steve_earle

The standard 260 4RT is a cracking bike, Brilliant suspension too. The Repsol version is not worth the extra money when the standard one is so good.

The price is a big difference, The Mont will hold it's value better so when it comes to sell It won't be much difference 3 years down the line. I'm a 2 stroke fan, been riding them for 32 years, I feel the 4 strokes lacking in the mud even the 4RT with the 300 kit. The Mont rides better than the Beta as far as set up and suspension goes, The new 260 4rt is lovely to ride and for a novice they almost ride them selves until it comes to the really hard stuff. I don't dislike them they are just not me. Beta has re designed the rear suspension this year but I have not yet ridden this model. If they have sorted it out from the earlier ones you can't really go wrong with the beta for build and power delivery. Both bikes are a really sensible choice so I see your dilemma.

Safety is the main issue for the beginner and novice routes. I set out the beginner routes with the kids and small and medium wheels in mind, I always look at where they might fall, I check sections for low hanging branches, Thorn bushes and brambles that the larger riders might take an eye out on. The main challenge is setting the novice route or C route but I'm not going to go into that!! I think as long as the Beginner (D Route) is easy and not dangerous or scary and suitable for new ish riders then no one can say a trial is too hard just they need to practice. Riders who have hardly ridden a trials bike and enter their 1st trial will think riding over a stick is hard and most are expected to have a hard time till they have done a couple of trials and start to get the hang of it, As long as it's safe for them. I advise them to just have a go at what they feel comfortable with and use the rest of their day to ride round and practice as long as they are having fun. Look at it his way: 10 sections, 4 laps. Your maximum score will be 200. Some people think its too hard if they drop 50 marks even though they are riding at 75%. is that right? I remember the 80's and 90's when we used to drop 60 marks+ and still win the class. I think riders were harder back then not the sections!!! To get a good gauge for a club look through their past results at what riders in each class score but bear in mind freak weather can throw it off so look at a few trials as an average.

Emmissions.....Just wait till Hon(fim)da make Cats & EGR mandatory for 2 strokes.

The AA and RAC used to have fold up trailers for years that they carried in the back of their vans for bike recovery. I know a couple of people that used to use them. Get googleing and your sure to find something like it.

Gas Gas must be doing something really wrong financially, They are the longest established, They sell more bikes than any other brand's. Is there any hope for the new brands if the big boys in the market can not make it work?

Only you can really answer the question as you have owned both brands in the past. Get a test ride on both and make your mind up. All you may get is biased info on here as 2 stroke vs 4 stroke is chalk and cheese.

It does separate very quickly if left in the carb for a couple of weeks. It seems very thick compared to other 2 stroke oils. I got some as the dealer run out of Ipone that I was using before. I will be going back to Ipone when I run out of this Putoline stuff, I don't like it at all. I could leave my bike for a month with the Ipone in and when the carb is stripped still looks good in the float bowl. This Putoline stuff goes like treacle. Not a major issue at the moment as I strip and clean carb and airboxes in the wet weather but when summer comes I don't strip carb every ride. The Putoline doesn't smell too much when running so it does have a plus point, The Ipone stinks really strong of strawberry when running. I also feel the bike doesn't run as clean on the Putoline (80:1). That's just my opinion, There will be a few who swear by it, I'm just too fussy with the fueling on my bikes, I don't see Putoline causing any major issues, Both my bikes do run on it but I can't wait to get back to some better stuff, I can't bear to waste stuff, Luckily I'm down to 1/3 left so time to get some Ipone again, Happy days!!!

I sometimes use a vacuum oil extractor on the bleed nipple if I want to save time, It leaves both hands free to top up and pump lever. Normally I just bleed in the traditional way, always works unless there is a problem somewhere. http://www.force4.co.uk/pela-650-heavy-duty-cylindrical-oil-pump.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAlvilBRC5ueCzkpXb4kgSJADxop1BQiNfbvPErws5tLwIdLfX4mMCXgvEVkOvc4wwWzhKahoCNxTw_wcB#.VL7YV9KsUl8

Its a standard thread on the centre bolt that holds the clutch, I take it you have already modified a socket to fit it. I always undo them with an air gun and hold the centre with some grips and thick cardboard to avoid damaging the teeth. Just be careful how you do it, Thats the most important thing. It might be a good idea to medium strength thread lock the nut when re assembling. How come you are removing the clutch? You can strip out the clutch plates without undoing the centre nut, Unless you are removing it to split the cases.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-PK-Power-Plus-Banana-Blast-Fuel-Fragrance-Gas-Scent-Race-Car-Street-Motorcycle-/201099775553?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ed27b0e41 I might get some for all the monkeys behind me in the queue.

