and a keyway into the lever and use a square woodruff key and still use the clamp bolt. Check Google images for "square woodruff key" for examples. This technique is used to index gears and flywheels because it is very strong. The drawback to this is you lose the ability to adjust the position of the lever to the shaft, so the only adjustment you will have is the knob on the pull shaft near the hub. Best solution is replace the worn parts with good ones.

Yes, too rich will cause excessive smoking.

I am 6' 250# and would suggest a 250 or 280. Starting with a 125 will force you to focus on learning good riding technique, which is a good thing, but you need to use a lot more RPM's to get power for hills or obstacles. In my opinion, the 300's are so much more responsive they are best used by skilled riders who need the maximum power to ride huge obstacles. Too much machine can be very challenging for new riders who have not developed the high level of skill to manage them.

There should be resistance between the HT lead and ground and also from the single pin to ground. The resistance level will be quite different because of the wire sizes and different lengths or wire used inside the coil. There is no diode in a traditional coil. I agree with Sparks 2 that the best way is to swap in a different coil. It does not have to be exactly the same. With the coil disconnected, you should be able to connect your voltmeter to the low tension lead and see the points opening and closing when you kick the bike over.

Short trip for some of the women I have known. Let's not discuss just how many ex-wives I have.

There is high temperature paint that is used on auto headers in rattle cans. Usually a flat black finish but it will hold up with the heat. Question: when you are polishing, are you doing this just by hand or are you using some buffing wheel or pad in a powered tool?