steve_earle

It's always best when changing a tyre to clean the rim and seal the rim band, I agree with the others, don't use silicone. PU (polyurethane) sealer is the best either the brand called Tiger Seal or the cheap one in Toolstation is very good. If you have fitted the tyre and it still goes down then Tyreweld works every time. http://www.halfords.com/motoring/breakdown-emergency/breakdown-kits/holts-tyreweld-300ml. With the tyre dead flat, pump it up with the tyreweld can then ride around for 5 mins at a steady pace wait 10 mins then let your tyre down to trials pressue and go and ride. 1 can of this will do about 4 tyres. This is different to tyre slime as only a small amount of foam goes in the tyre, When you remove the tyre again to change it there is only slight evidence of it inside. It seals the spoke band and the tyre rim all in one.

Sorry still of topic but, Couldn't resist this!

Them Scorpa's used to grip lovely but very front heavy, The heavy Yam engine with its heavy flywheel and crank made great soft, torque and was easiy to manage and dial in. The gas gas is loads lighter and the engine has next to no crank or flywheel so will be zippy and quick to respond but harder to feel what the motor is doing till it spins up. You need to learn the new character of the bike and you will need to get more weight to the rear of the bike without fear of flipping it. The clutch comes into play more on a modern bike, Balance clutch slipping with throttle control as you easy it through the slippy bits. Bend your legs and hang your backside back more, don't just stand on it, Ride in the bike not on the bike if you see what I mean. Good Luck with it, you will feel fresher at the end of a trial than on the Scorpa.

The Throttle bearing will go on the black tube, the 2 halfs of the end just screw to the end of it, You may have to drill the end of the tube to take the bearing, Just take the bearing out of the old tube and drill the new one the same size. I removed the throttle tube on my raga to replace it with the alloy type as I like a extra fast throttle, I saw no need for the bearing on my type of throttle and I would have had to machine the alloy tube to take it. You will get the idea when you strip it. It's the same bearing as the one on the left as this page: http://www.trialsuk.co.uk/categories/throttle-bearing

The switch on the later gassers is a joke, and at 30 quid a pop even bigger joke. Always keep a spare or a small manual switch with some wires on it that you can quickly hook up if it fails at a trial. You can retro fit the earlier switches that go inline with the rad hose, You will have to get a housing for it too, Earlier shercos use the same one so try breakers for a cheap 2nd hand one. Look at Raga's factory bike, He's using the larger pre 14 rad and the old style in line fan switch. Goes to figure that the new rads are not great. Browny has been given the bigger rad as I have seen in a few pics, especially for the ssdt. http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag325/autoskill1/crop_zps810c17e1.jpg

A set of titanium bolts and spindles will save a huge amount, Then magnesium swing arm and lower fork tubes and a carbon fiber air box. Also you could remove 1st gear like Dabills factory evo to save a few more grams. All this should see it under 60kgs presuming it's a Real 65kg in the 1st place.

Just skimmed through this, The electric water pump has been mentioned to put load on the engine, Yes this is true, I wont get into it technically but go to any older car, start it up turns the lights on, high beam and the heater on full and see the engine drop in revs at idle because of the load on the alternator. If the windings in the bikes stator are up to it I don't see this a problem as the negative effect is negative so to speak as the bike doesn't go everywhere at idle. I'm excited about this Vertigo, It's an Ossa with the engine the right way round. I really like it but would not buy one (couldnt afford it any way), Till 3 years down the line when the teething problems are ironed and they are on the 12th map etc just like the ossa as they are now a great bike. Out of all the new brands this is the only one that has ticked boxes for me and if money was no object I would sign up for one today.

