thats_a_five

I assume this is a tubeless tire? The dirt could be causing the leak. Unless you have a good source of high pressure air, I would not suggest trying to take the bead off the rim. My Dunlop takes about 90 psi to get the bead to set. You could let out all the air, then try to pull the tire away from the rim by hand and flush with running water to remove the dirt. If that does not work, you may have to remove the tire, do a thorough cleaning and reinstall. If this is a tube type tire, then you will have to get the tube out and patch it. Good news is that tube type tires are much easier to set the bead.

Tell me you are not wasting good Baileys by using it in your transmission! If you are using plain water in your cooling system, and uncolored oil in the trans, Bailey's colored drain oil probably indicates water. If you use ATF and it has water, it will look like a pink milkshake. If your coolant is colored (usually green or red) and it leaks into the trans, the drain oil will take on those colors. Normal clutch wear will make the oil dark from the tiny particles of clutch fibers. If you put the drain oil in a bottle, the oil and water will gradually separate over a few days.

Chances are that the leaks were actually coming from the spoke nipples and not the bead. Unless, of course, the rubber near the bead was damaged during the installation. A dunk in the water tank will tell you where the leaks are. The rubber strip that you removed is what seals the air from leaking around the spoke nipples. They can be a pain to install and get to seal correctly but that is the right thing to do. The new style have the valve stem molded into the rim strip and are much better than the old 2 piece style. Tube is last resort. If you can not get the bead over the rim, it is because bead is not positioned properly within the inner part of the rim, opposite of where you are levering the tire. Done properly, it takes very little force to get the bead over the rim. A little rubber lube helps. Just say NO to using long screw drivers to change tires. Get some real tire spoons.

Time to rebuild the master cylinder and bleed the system. The seal on the master cylinder does such a good job of keeping the oil inside the system that dirt and rust collect behind the seal. This causes the piston to not move smoothly and usually not return to the fully retracted position. Repair kits are readily available for about US$20. Be sure to clean the bore in the cylinder and the groove for the retaining ring well.

Why do you feel you need to modify the bike when you don't even have it yet? What are you hoping to accomplish with these mods? I hear people saying the lower compression insert or spacer are a big help for kick starting the 300, and also calms down it's aggreesiveness on throttle input The flywheel weight will not help with the starting but will slow down the spin up and slow down of the motor and make it less likely to stall when riding at tick over. Throttle response can also be lowered by going to the slow throttle tube if it has the fast tube.

I checked on ebay and don't see any forks for you. Others on here have mentioned "bike breakers" in the UK. I am afraid I can't help you find a breaker due to me being on the west coast of the US.

Help us out here LumbrJ... I assume you are located on planet earth. Perhaps put a country or continent in your profile? I do see forks coming up on eBay from time to time.

* what appeard to be play on brake side rear wheel bearing, but was play between brake drum and wheel." I am not sure what you mean by this. The brake drum is attached to the wheel by spokes. If there is play between them, you might be able to correct with proper wheel trueing. Or have the wheel restrung if hub and rim are OK. If you mean the brake plate has movement inside the drum, that is probably OK if it is not too bad. If it is excessive, check if there is a missing spacer between the brake plate and the swingarm. There should not be anything flopping around on the bike, well, except the rider! Cheers!

A couple thoughts but no specific recommendation. 1) Be sure the surfaces are super clean before trying to glue. Any oil, particularly silicone oil, will keep most glues from sticking. 2) Most flexible adhesives do not stand up well to gasoline. Perhaps a gasket glue designed for motor assembly gaskets. 3) Try your local auto body shop or detail shop. They have some specialized knowledge and materials that might be the answer. Let us know if you find something good.

MIlky oil will definitely cause lots of clutch drag. If the oil is still milky, there is either water still getting into the oil or there is residual (milky) oil that did not drain completely. Remember that the engine cases have various sections and pockets that will retain liquid when you drain it. When I change my oil, I usually remove the plug, drain the bike vertical, then lean it side to side to try to let those pockets in the cases drain also. Also I rock it front to back on the stand to get as much of the old oil out as possible. One way to confirm if it is just residual oil would be to change the oil, remove the plug so the engine willl not start, select an gear and kick it over a bunch (and I mean a whole lot of kicking) to turn the gears and circulate the new oil with the old oil. If it gets milky, it must be from the mixing, not from a leaking coolant system. If it does not get milky, then reinstall the plug, put the bike in neutral, start it and let it run on the stand until the fan starts. Shut it off, check the oil again. If it is milky, then there is a still a coolant leak into the oil.

