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What did you to to the exhaust, You mentioned a de coke, was this just a clean of the baffle tube and a re pack?
You didn't try to clean the middle box did you?
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Modern bikes do run hot especially the 300's, The pistons are large compared to the cast cylinder and have thin walls that heat up, The cooling system is only just capable of stopping them boiling over, The GG and Sherco are the worst culprits for running hot and knocking.
It seems to be worse with the Keihin carbs as standard setup cause them to run lean at around 1/4 throttle to keep them running clean. The Keihin is a difficult carb to keep running sweet. Even some of the experienced guys on carbs can't get one working right.
I used to run a 300 with a high comp head and boyesens with the Dellorto carb and it never knocked once even in summer, being ridden hard.
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345+vat!!!!! They are on drugs, I would want them gold plated for that cost.
Give the people who did your forks a call and see if they can do it.
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Looks like it will conform to the rules as the forks look under 36mm.
I love the chain tensioner!
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As Ham said, ATF is fine, I've been using it in Beta, GG and Sherco's for years.
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You can maybe adjust the nut away from the tap so it bites into more thread on the tank, Iv'e done this in the past on a bike that had the same problem, The tap may clamp up in a different position and make it awkward but if it works you can at least ride it.
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Rear wheel, brake and swingarm from a 99TXT, Rev 3 forks and yokes, Sherco front wheel.
I've got to fabricate a mount for the rear linkage and tig'd on the swingarm.
I need to find another shock as it has a weep so I will find something lighter and more modern and make it work with the old spring.
I need to reinforce frame and change the rake and footpeg mounts.
I'm planning to go original colors and stickers as I still want it to look JCM.
So far it hasn't cost me much luckily as the bikes are worth next to nowt, I have a soft spot for the bike with many teenage memories to re-live on it!
I just need to get welding and fibre glassing now.
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Thought I'd get in 1st and title the topic before some one else says it!!!
This section has been quiet for ages now so I thought I'd post a couple of pics of a project I should have done by now.
I've been collecting loads of parts over the past year or so, I just need to get the rest of it mocked up and fabricated then strip back down and refurbish it all.
I was lucky to get one of the last 2 new mudguards in existence, I'm not going to use it though, it's too rare so I'm getting replica's made as I know I'll end up breaking it.
Spot the parts that shouldn't be on the bike.
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So did GG buy Ossa or did they have a finger in the pie from the start?.
I can take a good guess where the money went, The sister companies that supplied GG (Hebo etc) were raking it in leaving GG just ticking over and needing sharehoders and the banks money, Then the big guy gets out still owning the sister companies and starts up another brand?????
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Reminds me of a dodgy French film I once watched!
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The frogs know how to ride!
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There is alot of confusion with the smaller Gas Gas, The Rookie has the same frame and running gear as the big bike, The Medium wheel Cadet is just the rookie with smaller wheels, Forks, swingarm and a different foot peg mounting.
Both models use the Morini engine (50,70 & 80cc), It's reliable and works but not modified for trials as the port timing is to high up the rev range and the exhausts are not matched to it. They take some time to get used to the power band but the kids love them when wound up!
But all aside they are great little bikes and are better built and have better equipment than the junior Betas, Whose only better point is the 80 engine.
2nd hand parts are easily got from the bigger brother bikes so it outweighs the higher purchase cost of the bikes.
The auto Boy is a different kettle of fish, totally different from the other 2 kids models.
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The 02-09 pro pedal should fit, I know the 06,07,08 bikes have the same pedal on the rookie and cadet, Not sure on the 03 but I'd imagine it to be the same also.
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Hi, Long story short it will not fit. It could be done but the fabrication and machining needed would make it not worth even considering.
Just get the sherco engine sorted or sell the bike for spares and get a running one.
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Hi, Rotate the stator the same way the engine turns (anticlockwise on the gas gas) to retard.
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If you ruled out a faulty carb and swapped the cdi with another bike to check then I would put money on the head being the culprit, Sherco could have sorted this very easily with a lower compression head that would have cost the factory about £25 or less. The engine would be the same spec as the standard model after that.
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If jetting didn't cure a lean problem, It sounds like either the compression was too high or The batch of CDi's were not mapped correctly.
Sherco's do run lean and knock at the best of times, My ex factory bike was right on the limit in the summer months even with slide and jet changes.
Bad customer care from Sherco, They should have identified the fault and replaced the parts needed for them to run correct for the market they were sold for.
It's not rocket science for them as the Cabestany replica bikes are not much more than a fancy front pipe, so called tweaked ignition and some stickers, very far from the actual factory spec bikes built by Paxau.
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If it stays in the shaft it will do no harm, If I remember correct the nipples are alloy so a magnet won't work. I'd leave it then wait till you have to do a strip down and then retrieve it then.
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Look for the marks on the stator where the bolts clamped, Sometimes you can tell the original position that way. If not you can just centralise it to see if the bike runs then advance it bit by bit till the bike feels right.
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Here's a response I got from the maker.
It would take a fair amount of time to saw through using a hack saw as its awkward and thick. Box is always difficult to saw as saw catches on each face that it is sawing. It would also be very noisy. At the end of the day no security device is infallible. You could put a bike in a safe and youd get in with a Stihl saw. Its all about time and noise. As ive said device is impervious to bolt croppers which are quick and silent. I had 2 motocross bikes stolen in November. Both were ground anchored and secured with expensive Thatcham approved locks/chains. The thieves cut through both while i was asleep in bed. This is a new concept so no Thatcham approval as yet. In fact i doubt i will go down that road. My insurance has no requirement for Thatcham approved devices it just stipulates that bikes must be secured to an immovable object. We have designed this for owners peace of mind rather than satisfying insurers requirements which as i demonstrated above are useless against bolt croppers.
By the way I'm not trying to pick holes in a product I'm Just searching the best security available so wondering what others think to get a widespread view on it.
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Can you get small GPS trackers powered by a extra long life battery and hide it somewhere on the bike?
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The Dellorto PH series doesn't have an overflow, Just a breather. I love the Dellorto reliability too!
I'm not sure on how much fuel should be in the float bowl, Never really needed to check but I'm curious now.
I can not understand how it's coming out of the air screw. Maybe a blockage in the air passage on the engine side of the slide messing up the pilot circuit.
I suggest getting some tamper proof torx bits and giving the jet tower passages a good clean as the holes are minute and easily blocked.
I love the Keihin performance but have spent more time fiddling and setting them up than anything. I can probably strip and rebuild one with my eyes closed now! I need to get out more
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The tool station chain lube is o.k but messy, and a pain to wash off and de grease.
I have used the tool station white grease, about 3.60 odd, for a few years now, I always clean and de grease the chain after every trial as it's the only way to get all the grit out of it. The pressure washer gets most of it making it easier in the solvent tank afterwards.
Don't use WD40, It's ok to spray with to stop it rusting but a chain needs grease to protect it and the sprockets from impact wear.
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Probably dealer only but you might find some numbers on the shoes and search some that way, most other bikes were disk braked long before 2003. Engine parts on that year are the same as the KTM mini adventure and are at least half the price if you get them from KTM.
It might be worth trying KTM for shoes as I think some of the smaller KTM's had drums too.
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