To be honest, Most posts on this section are regarding peoples problems with bikes asking for advice, The gas gas section is the biggest section so will have more posts about problems probably due to the large number of this make owned compared to other brands. You rarely see post by people saying " rode the bike today and it had no problems and didn't break down" Just the negative posts odiously. The notoriously unreliable gas gas boy, Well My son has ridden almost every weekend for the last 3 years with only 1 retire from a stator fault that was caused by being soaked in water a few times due to a bad seal on the casing. It had exceptional maintance from myself and started 1st kick every time and was rode all day even after the sections had finished. If I was not good at maintaining it, I would be on here every week slagging it off but as It was going well I wasn't on here every week giving it praise. Bikes these days need alot of maintance including washing and properly drying and a good check over after every ride, People who wash their bikes and leave them in a shed till the next trial and wonder why they have problems are the main contributors to giving a brand a bad name. I'm not jumping up to defend Gas Gas as I own one, I still think Beta is built slightly better and newer shercos not far behind as I have owned scorpa, beta, gas gas, sherco and now gas gas again in the last 4 years, My current bike is hardly used but the others were older and well used. Anyway its good fun to have a debate on certain brands, but one thing I will comment on is that I own 2 Gas Gas's but I don't hang around the beta and montesa sections slating them. I'm only browsing round here cause the mrs is watching Eastenders or some lame Twilight film and this site keeps me from blowing all my money on JCM parts on ebay.

The rectifier only converts the ac current from the stator to a dc current to power fan and dc electrics. Definatly not to do with ignition timing, The Cdi will pick up a timing pulse from either a hall sensor or alternating poles of the coils shorting north to south to simulate a gap at tdc. The cdi then uses this info to determine the spark time and will advance it depending on engine revs.

This might help: http://www.trialspartsusa.com/diagrams/GAS%20GAS%20Trial%20Aluminum%2040mm.pdf

I think I see how this system works now, So could this be done: Stator output passed through a bridge rectifier and routed to 2 regulators 5v and 12v, Odviously they will need a heatsink bracket making up, then the 12v routed to fan and 5v routed to cdi. There are a few ways to wire it with the same result. https://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/voltage-regulator-5v.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAp4yjBRCE_enjmpug944BEiQATCpLvWmmOCE5enpV743B61c1hbLuOCKKnWUjdorDb4S1QcAaAvHx8P8HAQ http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/130948535760?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/141316793337? limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0 Does this look possible?

Im very sure the plastics and airbox will interchange from 2002 up to 2010. The air box lower is quite cheap new http://www.splatshop.co.uk/gasgas-air-filter-box-lower-part.html. The main reason they break is they are fixed with a couple of small screws so they just come apart and break in a flip, Somtimes they are siliconed together and that helps a bit. The best thing to do is take them apart and use polyurethane sealer such as Tiger Seal to bond the 2 halves together, This will make them 10 times stronger and maybe you will only break the mudguard on the next flip.

Beta used to use Grimeca brakes but have recently seen them with the new type AJP/Braketech units the same now fitted to Sherco, Ossa, JTG, Montesa, Scorpa, probably Vertigo and guess what Gas Gas too. I have seen a fellow rider break the front one on his 2014 4RT a month or so ago, The fittings are smaller with 10mm bangos and thinner pipes and parts are not on the shelf yet at some dealers. The master cylinders are also very light and fragile. So basicly all the trials brands have the same units now so all the factories are at fault!!. I Ride a Gasser again now but I'm not biased, You can't have bikes this light and expect them to be perfect, and to be honest and no disrespect to people on here but I read various posts and there are a lot of bikes maintained by people who don't have a clue what they are doing. But on the other side of the coin there are people here too that really know their stuff and you rarely see them on here with problems. What we need is a good Spanish brand but built in China under supervision. These days you can buy a brand new 125 road bike, that is now very good, much better built than the 5 major trials brands for quality and best of all they RETAIL for about £1200. Makes you wonder what the real mark up is on a Trials bike? And yes I know they are built in small numbers but with £4500 profit in them they don't need to sell alot so you can see why new brands are starting up in what appears to be an owercrowded, specialist market. Clever buisness people dont throw this much money in just for passion about trials. So what I'm getting at is most brands are poor but we love the bikes when they work and I will continue buying junk and be happy with my junk as with proper maintenance, I have never retired due to the bikes fault in over 4 years.

