aussiechris

As Steve said, the rubber strips are stuck to the tank. The attached photos might help in placement of the strips. Sorry for the quality, they were taken a while ago with an old phone before I re-did my tank. Chris.

According to the parts book for your 2014 Racing 300, it is the same part number BT27714009 which is for the standard non-sealed bearing. So yes, all the above should still apply to your bike. You need the following parts to fix the dog-bone links... BT27714009 Suspension link bearing x 4 C230001 15x21x2 Oil Seal x 8 BT27712005 Bushing 10mm x 2 BT27712014 Bushing 8mm x 2 or for the sealed version... BT27714009x20 Linkage bearing HK2015-2RS x 4 BT27712005 Bushing 10mm x 2 BT27712014 Bushing 8mm x 2 The part number for the HK2015-2RS bearing is one my local dealer has now created and may not apply in your region. Just order from a bearing shop.

I've heard differing opinions on this... Anything from 0.009" to 0.015". However the brand new rings for my 300 already had 0.011" end gap so I left them at that as it's a bit had to file metal back on!

Just an update on one of two solutions to the headlight-on starting issue My 2015 Repsol starts first kick hot or cold 99% of the time. With the headlight installed it needs 2 or 3 kicks which is very annoying. This is with the small 20W off-road headlight as supplied with the bike. So I decided to modify the wiring to make it work like the on-road version with the power relay to supply power to the light after the engine starts. And it works like magic. It starts first kick day or night. The light comes on about a second after the engine starts (the ECU controlling the relay). I still think the stator spacer is a good move and Ill be doing that as well. Anyway, heres how to do the headlight wiring without butchering anything The original headlight connector is a Sumitomo HM-090 series. These are nice fully sealed. Where from? Well I dont want to fall foul of the admin here but if you google "cycle terminal" you will find the supplier I used and hes great genuine connectors, cheap prices, cheap and fast postage. You need the 4 pin male half only (Male HM090-4). Get a couple of HM Connector Cavity Plugs (Plug 090) while youre there or remove one from the original connector to seal the unused port. You also need a 12V micro relay (MR20-C-5) (no mounting bracket) from the same guy. I managed to install the relay on the bike inside the vinyl boot along with the headlight connector (under the fuel tank). The street version mounts the relay behind the headlight which would make sense but then you will require 3 wires in the headlight loom rather than two. Once you have the bits, wire it up as per the ED/2E version wiring diagram in the manual. You need 12V power from the red wire in the harness (Sumitomo connector) to go to two places on the relay (bat terminal #30 and coil terminal #86). Run the trigger wire from the yellow/green wire in the harness connector to the relay coil (terminal #85). Then for the headlight: run a red wire from the output of the relay (terminal #87) and an earth wire from the Sumitomo connector (green harness wire). The relay terminal pinout diagram is available from the cycle terminal web site but Ill post it here if I can get permission. This is what my finished wiring looks like the original on the left (with a Tamiya 2 pin connector for the headlight because I remove it during the day) and the power relay setup on the right. It adds a couple of grams but works a treat. Edit: Added this wiring diagram...

Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but since Ive discovered what some of the 4RT electrical connectors are, I thought Id share this info with anyone wanting to remove their bank angle sensor without butchering anything and allowing it to be re-fitted (for what reason I dont know). As mentioned above, if youve fitted a lanyard kill switch you can save 110 grams by removing the bank angle sensor. But you need to link the earth and sense wires together. The original connector is a Sumitomo HM-090 series. These are nice fully sealed connectors if not a little on the large side. Where can you get them? Well I dont want to fall foul of the admin here but if you google "cycle terminal" you will find the supplier I used and hes great genuine connectors, cheap prices, cheap and fast postage. For linking out the B/A sensor, you need the 3 pin male half only (Male HM090-3) which comes with terminals and seals. You also need one HM Connector Cavity Plug (Plug 090) to seal the unused centre pin. Simply wire the two outer terminals together as shown below. Then remove the B/A sensor from above the rectifier/regulator. You need to remove the air box first. The mounting screws are 7mm hex head. The connector is under the large vinyl boot above the front sprocket.

