thats_a_five

I think that there are 2 topics in this thread. 1) Proper wheelie techniques and 2) rear mudguard attachment. 1) Lee99780 makes a great point that the problem is not gearing, but rather, technique. It does not take large throttle inputs to wheelie a trials bike. His recommendatin to watch the Ryan Young video is right on. The video teaches how to do a wheelie in control using body weight and throtle inputs. 2) While learning to wheelie, it is not uncommon to overdo it, loop the bike and break rear mudguards. Using attachments that will break before the mud guard is a great idea to save costs. Another idea is to simply remove the mudguard when practicing wheelies.

Yes, thermoswitches can change their cut on temp over time. Particulalry if they get overheated. When I test I hook up the wires to a meter, put in a pan of water witha cooking thermmeter and bring the water to a boil. You can tell very easily if it is turning on a a good temp.

Changing the seal is pretty easy. Drain the coolant by removing one of the hoses from the water pump (just to the upper right of the clutch cover). Then remove 2 screws and the pump cover comes off. The impellor just unscrews from the shaft. Pry out the seal - do not drive a screw through it to use as a puller, this will damage the bearing behind the seal) Note which way it was in, then press in a new one. Not sure of yours but my '94 JT25 took a 15x15x7 seal that I got from a bearing shop for only US$5.50. Reinstall the impellor, cover, hose and coolant. Ride on!

Just having some fun with you! I have a ty250 and tlr200 with cable brakes. Sure wish they stopped like my gasser with hydraulics. Have fun!

Your 2010 has cable brakes???? I think you will find that the brakes are hydraulic and there are hoses that go from the master to the slave cylinders, both front and rear. I suggest you read up on bleeding the brakes before you make the change.

I can't help you on finding a clutch in the UK but I can confrim that when the friction material comes off the steel plates, the clutch drags badly and works more like an on/off switch than a clutch. You will be very happy with new clutch plates. If the oil was at all milky I would suggest you to replace the water pump seal while you are in there. No sense in letting water / antifreeze contaminate the new plates.

I took my old hose to an auto parts store and found a preformed heater hose with the same ID and bend. It had long straight sections on both sides of the bend so I cut the middle to the length I needed for the bend then used the long straight sections to replace the other straight hoses on the bike! I think it cost me about $12 for a complete set of new hoses!

Yes, fan failure is fairly common. This can happen from age but is more likely to happen if the bike has been pressure washed a lot. Pressure washing will force dirt and water past the normal seals and cause wear and failure of bearings, etc. I do not recommend pressure washing unless you enjoy replacing parts often. The fan is controlled by a temperature switch that is in line with the upper radiator hose. When the temperture is high the switch closes and the fan gets power. There are really three ways a fan can not work: 1) the switch has failed 2) the fan has failed 3) the wiring has come disconnected so the power is not making a complete circuit. I would start with a simple visual test to look for broken or disconnected wires. To test the temp switch, disconnect the wires from the back of the switch and connect them together. Start the bike and see if the fan is running. If yes, the switch is the problem. If no, then the fan motor is likely the problem. To test the fan motor, disconnect the wires form the motor and connect the fan wires directly to a 12 volt DC source such as a car battery. The fan should start instantly. If yes, then the motor is good so search for a broken or disconnected wire that was not readily visible in the first check. If the motor does not start with direct power it is bad. You may be able to bring it back to life with some WD40 sprayed into the bushings but maybe not. Then it is time to read the sticky at the top of this forum about replacing the motor. Good luck!

MIne spits when I top it off too. I was concerned so I put a little plastic bottle on as an overflow tank for testing. Turns out it would leak out about an ounce then stop. If I top up it repeats. If I leave it alone it doesn't spit anymore. Took off the overflow and now I check it about once a month.

Awesome, I was leaning toward the 12. Thanks Tony!

OK, thanks for the info. You should be able to measure the charge rate with an ammeter in line. Is this happening soon after installing or after some amount of time or number of charges? Could be that the batteries just have a certain life span. If this is happening to your bike and not others, I would check the wiring diagram to see if there is an on-board voltage regulator or zener diode that has failed. Maybe not the best alternative but you might consider getting a cheap light timer to turn the charger on and off hourly to give the batteries time to cool while charging.

Wow, clearly these batteries are overheating. I have no direct knowledge of the Osets so don;t know if you charge them on board or out of the bike. For sure I would make sure they can get good ventilation then charging. Spread them apart for better air. You say your charger is putting out 41 volts. Normal 12 volt chargers run about 13 volts. 3 batteries in series would mean 39 volts. Have you tried charging one at a time with a 12 volt charger? I know that would take a long time but if it works you could make up a charging rig to charge in parallel.

Hello, I picked up a TY250A twin shock a while ago for fun. Picked it up for only US$125. Runs like a dream, needed some TLC but that's part of the fun. I feel that the 14/53 sprockets have it geared too high for trials, OK for trail. I plan to change the front and see that Sunstar makes both 12 and 13 teeth options. What does anyone recommend? I ride Novice to Intermediate. Also, do I need to remove the left side cover to change the sprocket?

Is your fan coming on? Also check your tranny fluid. If it is milky then you are probably pushing water past your pump seal leaving the radiator low - then it overheats.

