steve_earle

This is the best sealer to use: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tiger-Seal-UPol-310ml-Polyurethane/dp/B002SQY852 As dadof2 said NEVER use silicone sealer. If it still doesn't seal get a can of tyreweld from halfords, blow the tyre right up with it and ride it round for 10 mins then let down to trials pressure and job done. Done this so many times since tubeless tyre came out and it's worked every time.

A guy in our club had a fuel pump give up on his ossa, I can't remember exactly how much he said it cost but it was stupid expensive and was not covered under warranty even though the bike was around a year old. However It would not put me off buying an ossa as I think when mapped right it's a great bike now with most problems now refined.

Here's some pics of the gas gas size range for anyone interested to see the size range lined up! It was my last chance to get a photo of them together as the little one was sold for christmas.

That looks like too much lube from the chain has flyed up round the old shock. Good choice with the Reiger, The 2 way adjustable one is the best production shock you can get! Even with the std linkage will be a huge improvement. A decent shock is not just for advanced riders, A beginner will benefit more from a bike that holds the line better on loose rocks and slippery roots. Enjoy Buddy!!!!

In Dabsters defence here, I don't want to get involved in the row but I can see why he thought you didn't own a gas gas. Below is a couple of copy and pastes from posts in the reliability thread, I too were under the impression you wouldn't touch one with a bargepole. "Both myself and a friend had JTXs for a number of years and they were 100% reliable. But since the pro there reputation for reliability has become seriously tarnished. Seeing what happened to friends who bought Pros meant we never did." "Until they sort the frame cracking problems (not all that frequent), fuel tap problems (not all that frequent) kickstart (fairly frequent) and substantially strengthen the crankcases and gearboxes I will not be buying one nor advising anyone else to. That is also the view of several ex Pro owners." Honestly I'm not stirring here, It may be that Dadoff 2 ownes Ec Enduro or older txt's so I'm not trying to imply anything, Maybee just curious that there must be an explanation for the contradictions. In regard to FI on a 2 stroke, Good luck to manufacturers and I hope they all get it right in the end. I have ridden an Ossa that was mapped by Cams and it was the best fuelling bike I've ever ridden, Every other bike at the test day running carbs (dellorto and keihin) were not very good out of the box fueling. The Sherco was the closest to being right.

Imagine getting this guy in an arena with Bou to do a "dance off style" riding show. Wonder what excuses Honda would come up with if it was put to them :-).

There is probably alot of science behind it so anyone anal enough can get googleing but this is trials not moto gp :-). I just use experience to set up and adjust stuff so it works for me then let riding skill do the rest. Lets not turn this thread into a re run of the gearbox war!!!! What works for one person might not work for another but people post questions because they want other peoples views to gather information and ideas. Bike setup is a grey area as it has so many variables, So there is no right or wrong answers.

I see your point, lineaway. I should have explained it a bit more. Moving the bars forward by the clamps will allow the bars to be tilted back further while maintaining the same span, It will cut down the reverse tiller effect on the steering and by changing the angle of the bar to the headstock will allow more leverage rearward. Rasing the bars for a tall rider that is above average weight will help move weight to the rear wheel. This will also make the riding position more like the Scorpa he was at home on before. I've been there myself, Rode in the 80/90's at expert level then started again 15 years later on a Scorpa Sy, Then I wanted a more lighter bike so changed and I did not like the riding position of the newer bikes or the lack of grip that I found on the scorpa. Sorry I thought this thread was about him changing from a Scorpa to a Gasser and trying to feel at home on it.

Praise to Gas Gas for trying to sort some long term issues with the water pump, Hope this one is better. Will it back fit the earlier models? Probably will but I can't be bothered to search part numbers at the moment.

Won't be a problem while the hoses are still new but when they get a few years old there could be some sealing issues when the hoses soften and expand. Some of the castings on the old style pumps are bad, I have had to dress up a few of the lips in the past and I have also seen one wear the hose from the inside.

World level rider, Alexandre Ferrer, and Josep Paxau one of the worlds top people in bike setup and design would not agree with you here. Gas gas clamps fitted to a Sherco and turned round to bring bars forward with spacer plates fitted to raise bars.

Bar risers will be one of the best mods you can do. 12mm seems optimal for 6 foot. You can make some spacer plates to raise them and also flip the clamps round 180 to move the bars more forward. You will need longer bolts for anything over a 6mm spacer. Easiest way is the S3 risers but they are not cheap. http://www.motomerlin.org.uk/s3-gas-gas-bar-risers-81-p.asp Once you have raised the bars you will put less strain on your arms and lower back, also will help with grip too! A good mod what ever level you ride at if you are taller than average.

The standard setup for your carb should be as follows: Slide 3.5 Main Jet 125 Pilot jet 45 Needle JJH, in middle clip I think? Air screw around 1.5 turns but will vary, you will have to play with it till you get it sweet (up to 1 turn either way) This set up is fine for sea level. Your bike should be fine with the std setup. Don't worry about the exhaust popping just off idle, as long as you are happy with the way your bike rides and runs.

Turn your camera the right way round, Or are you a bat!!!!! Seriously though, The bike is looking good, It will be a retro classic soon. I wish there were more people like you keeping older bikes alive. Most of them got junked and classic bikes are too expensive for most people to own nowadays as the rarity puts the prices up. Good work!!!!

Looks like they are checking the height is uniform with an engineers block. Doing this will make sure the the pressure of the diaphragm/pressure plate is even. This is important for a smooth clutch action, also they may know something to do with solving the clutch drag on the Pro? I can't see any other reason for what they are doing.