You only need to unbolt the 3 bolts and remove the water pump housing to do the job. Odiously you will need to give the gear oil a good drain and maybe another change shortly afterwards to get the contamination out. DON'T remove the casing like the one in the photo especially without draining oil out properly 1st, And if you ever have to remove the casing lay bike on its side first and also give it a good wash before hand. Easy Job Have Fun!!!

To be honest I do like the Dellorto, It's bullet proof and does the job without having to constantly tweak it. I do like the bottom end power delivery of them, They give better torque bottom to mid range. I think a Keihin is smoother off the bottom in standard form and to be honest I would be better off with a Dellorto with my riding style but the last bikes I've had came with Keihin as standard. I think a 28mm carb is too big for most trials applications, The top guys use them as they are always using max revs and dropping the clutch but the bottom end performance is a bit weak due to the size. It's each to their own with setup, I've spent too much time making a Keihin behave like Dellorto but now I've sort of got the best of both worlds with my set up except the tweaking of the Keihin depending on temps.

Actually a bit more than a cracked frame, It was repaired and lived to fight another day till someone stole it, They must have been blind or desperate.

I had a Whitehawk 175 back in the day, This one was built with a DT gearbox instead of the TY. It left my riding buddies TY175 for dust every time on the straights, We were crazy between the sections!! I really beat the hell out of that old thing. Here's the old girl with a cracked frame, I was a crazy teenager and the bike was out of date and not worth anything back then. So wish I had it now!!!

Here's the exhaust from my old 2011 Sherco. The exhaust lit itself up after a hard run so I decided it's time for a new one as I knew straight away what had happened inside. The wire wool in the mid section turned to a molten state as wire wool does, It goes up like a christmas tree. Anyone thinking of putting fuel down the exhaust and lighting it to burn out the oil think again!! Looking at the exhaust it has a sort of expansion chamber design.

Using Candy's to replicate anodising on headstock and mudguard bracket.

I'm the same I can't bear to have a bike running too lean, It doesn't do it any favors long term. I eventually bit the bullet and got a 3 slide, I was considering it for ages but at 60 quid a go I had to really convince my tight ar5e. The bike was running well when changed to 48/128 set up but I felt it lacked still on pick up as I like my bikes really snappy of the bottom. The 3 slide made the bike just how I like it and also made the revs drop better with a very slight engine braking feel, It still rev'd clean to the moon. It might be a bit on/off for some people's style of riding off the bottom.

The 2011 to 2013 Sherco's had terrible fueling, Way too lean. With a 45 pilot about 1/4 turn is it's scope at sea level. Try a 48 pilot with around 1 3/4 turns for a base point going up to 2.5 as needed. Make sure needle is 2nd groove up from bottom. Most impotant thing to check is fuel hose is not pinched under the airbox. The Ideal fix is to set the floats slightly richer, fit a t-piece to the carb hose and return back to tank with an extra nipple from splat shop. Then jet to 48, 128 and a 3.5 slide, Still use the jjh needle on the 2nd clip from bottom. This will make the bike smoother, richer, give stronger torque and the revs will drop as normal to idle, Just like a Gas Gas. Fit a bp6es plug it reduces the pinking. I've been there with the sherco and been through everything, convinced it had a slight air leak. Most people dont notice the weak fueling they just ride it as they dont know any different, I hear loads of shercos running lean and have to grit my teath and bear it.

I didn't paint the spokes, They came black as standard, The wheels are from a club members 2014 gas gas. I just painted the rim and the nipples. I have painted loads of trials wheels now in all sorts of effects. I don't really do wheels for a living just my own bikes and favors for mates. It doesn't work out very cost effective unless its mates rates as they take some time to do a proper job and I get OCD when it comes to my paintwork!!

I'm not sure on the size or make of the weekend drum. This bike was at BVM a couple of years ago. I would have brought it but the wife was with me and saw the price so I couldn't just buy it and tell her it was cheap!. Bikes are different to handbags and shoes!! She let me take some pics of it though. Brian Griffiths or Gollners might have some parts books and maybe shed some light on it.

Paint is easy, These were well keyed, 2 Pack Acid etch primed then black base coat and anti scratch clear coated. Here's some pics as requested. These were done this way as the wide S3 rim stickers were going on so the rim was left bare so wouldn't chip with tyre changes.

Ummm, How to beat Bou.....pinata springs to mind! Sorry is this a serious thread!