Its good to hear that my overflow bottle idea gave you the same feeling of relief that it did when I used it on mine. ON the subject of spark arrestors, I found a "Sparky" add-on unit that was for some other bike but was able to do a little hammer and dolly work and it now fits over the entire end of my silencer. I drilled out the rivets on the end cap and replaced them with some threaded inserts that allow me to remove the spark arrestor and / or end cap and reinstall with 4 screws. There is no restriction at all but is US Frest Service approved which is required any time I ride on public land. Sorry I don;t have a picture and I can't easily take one because I am in China and the bike is in USA.

When you have the clutch plates out, look into the clutch basket at the fingers that come toward you. If there is a lot of wear it can cause the clutch plates to not move smoothly. Some guys will grind and polish them for a super smooth surface. Don't get carried away with the ginder and be sure to flush any grinding material or metal dust before reassembly. When I got my '94 JT25 it had horrible clutch drag and the clutch was more like an on-off switch. I found the friction material had come unglued from the plates as Jon described. New plates helped a lot. Other cause of a lot of drag in my clutch is when the trans fluid is dirty. I use ATF - about 700 cc's. IT is relativley easy to drain and refill and it is less expensive than fancy oils that do not perfrom any better in my bike. The difference in clutch drag between dirty and clean fluid is amazing.

Ah, you went to Lost Wages. I hope you left with enough to put some petrol in the bike! I travel a ton internationally and have learned how to not have much jetlag effect. Most people say it is worst flying west to east. Drink extra water to rehydrate. Air is about 10% humidity in the planes. Beautiful weather here in Seattle. Planning to ride on Sunday and build a new section or 2 in a new area we found. I hope your bike goes back together easily. Ride on!

Where did you go for holiday that you got jetlag? I don't have a spec but I would would go more than finger tight. I think I recall Jim Snell having to use a rattle gun to get the nut off on the video so it must have been on there tight. When I put mine together I held the basket with a gloved hand and tightened the nut with a ratchet so it was snugged up tight. Make sure to bend the tabs on the retaining washer to keep it from loosening.

If by "sump bolt rung" you mean the hex socket is stripped, you can take a torx bit a little larger and gently hammer it into the hex socket, then use it to unscrew the bolt. I used mine like that for about a year before I finally bought a new bolt. About the oil, it is simply a gearbox with a wet clutch. Similar to a car automatic transmission. I know people who have driven 100000 miles without changing their transmission oil in their car and riders who ride for a year or more between changes. As long as you are not leaking water into the oil you can safely run for many hours between changes. As the oil gets dirty it will let you know by gradually increasing clutch drag. Don't get me wrong. I do believe in changing oil to keep the gearbox in good condition. I also believe in using a magnetic drain plug to check for internal condition when I do change the oil.

I just did a quick check on eBay and found a listing from "Motobike.Breakers" who currently have a tank for a '96 JTR 160 and a '98 TXT 250. They are in Merthyr Tydfil, United Kingdom. I have no experience or connection with them. If you still have the old tank there are people who can plastic weld cracks and holes. Good luck.

If you are still spitting water, here is an idea. I had the same issue with my (much older) Gasser. I found that if I filled the radiator completely, it would spit a little at a time until the level was not visible in the rad. So, I would refill and it would spit again. I was concerned about the water spitting so I rigged up a small plastic bottle as a temporary overflow tank. What I found was it would spit about 2 oz then stop. If I poured that 2 oz back in the rad, it would spit about 2 oz again. If I did not replace the 2 oz it would not spit. My conclusion is that it was just creating some room for expansion. So I stopped worrying about it and stopped refilling the radiator so often. I have also removed the overflow tank and on the rare occasion when I do top of the radiator, I let it spit the first ride and its all good after that. Problem solved.

Did you get your parts? How is the shifting?

The rivet does need to be peened over with a hammer. Its not difficult to do, just make sure you put it through from the correct direction before you peen it down. I used a small hammer and gradually tapped it down until it mushroomed out nicely. The metal is not too hard so it works pretty easily. I did not use the ball end of the hammer, I used the face and just took my time and it worked great. Remember that the claw does not have to pivot on the rivet. It can be peened tight to the claw.

It sounds like you have found your shifting problem. A bent claw and loose rivet will allow the claw to slip off the drum and not rotate into the gears. Great pic from 60north. That looks exactly like the mechanism on my bike. Look closely at the way the spring hooks to the claw. Mine was an earlier design where the spring went through a small hole in the claw. The one in the pic hooks under the claw and is the new design. If yours is like the pic then you will have no problem. I had to order the new design spring once I learned that mine was still the old style part. Make sure you don't lose the little ball bearing that pushes the clutch plunger out. It can easily roll out and disappear when you are not looking. If you do lose it, it is a .250 inch diameter ball. Also be careful when you put the side cover on to get the water pump gear teeth lined up before you slam it home. You will be feet up soon now!

No, your bike has more than 3 gears I am sure. Be sure to turn either the rear wheel or the main shaft that comes through the gearbox when trying to shift. If the gears are not turning they will not mesh. I believe this transmission shaft is the one the clutch cage slides onto. You should be able to turn this by hand - it might take some force and the machined edges can be sharp so I would suggest wearing good rubber gloves to protect your fingers and give good grip. When you drained the fluid, did you find any metal? I replaced my drain plug wih a magnetic one to monitor any metal in the oil. I am not any sort of expert on Gasser transmissions but if it will not shift it could be bent shift forks, failed bearing, jammed gear teeth, and maybe other things. If you find that you have to split the cases make sure you have the proper flywheel puller before you try that.