As Steve said - check with regulator and rectifier unplugged. But don't forget - the 12 volts at the yellow wire is AC. Make sure your multimeter is set to AC otherwise it will read zero. If you disconnect the regulator, the voltage on the yellow wire should go quite high (maybe up to 75 volts when you rev it). It's difficult to check for a short (to ground) because the stator winding should only read about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms to ground anyway. So it would normally look like it's shorted. Most multimeter leads will have that sort of resistance themselves so it's not easy to check. Check all the grounds are connected and clean. I remember a mate wired in a new kill switch on his brand new Montesa once and after a short ride it looked like "Puffing Billy" (the steam train) as the fan wasn't running because he'd managed to disconnect one of the earth lugs. Good luck with it.

I've just been out and re-weighed both bikes (full of fuel). Gas Gas comes in at 68.6kg (was 64 back in 2011 on different scales). My Gas Gas is a Raga model which is almost 2kg lighter than standard. The 4RT today shows 78.6Kg (was around 80kg the other day but I've since installed an old bald tyre, removed headlight, front disk cover and fuel vent plumbing). So the difference is 10kg and apologies to Montesa and I've corrected the original post. The 4RT still seems easier and nicer to ride despite the weight penalty. Chris.

Yes Mags, that is my block of land but it’s a bit too flat for trials. I finally got out for a solid practice ride last weekend and got that lovely bike (Repsol pictured above) all muddy. My original intention for buying the 4RT was to have a fun bike that could do the occasional easy section but mainly just ride some trails. It was never going to be competitive against my 300 Gasser especially being around 16kg* heavier and a lot wider. How wrong I was! This thing is fantastic. I rode all of my usual practice sections and cleared them easier than ever before and with less effort. And that was after installing a well worn rear tyre. The 4RT is so easy to ride, I just love it. Can’t wait to get out again this weekend. * Edit - Apologies, it's actually about 10kg heavier - reweighed the Gasser and it's gained weight (like me).

This arrived the other day...

I'm guessing they sold you the 3E (offroad/racing/non-homolated) model rather than the ED street model. It's not just the lights there are a lot of other differences. The street model will have a catalytic converter and O2 sensor in the header pipe (along with restricted intake and exhaust). With the lights plugged in, it will also be running an emissions compliant map. Also, the fan relay is mounted behind the headlight whereas the racing model moves that to under the seat. You might have issues registering your bike if it is the 3E racing model. Rules vary from country to country. To my knowledge both the ED and 3E (red tank) models should come with the trail bike seat - I wish the Repsol version did too. Chris.

Twinshocked is correct but only on the street models - ED and 2E. They (with the full headlight setup) use a "power relay" to provide power for all the lights and horn etc. That relay is only turned on by the ECU after the engine is running. That's a good setup. On the 3E and 4E models, the small headlight is simply connected to the common 12v line and therefore, can rob power from the pump etc. That headlight is usually only 20W max so I guess they get away with it. They all plug into the 4 pole lighting connector. The 3E and 4E models connect to the red (+12V) and the green (earth) wires only. If you want to install a relay, the Yellow/Green wire in that same connector is from the ECU and provides an earth to turn on the power relay after the engine is running. Chris.

I’m guessing one or more of the following: 1. The company doesn’t like getting sued. Faulty brakes could possibly get you killed, a faulty clutch is less likely. 2. Brake fluid is potentially exposed to more dramatic temperature changes so could degrade more quickly. 3. The brake caliper seals are exposed to the outside world – water, mud, dirt, and pressure washers. So there is a chance for contaminants to get into the brake fluid. The clutch slave cylinder is more protected. Personally, I just change both clutch and brake fluids once a year on all my bikes. I find the brake fluid can be quite dirty looking whereas the clutch fluid is always clean – maybe Montesa has something there. Chris.

Better still, send that low quality 4RT to me (I'll give you a couple a hundred for it) and buy yourself a Gas Gas or a Sherco. That way you get to replace all four link bearings every year because they are all water affected and seized - nice and consistent.

