scraggydog64

The 250 flywheel weight might fit and you will need the spacer for the flywheel cover. Ring lampkins to find out. You might be able to get a secondhand one as some of the better riders remove tham. The black throttle tube is the slow action one. I would try retarding the ignition before going to the expense of a flywheel weight. Trialsbits do cheap flywheel pullers. I have one at home. If you need to know the size PM me. Regards Scraggydog

A bloke who used to come to our trails had a smallish machine mart compressor with a tank, it also had wheels and handles so it was portable. He runs it up to pressure then puts it in the van. Scragg

Get some knee length goretex boot liners. usually available off Ebay. I have had seal skinz and the boot liners are better. All the waterproof boots I have had have leaked after a couple of months. Regards Scragg

Hello A lad at work has got a 1980 Suzuki TS185 trail bike and the fron pipe rotted through as they do. I am amazed it's lasted this long. 2Moto made a replacement and welded it onto the existing pipe. The bit they made is tube cut into sections and welded to get the bend. I think its a brilliant job. PM me your Email address and i can send a photo if you like. http://www.2moto.co.uk/ Scraggydog

B40RT Dead right. I am not good at explaining these things though I could probably get a job for haynes manuals. Scraggydog

I can't picture the arrangement on a Sherco but I think I had a similar problem on my road bike. The problem being the bush is stuck in the lower fork tube and you can't get behind it to drift or push it out. I tried levering with screw drivers etc. to no avial. What I did do was cut a bit of 10mm wide steel bar marginally bigger than the inside diameter of the fork tube and then rounded both ends so it was a snug fit inside the tube. I then drilled a hole so i could get a bolt through the middle (Part A), the bolt needs to be a relatively slack fit. I also drilled a hole in a longer piece of bar (Part to bridge the top of the fork tube. I put a bolt through part A and lowered it so it sat behing the fork bush so I had hold of the end of the bolt at the top of the fork tube. I then put Part B over the bolt so it bridged the top of the fork tube. Put a nut on and gave it a few turns and the bush came out no problem. I appreciate its had to explain. If your really stuck pm me and I will email you some photos or a pencil sketch. Regards Scragg

Just an update. Following my non running problem the plug was wet and with numerous attempts to start it with the exhaust bung I thought I'd flooded it. On further inspection the following evening I realised it had no spark. Potentially very expensive. Disconnected the kill switch, changed the plug but still no spark. The problem with 4RTs is finding which component is broken. Anyway I studied the manual and noticed it has a tilt sensor. When it is at an angle for a pre determined period it cuts out the engine. I spoke to the very helpfull people at Sandifords (Trials bike importers fall into two categories, brilliant or poor in my opinion.) and the man said tap the tilt sensor with a screwdriver handle. Into the garage, tap tap, started first kick. One very pleased Mont owner. When I wash the bike I lie it on it's side and wash underneath. Thanks for the advice. Really appreciated. Regards Scraggydog.

Could it be the crankshaft oil seal leaking and allowing it to pull in air. This would make it lean at low revs. I had this problem with an 18 month old Sherco. I must have stripped the carb 30 times before I realised. Shame because the 315 is a top bike. Regards Scraggydog

Hello All Bike ran perfectly today. Got home and went through my post trail ritual. Washed the bike and gave it a blow dry with compressed air. It usually starts first or second kick. This time I had 10 or more goes and it wouldn't start. Then I realised I had left the exhaust bung in after washing it! Removed the bung and went through the reset procedure of wide open throttle, three kicks, then closed throttle and tried to restart it. It tried to fire then did not start. Done this a number of times still no joy. Tried a new plug, no joy. Kicked it over a few times with the plug out. Cleaned and replaced plug, a few kicks and fires a time or two but will still not start. When I remove the plug it seems wet and smells of petrol. Had a look in the air filter box too see if she had taken in some water on the last section but dry as a bone. Does anyone out there in 4rt land have any ideas? I have looked at the manual but cannot find any clues as to what the problem might be. To think I used to whinge about carbs on my previous bikes. Any advice would be much appreciated. Scragg