FYI, I have a ’94 JT25 so my bike is pretty similar to your friends. The problem sounds like a contaminated fuel condition to me. However, I do not want to jump to conclusions without some additional information or troubleshooting. Did the bike run before he tore it down? If not, how long had it sat before it was last run? If it had run before, then the problem occurred during the rebuild. That narrows down the search. How old is the fuel? Water in the fuel will act exactly as you describe. When the engine stops, remove the plug and smell it. Gas or water? You can easily confirm with a small flame by the wet plug –AWAY from the bike or gas can! Another option would be to drain the fuel into a glass container, let it sit for an hour or so and you should see the water separating to the bottom of the container. If you find water, change to new fuel completely, drain and clean the carb thoroughly. Replace any fuel filters. Even tiny droplets of water can clog jets or kill a spark. If you suspect puddled fuel in the crankcase, remove the plug, turn off or disconnect the fuel line, hold the throttle open and kick it a bunch of times. If there is a lot of fuel, you will get a geyser of fuel in your face, so tie a rag over the top of the cylinder. Once the big quantity is gone, remove the rag and kick until you don’t see fuel vapor coming from the plug hole when you kick it. Reinstall the plug and try to start – with the fuel still OFF. The remaining fuel in the carb should run the bike for a minute or so. Remember that any puddled fuel may still have water so I would advise new fuel anyway. Let us know how you get on.

You did not mention what year the bike is. The TXT and Pro clutches are very different design, with the Pro clutches being more critical on pack height. It does sound like the friction plates are getting worn thin. Pull them out and measure the total height and compare to the specs. If there is still friction material but the pack height is too short it can be adjusted with different thickness of steel plates. ATF usually cauzes clutch drag when it gets dirty, but if it gets "burnt" it can result in slipping. You tell by smelling.

Yes, you can buy the needle and seat. You do not have to buy the whole carb. The seat unscrews from the carb body. While you have things apart and ordering parts, check your floats. There have been reports of the floats absorbing fuel and sinking. This will cause fuel to flow contulously into the carb, flooding the engine. If they are fuel saturated, replace them. Be sure to set your float height correctly as described in the link posted above by BMSeven.

Did you get that clutch working?

I always use sealant on gaskets. Make sure both sealing surfaces are clean and smooth, no left over pieces of gasket, no old sealant, no oil flowing across the sealing surface. One gasket only, sealant on both sides. Let the sealant dry per the instructions before putting any liquid inside the case.

Depending on how the coil is wired, you probably only need one of the tabs scraped to bare metal. WIth an ohm meter you should be able to figure out which one. But, why worry about it, scrape them both to be sure you have a good electrical ground (earth in UK).

Yes, you can repack a silencer with new material. It is not cotton and I would not recommend using cotton because of the fire danger. I do not know how your silencer is assembled but on my Gas Gas, I simply drilled out the 4 rivets that hold the end cap on, cleaned out the old material repacked with fiberglass batting and reassembled the end cap. I choe to use threaded inserts and screws rather than rivets to make it easier to repack in the future.

Hook up that Kill switch before you launch yourself to the moon!

Looking at the pics, your clutch plates were stuck to the fibers pretty securely. Taking them apart was the right thing. I think your durrent problem is probably a case of not getting things together in the right sequence or orientation. When installing, the first plate you put in should have friction material on one side only. The others have friction material on both sides. If my memory is correct, the friction material on that first plate should be facing out - but watch the video to confirm this. Then alternate friction plates and steel plates. I would clean and buff the steel plates lightly with some emery cloth to remove and gunk or rust. The cast pressure plate goes on last. There is a mark on one of the studs that must align with a mark on the pressure plate. There are 6 studs and only one marked so ity is easy to get it clocked right if you look closely. With everything together, you can put a dial indicator on the pressaure plate and work the lever. You should get about .030 inches of movement at the pressure plate when squeezing the clutch lever full in and out. As long as the master cylinder has enough hydraulic volume and pressure to push the pressure plate, that much it should work. And yes, with the cover off the master cylinder, you should see oil returning back into the reservior when you release the clutch lever.

Do you mean the plates are stuck together so that as soon as you start the motor and click it in gear, the bike just drives away? Pulling in the clutch does not seem to disengage? Does the lever feel right when you pull it in? There are 2 main reasons the clutch will not disengage: 1) problem with the hydraulics on the master or slave cylinders, not pushing against the clutch springs. If this is the [problem, you may be able to fix it by bleeding the system or possibly rebuilding the master or slave cylinders. 2) The clutch plates are sticking together even with adequate hydraulic pressure. When the bike sits for a while, the oil squeezes out from between the plates. Then when you pull in the clutch lever, the plates still stick together. If you start the bike and ride it around, you can pull in the clutch and ride around giving it bursts of gas and it may separate the plates and the clutch will start working again. If it does not release after a few tries, you may have to disassemble the clutch and manually separate the plates, then reassemble. I hope you get it working.