The full size ones go on fine but you need to trim a bit when you get to the end (about4"), So it depends on the pattern printed on the rim. http://www.stormgrafix.co.uk/trials-bike-graphics/ They do all the trial bike graphics and have the templates for the medium wheel bikes, Tell them gas gas cadet size. These are the full size ones, I started to fit them and realised they were to long when I got to the end, Storm Grapphics were great and sent the right size ones to me straight away, I highly recomend them, Just need to get round to re fitting the other ones now as the pattern on the rims doesn't run equal but most will not notice.The quality is fantastic.

Hi, It fits together like in the picture. The clip sits behind the rubber so the rubber holds it in place then the switch holds the rubber in and the clip holds the switch in. Not the best looking set up but it works and is more reliable than the other types they put in the newer bikes. Place rubber in clip, push rubber in housing with clip attached, then insert the switch and make sure the rubber bit you see looks flush with the housing. The metal clip holds the switch in but only just sits on the edge of the switch so put a cable tie round the outside of the clip so it holds the 2 "ears" of the clip together. Don't do it up too tight, just enough to stop the clip bending out and letting the switch come out. It sounds like you put the clip back to front. Hope this helps. If your still stuck I can take some pics of one.

How about we try and turn this into something constructive, We know about the gear mechanism being weak but this only appears to be a problem with crashing or being ham footed with it so I assume this is not reliability issue just a weak part that needs to be taken care of. The gearbox bearings, I understand that the split needle rollers are the culprits for failure, So is it a particular one that gives up? What exactly causes them to give up? Is there a way of finding heavier duty or better quality replacements? There is a wealth of knowledge from members on here, Dadof2 and Nigel have excellent knowledge, They know their stuff, but have rattled each others cages and I can understand both sides of this Plus it has been a bit of entertainment too! What we need to know is why do they shed bearings and also why do some seem to go on forever?

Does your switch look like the one in the picture?

I find 10/42 gearing is the way to go on the gasser. 2nd gear for almost every section unless a bit of a hill then 3rd. Bigger hills, 4th. Mud and slimy stuff 3rd or even 4th. Launching steps 3rd. Get used to using the clutch in higher gears. Not sure how tall you are but for around 6 foot, Raise the handlebars by 12mm with spacers and flip the clamps round to set the bars slightly further forward. The easier way is to fit the adjustable S3 clamps then you can adjust more but they cost £80. The bike will steer better and make it easier to get some weight on the back wheel, also it will take strain off your arms and back as you will be more upright. Done this on a beta, sherco and 2 gassers now.

I think the 321 has the better old style thermostat in line with the water pipe so It doesn't have a circlip. Its held in place with a metal retaining clip that most of the time needs a cable tie round it to help keep it in place. If you greased the switch when instaling and the clip is not securing properly then it will pop out at the slightest hint of pressure. Remove your switch again and the clip and rubber, Clean all the grease off it then fit the rubber and clip in the housing. Then insert the switch and use a cable tie to keep the tension on the clip.

hi hope someone can give me some advice on my problem, I let my brother borrow my bike and he brought it back without a kickstart i bought one and fitted it to my suprise it just span round sometimes engaging gears but in all different positions, i was told by a friend that it could be at best case the spring behind the clutch that had broke ( the one near the gear adjuster bolt) But on draing the oil prior to taking of the clutch case i drianed the oil but there where two bits of metal on the magnet, i was hoping someone may be able to advise problem and cost to repair i know i need to split cases to get a proper idea of problem also if this helps to identify problem the kickstart shaft moved side to side when case was off PLEASE HELP!!!!!! thankyou in advance The problem here is not with the bike, it's with the chavie who lent his bike to someone and can not decide if its the kickstart that changes the gears or not. I'm trying to not to get involved with this gas gas gearbox war but this is not a real example of a unreliable gas gas gearbox is it. YES gas gas gearboxes can break but not every one has broken out of 100000's sold, We get the message they are not perfect and may be a bit fragile but we don't always get the story of what exactly was being done or not to the bike before it failed. So this seems like a quest to convert every one to the anti gas gas gearbox religion and we should all go round knocking on peoples doors to spread gods message about it. Give it a rest please.

Been browsing an auction site earlier and noticed there's a rear formula caliper on there cheap from a 2012.

I chuck in 350, let it settle for 10 mins then top up till around 3/4 in the sight glass then it settles to half way and job done.

There are a few gassers that have had gearbox problems and you normally hear about them on here, On the other hand there are 1000's that are still holding up well but you don't hear of them cause they are not broke yet. I had a 09 gasser I got it in 10/11. This bike had been previously ridden in the ssdt and the scott by a rider who knows more about gassers than anyone else in the uk then it was ridden by a expert rider. This bike had a propper hammering, It was burning gear oil, The waterpump and shaft was shot and it had a cracked cylinder amongst other stuff. I brought it from a 3rd party trials dealer who tried to mask the problems and tried to fob me off with saying it didn't have a warranty. When I looked at the bike I noticed it was smoking but was assured it was just fuel evaporation as it had been standing. Anyway the dealer sent me all parts to fix it after I had to create world war 3 with him. I didn't name and shame on here and still won't even though he is not the company owner anymore, I'm guessing he was having problems at the time and had to do what he had to do. The bike was perfect when I repaired it and It survived well with me on it and held up without fault or missing a beat. The point is, The gearbox on this bike was spot on, I checked everything when I had it apart and it showed no signs of wear anywhere so it proved they can take a hammering in 2 of the toughest events in the uk and then some. Also it proves that a bike ridden by top riders can still be knackered so it's not just Joe bloggs who buggers them up. So my 1st Gas Gas was a nightmare before I even done a trial on it but I stuck with it and it was great, It is still going well now with it's new owner. I'm back on another Gas Gas now. I know the bikes pretty much inside and out. My son is on his second Gas Gas now also. The gearbox isn't as good as a sherco, beta or a 4rt but it's good enough and a damn sight lighter than the others.