Had no problems with Regina chains. Don't get an IRIS. That lasted 6 trials then snapped. Scragg

Thanks for the advice Gizza5 though you have frightened me. It is generally well in to the trial when the problem happens. The Yorkshire War Cry of "How much" seems quite relevant in this case. I think I'll have about 10 cans of bitter and sit down before I ring Sandiford's for a price to ease the pain. Anyone out there with any cheaper solutions. Thanks again, Scragg

I have recently aquired an 05 4RT. It does not seem to have done loads of work. The first couple of trials went OK and I love the way the bike rides. Third trial, in a section the engine hestitated, gave it some throttle and it picked up again then hesitated and stalled. I had the clutch in so it was under no load. It restarted no problem. Went back to the car changed the plug and business as usual, no problems. Next trial, same problem. I asked a knowledgeable bloke who has had a 4RT for years. All he could suggest was checking the fuel filter. Came home and consulted the (Excelent) manual. It makes reference to the fuel filter but does not seem to tell you where it is unless I have missed it. The fuel filter is not mentioned on the service list. I have removed the pump assembley from the tank and there is no obvious filter. Does anyone know where it is? When I removed the pump assembley there did appear to be about half a teaspoon of water in the last dregs of petrol, could this be the problem. If it's not the filter does anyone out there in 4RT land have any suggestions?? Thanks Scraggydog

My 05 Sherco 290 used to knock a bit. Higher octane fuel helped a lot. Retarding the timing tames them a bit. I would fully retard it and work from there. Moving only 1 - 2mm will make hardly any difference. Those nice people at Trialsbits are the cheapest for flywheel pullers by a long way though you have to know the size you want. Scraggydog

Fitted two sets of Goldfrens into separate 06 Betas. The first set just were just too thick. I released some fluid pushed the pistons right back and they would not allow the disc in. I had to get them changed. Months later my lads BETA needed some rear pads and the previous goldfren incident had slipped by feeble mind. So I ordred another set mail order. Again they would not fit. I ended up filing the metal back plate to get them in. In both instances they were the right pads as I checked the applications on the Goldfren website. They say you learn the hard way. I obviously didn't! They work fine when there in. I had loads of trouble with some Braking pads I had fitted in my Sherco. Tried everything before I threw out the pads and fitted something else. Scragg

To be sure of the size buy a thread gauge from machine mart or screwfix to find out the correct pitch. Measure the diameter of the middle of the flywheel then add the pitch of the thread X 2. Trialsbits.co.uk are the cheapest I've found for flywheel pullers and numerous other bits and the service is usually next day. Though bear mind Christmas postage.

Hi All My 06 250 Rev 3 won't change gear with the engine running when the bike is standing still and finding neutral is almost impossible. When it's moving the gear selection is better but notchy. It's worse than my old Mont 315! When the engine isn't running it changes through the gears no problem and finding neutral is fine. I use ATF. The clutch is ok when used in a section, no dragging. My son has an 06 125 Rev3, this is what I am comparing it to. I was told the steel plates warp, mine looked marginal so I bought a new set and there was no improvement. When you operate the clutch with the cover off you can see the clutch inner move to the extent of its' travel so that seems ok. Any suggestions???? Thanks in advance, Scragg

Hello I have an 06 Rev 3 250. The gear selection is terrible and finding neutral is very hard. I goes through the gears perfectly without the engine running. The clutch works fine in terms of controling the drive. I use Dextron 3 AFT in the gear box. I am assuming it is the clutch. I stripped it down and there are no groves in the basket. I cleaned the steel plates with emery cloth to remove any glaze as this used to work on my old 315 Mont. I eventually replaced the friction plates on the Mont - problem solved. Has anyone had a similar problem with their Beta? If so what did you do? If it is the clutch any advice on where to get one and how much it cost? Thanks in advance. Scraggydog.