Milky transmission oil is almosdt always due to water pump seal failure. Agree completely with Duffers about jetting etc. Jets don't change themselves, but they can get plugged if fuel or water are allowed to sit in them for too long. I recall your pics of lots of gunk in the carb. Check the float height again. Too high will cause flooding. Not sure why a heated plug will help the bike start but i suspect it is helping to atomize the fuel mixture so it will ignite. My thinking is there are 2 problems: 1) flooding at idle due to float height or excess fuel leaking through the choke passage. 2) fuel starvation when opening the throlle due to plugged jets or passages inside the carb. But of course i could be wrong - wouldn't be the first time! Cheers!

Ah, it looks like the formatting of the table got lost when I posted the spec sheet. I hope you can understand the logic: the first number listed in each of the categories is the stock setting. the second number is an alternative and the third is Jim Snells recommendation. Also note that Jim Snell is in USA where the highest octane pump gas we can get is 92.

That is awesome that you got her running again! I think your bike has the Delorto carb. Remember that the "air screw" is actually a fuel screw so turning it out will give more fuel, not more air. Black, wet and sooty plug and piston indicate too rich to me. The bogging I heard in the video does sound like fuel starvation. It could be super rich at idle and starving as you open the throttle and let in more air. Check the float height and needle height as well as the proper jets and fuel screw settings. What fuel - oil mix are you using? Remember that more oil makes the mixture leaner - the opposite of what some people think. I found a spec sheet for the '93 model and have pasted it here. I hope it helps. Keep your chin up. You are so close! 1993 GT25T: THE STOCK JETTING DELIVERED IS GOOD FOR SOME BIKES, BUT OTHERS ARE RICH AND REQUIRE REJETTING. THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION WAS SUPPLIED BY Gas Gas R&D IN SPAIN. STOCK ALTERNATIVE JIM SNELL'S SETTINGS MAIN 95 95 95 (92 OK) PILOT 33 38 38 (36 OK) NEEDLE 2ND CLIP FROM TOP 2ND CLIP FROM TOP TOP CLIP NEEDLE SIZE D36 D36 D36 NEEDLE JET 270 270 268 SLIDE #40 #40 (CUT 2MM) #50 SEE BELOW FLOAT HEIGHT 24MM 27MM 27MM FUEL SCREW 4 TURNS OUT 4 TURNS OUT On Jim's settings NOTE: If you wish to run unleaded Premium gasoline rather than race gas use #95, the #92 main may cause spark knock. TO MODIFY THE 93 GT25T JETTING: (NOTE:GT25T BIKES BUILT AFTER JULY 1993 HAVE THE SLIDE MODIFIED AT THE FACTORY. IF THE #40 STAMPED ON THE INSIDE OF THE SLIDE HAS BEEN DRILLED OUT, THIS IS A FACTORY MODIFIED SLIDE. IF YOU SEE THE #40 STAMPING YOU HAVE THE UNMODIFIED ONE.) CHANGE THE PILOT FROM A #33 TO A #38 OR #36, AND FILE 2mm FROM THE CUTAWAY ON THE AIRBOX SIDE OF THE SLIDE. (OR REPLACE WITH A No.50 SLIDE). BE SURE TO CHAMFER THE EDGES TO PREVENT THE SLIDE FROM STICKING IN THE BARREL OF THE CARBURETOR. SET THE FLOAT HEIGHT TO 27mm (STOCK IS 24mm) TURN THE FUEL SCREW TO 3.5 TO 4 TURNS FROM THE INMOST POSITION. MAKE SURE THAT THE NEEDLE CLIP IS IN THE SECOND SLOT FROM THE TOP. TAKE 2cm FROM THE INSIDE OPENING OF THE AIR BOX LID. (THIS IS TO ALLOW A FREE FLOW OF AIR TO THE CARB) GT25T USED BY Gas Gas UK IN ENGLAND, NOT TESTED BY Gas Gas USA: MAIN: 95 PILOT: 35 NEEDLE: 2ND OR 3RD NEEDLE SIZE: D31 NEEDLE JET: 268 SLIDE: 40 FLOAT HEIGHT: 25mm FUEL SCREW: 3.25 TURNS

I have only broken one brake pedal on my gasser. I found they last a lot longer when I don't try to move large rocks with them. :-{ On one of my other bikes, I took the old broken pedal, and grafted on a folding tip from a shifter. Aluminum pedal with steel folding tip so I had to bolt it rather than weld. It took some cutting, grinding and drilling but it works a treat now.

I had a TY175 for a while. It had a single large coil. I bought a new coil at one point. It was also a single coil. Sounds like someone may have modified yours. OOPS, I missed your note that you were asking about the LT coil. I was speaking of the HT coil. DUH!