alanhutchinson

I come from London fine sir so not a prob for me!

I'm trying to keep a foot over it so I can hold the bike on the back wheel when I'm up... Pretty sure the really good riders do this... Or do they move over to the brake when they make it up?

I've had a pretty productive weekend and have gone from pottering up a few small rocks (no larger than 2ft) to learning the clutch control to get me up some stuff around 4ft. My problem is I CANNOT cover the rear brake when doing larger obstacles. At the moment being a bit of a newbie I'm not wearing trials specific boots but should this be that much of an issue? I just end up pushing the pedal down a little bit. It's really frustrating as when I've conquered a nice sized rock I would like to be able to stop and control myself before moving on. Help? Alan.

Hello. Sometimes the bearing code is etched into the seals on either side. Couldn't be sure with this specific bearing but it's worth checking!

Disc brakes would need a bit of frame/fork modification (There's no IS disc mount tabs on either frame OR forks). The forks will take a Magura HS33 but the rear does not have a conventional mountain bike brake mount. IMO your options are: Cheapest option - Premium quality brake cables - Goodridge do some real nice ones, even the higher end Shimano ones are good. Lube em up real good to get them as light as possible. Loosen spring tension on the front V brake and perhaps fit some softer pads. More expensive option - Have someone braze on some 4 bolt magura specific mounts to the rear of the frame http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/rim_brake_spares/magura_brazeon_adaptors_and_bolts/c5p11051.html and purchase a set of hs33s. I have used these for donkeys years on the pedal trials and found that bleeding the whole system through with water/antifreeze (the seals hold this fine and there's not a lot of heat goes through the system so it works brill!) lightens them right up and there's plenty of adjustment on the lever for little hands. Also softer pads for these would be an added bonus so he doesn't have to pull the brake as hard to get it to stop! Most expensive option - Modify the frame/forks to accept a disc brake (looking at the rear of the frame you may be able to manufacture some sort of floating tab that will sit between the wheelnut/rear drop out and then attach to the existing tab for the brake that's on it, otherwise you'd have to weld some mounts on. Then you'd have to change hubs I'd expect the hub spacing on the bike now to be something reasonably standard so you shouldn't have trouble there.

I have the manual you speak of and yeah the diagram is nigh on impossible to read. It's definitely not an earth wire... It's a + and - wire of some sort as the button breaks the circuit. That's all I know!

Thanks very much. All issues sorted. Bled the clutch today and it's working perfectly ! Added a new question to the original post aswell. Killswitch problem!

Okay. I got a spare half an hour this afternoon to get the bike out and set the carb up. I have cleaned it out, set the mixture and idle speed and set the float height. The choke still is not working as it should be... It's definitely an improvement as before it would not run at all with the choke engaged but it does now, although it borks and will not idle, let alone function as a choke should. See video I've posted below.

Thanks for the input. Really appreciate it. I will bleed the clutch after the weekend and see if it makes a difference. With regards to using ATF fluid. That is exactly what I have in it now and seems to work a lot better than whatever was in it before. I shall also have a search for the carb set up guide and report back once I've given it a try. Thanks Alan

Hello and thanks for your fast reply. The pads are not brand. Ew but are recent and are definitely bedded in. I know this because being a numpty let a bit of fluid out of the brake to try and slacken it of a little bit which back fired majorly Thanks! Alan.

Also would like to add. Regarding the rake. They are recent pads.

Hello. I have an 03 rev 3 250 and there are a couple of things puzzling me. The 1st thing is the bike will not start with the choke. It starts and runs beautifully without however as soon as I stick the choke on it borks out and dies. I have had the carb in bits (after one of the floats stuck) and cleaned it all out with carb cleaner but this has made no difference. SORTED! THANKS! Next question is my gears can be very hard to select sometimes when stationary. This doesn't always happen but occasionally it will not change gear at all. I have changed the gearbox oil twice in 2 rides to see if that was the problem. But still the same. ALSO SORTED! Thirdly. My rear brake bites a bit far down the pedal and is a tad spongy. There's definitely a small amount of air in the system and needs bleeding. I tried to bleed it through the conventional way with a piece of pipe on the nipple but this made matters worse. I then bled from the bottom up and it got a bit better but still not brilliant. Is there a technique that's well suited for these? ALSO SORTED! Any help much appreciated. Edit: After sorting the above issues out i decided to take a look at the engine kill switch which has never worked. Turns out there's only one wire connected to it... Has anyone got a wiring diagram for the 03 250 i could take a look at? Or perhaps just a photo of the wires it goes into? The one that it's plugged into at the moment is black and white. I understand i am looking for a fully black wire coming from the regulator (according to a wiring diagram of a different model is this correct?) But i cannot find such a wire.

Hello everybody. I'm Alan and am not really new to the trials scene. I used to ride very lightly 5 or so years ago and have just bought myself a new toy. Hoping to get a little more into it this time and do a bit of travelling with the bike! Talk to you all on here soon! Alan.