Even if the fan appears to be working, you might find the thermo-switch has become intermittent. It's happened to me twice. Unexplained coolant smell and visible coolant down on the bash plate. Fan appeared to be working (was coming on and off as usual). Obviously it wasn't always coming on as required and a week or two later it stopped coming on. Replaced the thermo-switch (again) and it's all fine. I also installed an extra earth wire and bullet connector under the tank so I can easily by-pass the switch if it fails again. Chris.

Post #42 "it doesn't get away for the fact that there appears to be a bearing missing" Post #51 "ie NO BEARING FITTED not my lack of servicing" We kinda got the impression the bearing was missing.

Hi Nicos, That is interesting. The factory must have changed their mind at some point - looks like we're both right! Normally the 250 Raga got the Delorto and the 280 and 300 got the Keihin as standard. The strange thing about those photos is that, over here at least, it was the 2010 Raga that had the gold frame and tank. The 2011 model had a black frame and mostly white tank. 2011 Raga models also had the Reiger shock which has a purple coloured spring. I think that article is showing pictures of a 2010 Raga. The first picture (the closeup) is showing a 280 (says so on the barrel). The other pictures appear to be the 250 (hence the Delorto carb). Weird. All the best, Chris.

Hi Steve, No problems fitting the Xiu main bearings. My dealer had them in stock in Australia. They appear to be made to the same fit as the originals. Best to heat the cases to 120°C and freeze the bearings and they will drop straight in with just a stiff push to get the external o-ring to go into the case. The bearings come with internal and external o-rings but I note the internal one is just black rather than the orange viton o-ring that the genuine ones have. Also, there is no arrow marking (like the genuine ones) on the edge of the bearing to align the oil drain hole so you need to mark it yourself with a felt tip pen. To remove the right side main bearing from the crank will require a bearing spreader that can lock into the external o-ring groove and a puller or press to finish the job. Installing is no problem, again heat the bearing to 100°C and freeze the crank and it drops straight on. Again a further push is required the get the internal o-ring onto the shaft. You’re getting a good deal if the Xiu bearings are cheaper than the genuine ones. I had to pay AU$72.00 each (compared to $52.00 for genuine). I’ve only ridden the bike briefly (can't wait till the weekend) and can’t say I notice any difference but on the bench the Xiu bearings are definitely easier to turn than the originals. And I can’t comment on their longevity. Chris.

Hi Nicos, I beg to differ on the factory routing of the carb overflow hose. The photo below is of a brand new bike and you'll see how the hose is routed upwards. There's even a factory plastic clip that holds that hose to the transmission breather. I checked an old copy of a prominent trials publication at the time (issue 28 August 2011) and the test article shows the same routing. Having said that, I do agree with you that it probably should be re-routed to allow the fuel to escape and many, if not most, people do just that - but mine works fine like it is. Unlike the Del-orto, the Keihin PWK28 has only one bowl vent hose (in addition to the overflow) on the off side and it is about 40mm long pointing down.

Hi Nicos, thanks for the tip about helicoiling the barrel studs. I had never heard of any pulling out of the cases. So that's something else I need to keep an eye on. I machined those studs and dowels myself from stainless steel because I hate how the original zinc plated ones go rusty. Same goes for all the screws and engine mount bolts. Any bolt you want to continually check for tightness ends up going rusty and then bike looks old before it's time. And I like shiny things! I totally agree with you about the fuel overflow hose on the Keihin carb. RIght from day one I wondered what was the point of running it uphill but I thought I'd try it in the standard position and found that the bike runs perfectly at any angle. We've got some very steep stuff where we practice including the mega hill climb "Behemoth" and the bike runs spot on going up or down it. It also starts first kick hot or cold. So after three years I just ended up leaving that way. But I know plenty of others on this forum have found otherwise like your good self.

And just for your interest, here are some pics of my little repair job... The sad sight of my beloved Gas Gas pulled apart... The gearbox in pieces... Crankshaft... Crank and gears installed in the new right case... New bearings installed in the new left case... Cases put together (clutch on to check the gears are working)... Right side with barrel installed... Left side... Measuring squish (head) clearance using a piece of soft solder... Engine back in the frame... Look, no more cracks!... Finally, ready to ride...

