steve_earle

Where were you hiding on Sunday Gary? Found a new bike yet? I'm all for companies being brave in this current climate but it is a hard market to compete. Firstly bikes aimed at clubman such as the Scorpa are excellent bikes, ride well, built as good as a 4rt but do not sell. The Jotagas looks special but they seem to (like the ossa) drop quick in value, They ride well and are good bikes but I feel they need to compete with the other brands top models so need exotic bits like a raga rep etc to justify the price. If the company stands the test of time then more people will have the confidence to buy one. Mr Saunders has faith in them and I don't doubt his judgement for a second he's a legend! But the Spanish hold the purse strings. The Ossa has been around for a bit and had problems at first but now they are almost sorted and people still don't buy enough of them. The Greeves, Don't need to say anything there. Xispa, As Greeves. The new bike buyers are mainly middle aged clubmen riders who get a new one without fail every year. Not because they all want to show off but because the body gets older and needs the lightest easiest to ride bike so as not to be too knackered at the end of a trial. I was at a trial a few weeks ago and no lie there were at least 6 or so middle aged, middle of the road clubman riders all on new Gas Gas Factory Replica's and a few more on racing and 12/13 raga models. There's some money down south! I would love to see all brands both old and new do well and keep bringing us new exciting bikes but beta and gas gas have the market share and are very much sorted, established machines and have the loyalty of hundreds of well off clubmen waving their check books at them year in year out. Am I missing somthing of am I talking Bo11ox? If So tell me to shut up.

From memory I think you could just remove the cover and change the impellor then re fit with the spacer. Some impellors have a left hand thread, so watch out when undoing as you can wreck the old one if un-done the wrong way. I done this on my Gasser, I should have known better.

Firstly, what does the lever feel like, Is it spongy or is it solid? If you lever is solid and positive and adjusted properly then I'll bet the pads are your problem. You can do the old trick of riding the bike with the break on and getting them hot then pouring water on them but the best way is to chuck the pads away and stick a set of Galfer pads in. I have never had to bed in a set of Galfer pads just stick em in and instant front brake. If you already have the red backed Galfer pads then you have a problem, We will need more info to sort it out over the internet. There is hundred of threads on breaks and all the answers are there just do a search.

Hi, Search Trials and Tribulations web site they are a good source for old stock stuff. Regarding the laquer on the plastics the factories did not prep the plastics properly, Laquer will not stick properly to shiny plastic. The best way is to prep the plastics 1st my rubbing them with 800 wet and dry until they go dull then apply the graphics. Then lightly key up the graphics with a grey scotch pad. Then Laquer them with HS 2 Pack laquer. Single pack aeresol can laquer should be avoided but you can get the 2K stuff now in a can from bodyshop suppliers if you have no proper spray gun equipment. When laquered they will be shiny again so don't worry about the dullness from sanding and keying. I've done more of these than I can remember and I can bury even thick vinyl with a decent clearcoat.

High comp heads will improve low end power, They make the bike more snappy and improve low end grunt. They will aid performance well in the summer when the air is hotter and less dense or if you ride at high altitudes. The down sides are that they can make the bike run slightly hotter and they can slightly reduce revs at the top end but only in extreme high revs. I have run high comp heads on my Gas Gas 300 and the Sherco 300 both bikes had boyesen carbon reeds and keihin carb and made a big difference in performance. In summer I would reccomend fitting the CSP waterpump kit to keep the temps cooler. They are simpole to fit also. There is a Very high comp insert on the auction site at the moment for a fiver, well worth a punt to experiment with.

Hi, The pipe will give slightly better response but my bike is a 300 with high compresion and a ported barrel plus other factory mods. On a standard bike it will not make much difference unless your old pipe is dented or coked up. I only changed it because my old pipe had an argument with a rock, Still cleaned the section though!! The water pump cover is painted candy red over a silver base. It looks almost like anozised, The picture doesnt do it much justice. I do custom paint in my bodyshop. It's not as hard wearing as anodising but it's free for me so happy days.

High comp insert will work wonders. Regarding the bash plate, You could make up some alloy spacer blocks. About 3-4mm should do and space the plate lower at the rear frame mounts. All you need is some alloy plater, longer bolts, a drill and a hacksaw. You may need a thin strip of rubber to go under the existing rubber one to keep it tight. Lowering the plate will keep it away from the cases more and keep them safer. A £4 mod can save a £500 repair.

I second the silicone, the high temp rtv type, Halfords sell the loctite silicone this will work. If the o rings are not damaged just clean the joint with carb cleaner or white spirit then apply a light smear to the male part of the pipe and assemble. Leave the bike overnight before you start it to let the sealer set. I have seen factory bikes with silicone sealed pipes so I feel I'm not a bodger after all!

http://www.splatshop.co.uk/jitsie-inox-exhaust-pipe-to-fit-sherco-2t-11-13.html Check these out. The titanium pipes are easily crushed and will crack on the sherco due to the position of the bends. I brought the Inox pipe as it is lighter than stock, still has a conical section to help power and stronger. It also turns a nice gold colour when you get it hot for the 1st time. The Ti pipes do look cool but are fragile and expensive way to save very little weight.

If the bike revs clean, idles fine and doesn't knock or ping then leave the carb alone. Where are you having problems? Is it when riding really slowly and the bike is jerky of the throttle? A slow action throttle and some practice in throtle control and learning to ride on the clutch more is all thats needed. If it's a handfull at the top end of the revs try lifting the needle 1 notch to richen it up a bit but it may limit the top end rev range. You can try flywheel weights, spacers etc but they don't compensate for poor technique! Ride another 250 or get another 250 owner to ride yours just incase you have a carb problem. The delorto carb is an excellent carb and if jetted right and clean don't mess with it. You don't want the nightmares us lot have with the Keihin carbs !!!