Hi I am having some brake bleeding trouble, I have tried all of the methods known to mankind including syringes. I have now resigned myself to the fact I need a brake bleeder, Venhill, Ezi Bleed or similar. Does anyone have any thoughts as to which to buy or what not to buy?. I have four bikes so I don't mind spending a few quid if it will take the hassle out brake bleeding. Thanks in advance, Scragg

Hi I went to put some new front brake pads in my 06 Rev 3. I always move the pistons back and forth to free them off before putting new pads in. Through my own own stupidity one of the pistons came out so I had to bleed the brake. I tried every method as shown in the Ryan Young manual, gravity, pressure, pumping fluid into the nipple using a syringe, drawing air out of the nipple using a syringe. I have bled a few brakes in my time though they often cause problems. The master cylinder didn't seem to pumping much fluid, as I had a spare seal kit I replaced both seals on the plunger. This didn't help. One of the pistons didn't go into the caliper didn't go in square and I thought I might have damaged a seal. So

I apologise if this has been covered in past posts as Beta carbs appear to a bit of hot topic but I could not see any reference to jetting. I have just bought an 06 250 and used it for the first time on sunday. It seems to run a bit rich. It is fitted with the statndard Mikuni carb. It starts with no choke and when the engine is warm has to be revved to clean it out before each section or it hesitates when you open the throttle. The hesitation's not that bad buts its enough to cause problems before a climb. It has a 30 pilot jet, 150 main jet fitted which is standard, the needle clip is in middle (3 out of 5) groove, the air screws is 1 1/2 turns out. Has anyone altered the jetting on theirs to improve this? Also it's a bit loud and the silencer packing is all but gone. Would you buy a silencer packing sleeve off Beta or use the loose stuff? The reason I ask is I have a pack of the loose stuff already. Thanks in advance. Scragg

I got about 50 trials out of my original Sherco chain and only 6 easy route trials out of an Iris chain before it snapped. It was a blessing it didn't damage the crank cases. I was having to adjust it half way through each trial. The suppliers via my local dealer took it back to check it though never bothered to tell us what the problem was. I will never buy another Iris chain. I have a Regina chain fitted and it seems to be wearing well. Whatever chain you decide on get a spare plit link from the same manufacturer. Believe it or not not all 520 chains are the same. The 520 is the pitch between the pins. Some chains differ in the width of the link and the diameter of the pin. Some split links will fit other chains but do check. You don't want to find out on the moors in winter that you're spare split link doesn't fit! Scragg

I tried every type of oil and some were better than others though the problem was still there. An off road mechanic told me the steel plates get glazed and stick to the friction plates like two pieces of wet glass for want of a better description. He said to sand the steel plates with a fairly course emry cloth. I did it and it works but only lasts 3 - 4 trials. I then fitted a Haven clutch kit and it was a revelation. The bike was 100% better.

I would go to a bearing factor, I got my main bearings and seals at Force Seven Bearings, Gateshead. They could not do the water pump drive seals though. I would use anyy reputable brand of bearings. The "special" Sherco bearings only lasted 12 months of relativey easy use in my bike!

Grease the suspension and steering head bearings as I don't think the Sherco factory possess a single pot of grease. Also remove every bolt and put some copper slip on the threads. The quality of the fixings is appaling, I think they make them out of fudge, within in a few months they will sieze slightly, when you come to remove them the inside of the allen bolts will round. I hope I am not being unfair to Sherco build quality but this was the case with my 05. Then again things may have changed! Youre right though there a nice bike to ride. Regards Scraggydog

I agree, don't buy an IRIS chain. I try to look after my chains and sprockets. The original chain and sprockets on my 290 had done about 40 - 50 trials when I replaced them. The IRIS chain lasted 6 easy club trials of no significant distance then it snapped. I was even having adjust the chain part way through the trial! The dealer passed the chain back to rep that supplied them thinking it might be faulty. But they never bothered to find out. I was a bit miffed to say the least. Its not just the expense of the chain. Snapping chains can damage crank cases. The regina chain I fitted is doing ok but with hindsight I'd get a renthal.