Im not familliar with the ducati system but that looks way too complicated and feeble, Must be a dual regulator rectifier and seems like a lot of bother all that just to power a fan or a couple of LED's if you have lights. The later system with the 2 seperate units would do, or better still there will be people on the forum who could point you in the direction of similar parts that you could pick up for under a tenner and improve the system with some dead simple wiring.

The pull out filler tubes like they have in the 1L ATF bottles are great, Been using the same one for years. Also been using ATF for years now in many different bikes.

It is very common for the triggers to go down on the stator, Mine seemed o.k with the multimeter but changed the triggers anyway they cost about 98p each but you need to have good eyes and be good with a very small soldering iron.

I love Beta build quality, Apart from stators and corroding engine cases you can't go too far wrong with one. I have heard of Gassers giving gearbox trouble but have never had one let go yet, The parts are dearer than Sherco but cheaper than Beta. As for the 4rt its built well and reliable, but hey so is a Volvo, Just wait till they bring out a Repsol caravan,Nuff said!!! If you like your Beta stick with them, A new Beta will make you happy.

Just read this, Well done Very interesting read. I take it Paxau is not his best drinking buddy!!!!!

Defiantly get a new kickstart spring in there, Looks like you have almost killed that one! Good Luck with the rebuild.

Try stripping the clutch out and clean the plates with brake cleaner, Re assemble in the exact order it came out as on some clutches the thicker friction plate has to go in 1st. Don't soak the plates just give them a good drenching and let the cleaner evaporate. Check the steel plates haven't glazed too much, Give them a light sand with fine wet and dry 800 to 600 just to make them dull, dont go to mad with heavy grits as it will wear out the friction plates when back together. Contamination from the water leak has probably soaked into the plates. Atf should give the sharpest clutch action over all the other oils, with out going into science, it basically grips better so to speak. 10 40 is fairly thick so it's helping with the clutch action at the moment but will probably drag when disengaged. Check for play in the kickstart shaft, Could be a worn bearing or bush wearing the seal.

http://www.kelleycarbon.com/Parts-List-and-Prices-2014.html

Hi, Joe ninety has a great idea here and it does work and will save you a few quid if you want to slow the throttle down. I'm the opposite and have used the X pro ultra fast tube for about 3 years now but I have restricted movement in my wrist when hanging right off the back. They are super quality, I've had my on on the 4th bike now and there is little wear. There's a cheap flywheel weight on that auction site at the moment, It's the S3 one so it's not a heavy weight.

Why? A little more input please Neo. Is there somthing I'm missing? I've been running ATF for 10 years in modern trials bikes with no problems even in the Gassers with DP clutch packs that everyone swore blind that they would disintergrate with ATF. If there is a problem with running ATF, other than making the action a bit sharper, I would like to know, I'm not pre doubting your knowlege just curious. I know it can attack seals and friction materials in older bikes especially if water gets in there too and mixes with the ATF.

I have always used atf in beta, gas gas and now the sherco, It's cheaper and more stable for the clutch if you are the sort of rider that needs to slip and launch. It's also manageable for clubman type riders too. Maybee a bit snappy for a raw novice. They have split the oils in some riders factory bikes now and they use a modified enduro heavy duty clutch with a specially made clutch casing, Interesting to know but only needed for world championship sections. The reason for using different oils is not too complex but means they can run different levels and types where needed in either casing. The standard sherco clutch is very good and even the factory modified clutches over the last 2 years are excellent. So back to the point ATF in the 2011 on bikes is fine, As for the older ones check with others first but I can not see a problem with it.

Just seen this and heres my input for what it's worth. From what I can work out the gearbox breather was connected to the carb causing a vacum in the carb that would make the bike run very lean especialy at higher revs as the vacum would starve the float bowl. The bike probably suffered a meltdown through running lean that lead to the other damage. The new owner should have noticed but didn't and just kept on riding it to destruction. A gearbox breather should not be hooked up to the carb in any circumstance on a 2 stroke trials bike. So It looks like this issue is knock for knock so to speak (excuse the pun).