steve_earle

I see classic trials is turning to an upper class sport. There are guys spending 10K building a bike that ticks all the rule boxes but is nothing like a production bike of that era except it looks exactly like one. It's only a matter of time before they find a way of hiding an injector in a classic carb body! They should, as others have said, just have an open modified class for the tricked up machines, There are 100's of tricked up TLR'S etc around. What will happen is the championships will loose entries as the 10K so called classic guys are putting pressure on the organisations as they don't like a 2K twinshock being as competitive as their boutique build. I also agree that it's not fair to run a lightweight special build against a stock era machine, Just add a class, get more entries, everyone is happy, The clubs make more in entries and the ACU make more too. Or am I missing something?

I remember I drilled out the other vent on mine that also helped with the fueling. Good point Cope, Crank seals are probably due by now on that age of bike.

Have you just changed sprockets etc? If not and the chain has just streched it's probably past it's use by date, Get a new one if that's the case. Or as the others have pointed out a half link will do nicely if you have changed to different sprockets.

Nice vid of Dabill on form, That must have been from Hook Woods the day before rather than Butser.

There was a huge amount of work that went into holding this event, Not just the organising and sticking flags in the ground but also clearing large areas for parking and improving access. All done by hardworking people purely for the love of the sport. Butser is a fantastic venue but very different to what most riders are used to, The Northern lads are used to rock quarry's not chalk and marbles. The venue is limited to loose very steep climbs and roots, there's nothing else there to take marks so it's not the fault of the organisers. However the expert route was a tad hard, There could have been more deviations, Quite a few riders had to retire, and they are very good centre level riders, not just average experts out of their depth. It may not have been perfect for many riders but the organisers tried their hardest and worked their nuts off to make the event happen so they deserve praise not whining as it wasn't just them sticking the flags in. I think it was a good event to mix the series up with different types of venues and it did sort the men from the boys! Well done Mick, Whitley club and everyone else who put the event on, I enjoyed watching it!

It won't be just the gearboxes blowing up if that happens!!!

I take it you have properly cleaned the carb and ruled out air leaks. The 300's running the Keihin carb do run on the borderline of lean with standard jetting but they shouldn't knock unless really hot or carbond up. What year is the bike?, Do you have hot weather where you are? As others have suggested you could change to a #3 slide. You could also try a 48 pilot jet. If your running at low altitude and not in hot weather then you have a problem some where that needs sorting I guess.

Sherco's with Keihin carbs do run on the lean side. 1st thing to do is check the float height is correct, You can find the info on Splatshop's website. The fuel pipe can pinch between the top of the carb and the airbox, Check this and also check the tank breather is working as it should. They do leak fuel from the overflow even when the floats are set correct, If you adjust the floats to stop it leaking so often it will run even leaner, It's the angle of the carb that causes this. Make sure the overflow pipe is routed so the fuel leaks to the ground and not near the rear linkage or painted parts. The 1st and cheapest mod to do is change to a 48 pilot and a 128 main, The air screw will be at around 2 to 2.5 turns to dial the pilot in, Needle 2nd groove from bottom. Changing to a number 3 slide will help but they are £60 so do the jets 1st and see how it is. Boyesen carbon tech reeds will help also and give a better control over the throttle response. It took me hours of experimenting to get mine running how I like it, Most riders don't even notice they are too lean.

I get it now, Spanish has never been a subject for me. I can speak fluent F***wit after a few beers though!!!

British Leyland were Spanish?

They have foam strips on the underside of the tank to stop vibration, Self adhesive draught excluder foam will do the trick. As far as I can remember there are only 3 grommets for the radiator fixings that push in the holes. Have yours broken in half? That would explain the extra ones.

Is the lever firm or spongy? You can sand the disk to make it rough, This will bed the pads in faster. I think the model you are talking about has the HEBO caliper? These can be a problem when the pistons and seals wear.

I was waiting to get some stick for that, I'm more of a boob man myself LOL

If it's the 2 pot AJP/Brembo/Grimeca caliper: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-BRAKE-PADS-Pad-Sets-Peugeot-Speedfight-front-rear-Kyoto-HIGH-QUALITY-S1066-/191280761902?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2c8938cc2e Or the 4 pot AJP: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Beta-Gas-Gas-Sherco-Montesa-Trials-Bike-Front-Brake-Pads-AJP-/181681776557?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a4d13e7ad

Most info for Gas Gas can be found here. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html.

Just look at the size of Bou's legs!, Add a 60K development rear shock that has been accidentally mentioned a few times and an engine with more grunt to catapult it to the moon then add Bou's capability and experience and you have the answer!.

I'm looking forward to seeing it, But there's bound to be the usual 100 page debate from the regular doom bringers on how it will not work or explode or snap in half!!!

10T Sprocket I find ideal, It makes 2nd gear the universal section gear unless there's a bit of a hill. I think the long front pipe is the standard length front pipe, The short one gives a slightly sharper pick up, but most will not notice it. No difference worth £200. The flywheel weight will soften the bike slightly off the bottom end but it will make the bike run on when the throttle is shut, In the midrange it can make the bike more of a handfull as when the engine starts spinning it keeps wanting to go. A low compression head insert will do the best job of making the bike softer at the bottom as will fitting a keihin carb if you don't already have one.

Get an alarm aswell, CCTV is not much use if no one can recognize who nicked it, especially if they are wearing a hoodie.

Actually don't set fire to a lump of wire wool, It's easier to stamp out a rag of burning petrol!

Don't set light to an exhaust! The centre section could be packed with wire wool so all the packing will either disintegrate or turn to small solid lumps. Wire wool goes up like a rocket, just hold a lighter to a lump of it and you will see what I mean.

Just had a look at your video but I can't get a decent enough sound at my end. It could be the idle gear damaged by the kickstart as dadoff2 has suggested, It can suddenly happen with an unlucky kick. I gather it made that noise straight away from cold so will rule out pre ignition knock all though it looks like the head insert on the bike is a high compression one going by the red colour, They can cause knocking when the bikes warm especially if there is carbon build up in the head, they need regular cleaning to run best. These engines are simple and easy to work on, pull it apart and have a look, It's a good time to give it an overhaul anyway.

Practice your clutch slipping technique, I use ATF as I like a fierce clutch, I have no problems with slipping the clutch. It would be easier to slip with different oils but you run the risk of clutch dragging more. Play around with the biting point adjuster on the lever, Set it up so the clutch bites earlier, This will make the biting point closer to where you finger has more strength and control.

Is it doing it from first start? Are you riding in cold temps?, Could be carb icing. Or has the bike been left a while during rides, as it could be 2 stroke settling in the carb and crankcase and needs a bit of a clear through. Maybe water in the airbox or still damp on the filter after washing?

It might be due to the harder compund of the Dunlop. It might be leaking around the rim when let down to trials pressure. It might be worth breaking the bead and using what the tyre fitters call beadsealer, glue like stuff that you brush on the rim. Failing that, a can of tyreweld always does the job. What made you choose a Dunlop?