Yeah very helpfull, go to the Montesa forum and talk about 2 stroke oil to the 4rt owners (no offence). Sherco gearboxes are a bit noisey. The later Sherco's have the sealed main bearings so are a bit more hard wearing but they can still go bad. They can still rumble when they are on the way out even though there is no play yet. Don't give up on the Sherco, Compare the noise to some others at your next trial. The Sherco will out ride the Rev 3 hands down and are about the same if not more reliable.

Hi, I may be guessing here but the wear in the teeth is irregular like somthing is not running true or there is play somewhere. Could it be the backplate on the clutch, the bit where the rivets are, is bent or warped causing the gear to not run true?

And water pump/clutch casings HA HA. Hang on I'm just as bad here hijacking the tread. I would agree that something is catcing and jamming up the gears, I would guess also the broken spring floating around is the likely culprit. Normally if somthing was put together wrong like a thrust washer missing or on the wrong side of a shaft you would have had noises and it wouldnt wreck teeth that easily. Post a picture when you take it a part and someone on here can look and see if everything is in the right place just in case.

It's always the Beta owners!!!!

I'll second Tony with the brake rod free play, Also check the master cylinder is returning fully as they very often get crud in them and people don't realise as the brake will still work but casues problems when re bleeding. sometimes a blast with wd40 and a lot of rapid pumping will get it working if your in a rush to ride but a strip down of the master cylinder is needed to fix it long term.

I don't normally show off (honest!!!) But our club was asked to do an Arena display at a show last year so I spent most of the 3 days doing wheelies, endo's, doughnuts and smoking the back tyre up on top of a skip. Good to hear your brake's better now, Practice your stoppie's on not too steep long down hills as it takes less effort to get it airboune and it's easier to hold it about a foot off the ground with out getting in trouble.

I must add I'm not having a dig at dealers or importers here they do a great job. It would be nice to get sherco parts as quick as Gas Gas. We don't want to open up that can of worms though. Anyway I'm happy now as my bits turned up in todays post, I was not expecting them on a Saturday. I'm still seriously thinking of getting a Raga after xmas just because of the parts nightmare I don't want a repeat of me missing trials next year.

The water trick works great, I'm not sure of the science behind it but it works and 99% of the time it will make the brake so much better. If the brake is still not to you liking, Galfer pads, 1 finger, bike on it's nose simplez.

I can't remember the codes now but a couple are close on the ral or bs chips. The colours will vary by year as different batches of powder vary. Also vw corrodia red is close. Best bet, Take your bike to a body shop paint supplier and hold some chips against it but be carefull as the solvents in basecoat paints will attack the powder coating and can make it bubble up where your touching in. Best method is touch the area in with a bit of light grey or white 1st then with red as it will cover better. Dont put too much paint on in one go, Dab light bits on and give it a short blast with a hair dryier between coats to eveporate the solvents before they attack.

if its 2012 or over it may have them. You profile says you have an 08 250, if this is the case you have AJP brakes. Regarding your front brake, If it is hard that is good, it's supposed to be like that. as others have said you can adjust it but it won't make it soft, it will just change where it bites. From what i can make out you are using it with one finger and you are finding you have to pull it really hard and it's not stopping too well. If you want a powerfull front brake that is easy to use with one finger use Galfer pads. I ride lots of other peoples bikes and find some front brakes hard to use properly with one finger especially bikes with Goldfren pads in, even though I have shovels for hands and am pretty strong.

http://www.splatshop.co.uk/blog/2013/01/paioli-ceriani-fork-oil-levels-for-sherco-trials-bikes-from-2006-to-2011/ As cope has said. I bet it's too much oil, Follow this link and check the levels:

You can not buy direct from Sherco you have to go through one of their dealers. I can understand the loyalty and keeping the dealers in buisness. It's not the dealers or the importers fault, it's just the chain of supply is like pass the parcel until it gets to the end consumer. Sherco's slogan should be: "Buy a Sherco and get free observing practice (as you ain't riding the thing till you get the parts)"

2004 sherco 250. Couldn't restist it, It says so on the left !!! Best way is to phone or email sherco uk. Beta has a list of frame and engine numbers published on their site, I know it doesnt help with this topic but why can't sherco do the same. All the motocross manufactures have given the acu list's of frame and matching engine numbers with years to help machine examiners at events identify stolen bikes.

The gas gas is basicly rev and go with hi and low gears that are pre selected, They also have a neutral but can not be changed while on the go. The pick up is very smooth even with standard gearing providing the clutch has 2 springs instead of 4 ( some bikes were shipped with 4 springs just remove 2, I rebuilt a 2011 the other week and that had 4 springs). It's ridden just like the osset rev and brake, down hills are no problem, it's easier to ride than the osset as the pick up is smoother and they dont have the engine braking effect like the osset. My son rode an osset for his 1st trial and sort of got the hang of it but the battery went after a few hours and it isn't fun for him to watch all the other kids still going on their petrol bikes. 2nd trial I stuck him on a gas gas I was expecting the worst as he was a nervous lad at the time but he jumped straight on it and rode it better than the osset. The Ignitions go on all the gas gas boy's not just the early models, they changed the early ones slightly but 05 to present had the slightly more reliable system, however it will cost about a grand to put the late ignition on a pre 05 bike As long as you remove the ignition cover after every trial and dry it out it should be fine. The early bike, apart from the ignition, is built so much better than the newer ones. To be honest all the newer small bikes, gas gas, beta, sherco etc, scream chinese in the build department, they are junk but we have no choice as the japs won't build a modern TY 80. Clutch action on the Beta minitrial is snachy it has to be reved really high to engage not really for trials but an ok field bike.

By the way this video and the company is nothing to do with me, I just came across it while researching