smokey125

Slight technicality it will be Nikasil plated not chrome plated. To be honest unless you have some sort of major mechanical failure for the type of use a trials bike gets it's probably not something you will even have to worry about. My 309 has had a lot of use and when it last came apart the bore was hardly marked and measured virtually no wear. Personally I wouldn't go near Langcort had 2 stroke and 4 stroke barrels done by them not had one come back right. I've used RCS in the past for my race barrels and not had any problems. Some of the guys I race with use someone else and recon they do a better job than RCS. I'll find out who it was and post it here.

I think that probably is a coach. Looks like all the right parts for one, rear drum, downgraded suspension. Looks to be in good condition. Might be worth looking under the right hand plastic outer engine cover. If it's the same as the later ones it has the option to change flywheel weight on the generator.

Got given, you lucky lucky .......

The coach is from the same basic family as the 305, 307 and 309 so spares availability is the same as for those. It was a downgraded cheaper version of the 305. Drum rear brake cheaper suspension, not sure if the engine tune was changed in any way. The later coaches sold at the same time as the K-Roo’s and Section’s had bigger pillion seats and were aimed at the same market as the GasGas Pampera etc. These still had the same basic engine and frame as the earlier 305 etc. Have a look at this http://fanticmotor.free.fr/IDENT-TRIAL/Modeles-trials.html

If the link works this was what I had read, http://www.retrotrials.com/page-19-2013-tommi-ahvala-feature-interview.html it was an interview with Tommi Ahvala he is talking about the prototype ali frame that had the problem. It's only from one persons point of view but it's well worth reading the bits about Fantic in his interview.

I'm sure I read somewhere they had problems with the original Ali frames bending hence the early bikes having the steel frame, but that might of only been the factory bikes. Got to admit I really like the look of the Sections but you hardly ever see them second hand and when you do people seems to want far too much for them.

I've noticed that the Montesa seems to hold its value much more than other bikes from the same period. I was looking to get one for a sidecar but when you can get a much newer bike for the same money they aren't worth it. Not from a straight financial point of view. Got to admit I find the perceived value of certain second hand trials bikes really quite strange.

Looks like it's just been fairly roughly machined on the outer surface. Interesting idea, don't really like it as it changes squish and compression, personal opinion is that a regular insert is best as you can maintain the squish gap. How often would you need the ability to change compression ratio like that?

Try putting "nuts and bolts" or "fixings and fastenings" into yell. I'd be amazed if something local didn't come up.

Acerbis in Itilay got back to me about my fuel cap so I asked about the tank as well. The tanks are made of polypropylene he said you can't paint them because they do breath fuel vapour. I did ask how the original colour and stickers were put on but didn't get an answer to that.

If you've got a spare master cylinder try connecting that to the brake line and see if the caliper will bleed properly with a normal master cylinder. If you can get the caliper to work properly you will only have to reconnect the original master cylinder and reverse bleed that.

Damon always was into bikes, he raced bikes before he went car racing, he was a good bike racer. It was him mum that pushed him towards cars as they were safer.

In recent times it has to be Bruce Ansty on the Padgets YZF500 at the classic TT. Sweet sounding, and precise like a surgeon with a scalpel, makes a change from all the axe murders! One of my favourites from the past. Not just a bike but a situation as well. My dad’s, 1967 Ducati single cylinder race bike, running open mega exhaust. At the classic Manx Grand Prix, (before it became the classic TT) when they still used to have morning practices. It was a beautiful clear, dry bright morning. Dawn breaks and the first pair goes. I was in the first few pairs away. By the time I get to Kirk Michael it’s just me, the course and the sound of the bike reverberating off all the buildings! I have never known anything like it before or since. It remains the only time I’ve ever been aware of the atmosphere I’m in while racing! Makes the hairs on the back of my neck stand up just thinking about it! See you can love 2 and 4 strokes!!!

I don't think PTFE would be strong enough. The ones I've made for my race bikes have either been PP, nylon 66 or carbon fibre sheet cut to suit, but that's mainly because I could get off cuts of them from work. In reality anything will do the job but if it's likely to get knocked a bit it's needs to be able to give a bit without deforming permenantly. Personally for a trials bike I would try PP or nylon 66.