Hi MagicMat, I'm sure your bike will be fine. I've given mine a hammering on big logs and rocks and, while I'm generally pretty diligent with maintenance, I had neglected to check and replace the bash plate rubbers. Metal to metal contact is not good. Anyway, these photos might help you to check what shape yours is in. This shows the original why my case broke - not enough clearance and the rubber broken in two... This shows how it looks after repairing the cases and re-shaping the bashplate and installing new rubbers... A bit wider shot of the bash plate clearance... And the other side... For reference, this is from the original factory pics showing the correct shape of the bashplate (mine was flat on the bottom...

Just an update - I’ve got my bike all back together and it’s running great. I can’t wait to get out for a practice on Saturday. No major problems – these are a nice motor to work on. The cases I got are actually for a 2012 Raga which means they allow for a broken shift shaft to be replaced from the clutch side which is a nice feature. As mentioned earlier, I replaced the main bearings with the Xiu Engineering ones and also installed a new set of rings. My engine mounts and frame all line up perfectly. But I did use a press to put the right curve back into the bash plate. It’s obviously (now) important to ensure there is 8 to 10mm of space between the bash plate and the rear engine mount and that the rear rubber is in good order. I can post some rebuild photos if anyone is interested. I’d like to acknowledge the help and advice provided by the crew at the Sydney Gas Gas dealer (don’t want to break any rules by naming them but they are “Hell" of a good "Team"). Also, the videos by Jim Snell in the USA are invaluable. Thanks for all your comments, Chris.

The best way I have found to get the caliper bled is to start with the pistons removed, then holding the caliper half at about 45° with the drillings (bleed or feed holes) at the top, pour as much brake fluid into the cavity without spilling it. That should half fill the caliper. Then, maintaining the same angle, push the piston back in all the way. As the piston goes in, it should expel the air out of the bleed or feed hole along with some fluid. Now you should have the piston all the way into the caliper with just fluid behind it. Bolt the caliper halves together and refit on the bike then bleed as usual. Hope you get it sorted. Chris.

Hey MagicMat, don't panic, I still think the 2011 and 2012 Ragas are the best bikes out there and I'll be keeping mine. From what I've read and been told: all the engine mounts must be kept fully tight including the swingarm pivot and the bash plate bolts, obviously the bash plate needs to be kept in the correct shape, and replace the bash plate rubbers regularly. In my case the engine mounts where all tight except the swingarm pivot bolt (it was just finger tight). This is a problem because the hole in the frame on the right side is much larger than the bolt so relies on the bolt being super tight (I think the spec is 51 ft/lb) to securely locate every thing. My main fault was not replacing the rubbers in three years. Thanks for the input Shyted. Turns out the Sydney dealer (I'm downunder) has all the bits I need and they should be here in a couple of days. It's taken me the past week to dismantle everything so I know what I need. While it's down, I'm throwing a set of rings in it (it's done a lot of hours) and I'm also springing a bit extra for a set of trick Xiu Engineering low friction main bearings. So with that and decoking the exhaust it should be better than new. I'll keep you posted but I imagine it will take me another two weeks to get it back together. Chris Brisbane Australia.

Any of those battery powered bicycle headlamps are fine. I use one mounted on my helmet visor. For an engine powered light, you need to stick with incandescent bulbs as the Gas Gas electrical system is not friendly to the electronics in high powered LED setups. Even though it is regulated to an average of around 12 volts (AC for the lights), it is not true smooth power. The way it is regulated is more like a mains light dimmer and it still has short spikes well over 75 volts. Most LED drivers can handle up to 36 volts. Bikes like the new model Ossa, Montesa, and Betas appear to have a proper regulated 12 volt electrical system so you can use any 12V LED light setup on those. On my bike, I run an older (2002-2006) style headlight with a 35 watt halogen bulb. Works good but even that one blows bulbs occasionally. The bulb is a Narva 42027 Ba20d. I get mine from this ebay seller http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301217298484?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649. Chris.