I believe that the tanks were made by Acerbis (the cap on by 309 is an Acerbis part) I can’t find anything to say what the tank is made off. I can find reference to polyethylene used for the MX tanks and it says that these can’t be painted, coated or have transfers as the tank breaths vapor through the material! I have found references to PA6 polyamide as used on KTM, Ducati etc road bikes. This is painted, but these are the tanks that have had issues with them deforming. Also only seems to be from 2005 onward. I’ve also seen reference to polyurethane, which you should be able to paint. I did contact Acerbis in the UK through their website to see if they knew what size the fuel cap was for the 309, but as of yet have had no response. I don’t know if that’s because they haven’t received it, they don’t know and can’t be bothered to reply or that they are an importer/distributor only and don’t want to deal with the public. If someone on here is Italian or can write Italian it could be worth contacting them directly in Italy you might get a more helpful answer. My 309 tank appears to be painted as supplied new from Fantic and it has transfers on top of the paint all without bubbling or pealing! Sorry I can’t offer anything more positive. It would be good to know for future reference.

I think it's easiest to visualise it this way 50:1 = 50l fuel to 1l of oil 40:1 = 40l fuel to 1l oil. The bigger the number in the ratio the less oil there is in the fuel. Taking up Spens point, I would normally drain the fuel after each ride although I don't think you would loose enough petrol through evaporation to radically effect the mix ratio I'd rather leave the bike dry. The other thng I do is have separate cans for mixed and unmixed fuel. It helps stop the problems of double mixing and not mixing, both of which I've seen. As for what mix to run, they are supposed to be run at 50:1 a lot of the newer bikes will run at the 70 to 80:1. If you struggle mixing fuel accurately it might be worth investing n one of these. https://www.accu-products.com/accu-products-specialties/accu-mix-fuel-jug.html?page=allI have seen similar in agricultural/horticultrial suppliers which mix a smaller volume of fuel so might be better for trials use.

The air gap will have an effect on the feel of the forks. It acts as a secondary spring, the smaller the gap the stiffer the spring.

Sorry maggar, I got so involved in the description of how to do it I didn’t really highlight the important thing! A squish gap of 0.6mm or above will be safe. I normally set my race engine 0.6-07mm but have run it as low as 0.55mm and not had a clearance issue. I suspect that on a relatively low stress, low revving trials engine you could probably go down to 0.4mm without an issue. Personally I would get the squish gap right and if I felt the engine needed to be softened find another way of achieving that. Squish size, shape and gap have a much bigger effect on overall engine performance than most people realise.

If you’re a bit cunning you can measure the squish without taking the head off! Get a length of solder that’s long enough to have each end close to the bore of the cylinder and have a loop in the middle that fits up the spark plug hole. Fold the ends back to they will fit down the plug hole but still point towards the edge of the bore. Bring the piston up to somewhere near TDC. Carefully feed the solder down the plug hole. As the ends hit the piston they should push out to the edge of the bore. Turn the engine past TDC. Only do this once and don’t take it too far past otherwise you will lose the solder inside the engine. Pull the solder out of the plug hole and the ends will have been squashed you can measure this area to tell you the squish gap size. Unless it is under 0.6mm I wouldn’t worry. This is how I check my two stroke race engines. I normally do it as I build the engine up but it is easier as the head bolts on separately. Pushing the solder down the plug hole does work on a 125cc engine, although it could be a bit more difficult on a bigger engine where the solder would need to be longer.

I suspect that might be down to costs. The older bikes like that now seem to be going for more money than the 2nd/3rd generation watercooled bikes add to that spares are harder to get for them I would guess there not the cheapest option anymore!

Tjp, best thing I could recommend is have a look at yellow pages find a few companies locally and just give them a call, go see them and see who gives you a warm feeling! Thanks axulsuv, I guessed it would be something like that. Might have to try some in my bike.

I remember somebody doing that at one of the junior nationals I rode. Took the AA man all day to get into the car without damaging it!

I've found this an interesting read. In many ways it's exactly what's happened with classic racing. The problem with anything like this is how do you regulate it. You only have to look at pre 65 and twinshock trials to see the problems involved. Personal view is if you want to have a bike like that then get one and just ride it as normal. Get one before the price goes mad enter it one event a month just to remind you how much things have moved on and why/how you got into trials in the first place.

I'm not familiar with the way they mount on your frame, but based on projects I've done before modifying the standard mounts has got to be the easiest way. Most of the work is already done for you.

What's the advantage of the wider footrests? I've seen these mentioned a lot but have never ridden a bike with them.