steve_earle

axI think the standard sherco is as good as the standard gas gas or beta's but the cabestany replica misses the mark compared to the Raga's and factory evo's as they have more trick bits and magnesium crank cases etc. I think the cabestany sherco is cheaper than the opposition from memory. One thing I can say about my sherco, It does ride better than my gas gas did, Better grip, Better suspension, Lovely power delivery. My 300 Gasser was tricked up and tuned, boysens, high comp head etc (ex gg uk bike) & loads of trick bits but I prefer the sherco I have now. On paper the gas gas should have been a better bike but the Sherco just does it for me.

Hi Mark I didn't realise at first from your user name but it makes sense now. You had a good ride on Sunday, well except section 8 LOL. It's funny when people jump when our bikes backfire, just need to find out how to make mine bang louder now!! See you at the next trial mate, I'll be at the next Waterside one probably.

As others have said, Cylinder porting, Higher compresion heads, Different ignition, Clutch mods, Carbs tweaked and jetted different. Probably more but this is what I have found on mine so far. The cabestany replicas are not the same as the factory bikes, they just have the stickers and some bolt on bling. The 300 engine & clutch is modified in the factory bike. By the look of it Cabestany has tested magnesium crankcases also in 2012, as there are pics about, (look at this years sheffield programe) with the tell tale dark gold colours. Different suspension, although it looks the same from the outside. Titanium & alloy bolts everywhere that cost a fortune. The Sherco's are very rideable in factory tune, Nice and smooth off the bottom but they go ballistic when you wind them up. Also the u.k factory team bikes are not as specced up as the spanish factory bikes. But every bike is different depending on the rider it was intended for.

Mine whines when running on ATF fluid, My gasser and beta whined too when running it. I still use atf as I like the clutch feel. try an oil change to see if it cures it.

Sounds normal for this model, A guy in our club has a 2010 cab and it does the same. I have a later 300 factory and mine does it too. They run very advanced on the timing for performance, you can retard the timing depending on your ignition type but it will soften the power a bit if you go too far.

http://www.trialscen...n-what-happens/ Just stumbled upon this post, It's 10 pages so happy reading!! Hope yours is just the crank seals, Would make sense so fingers crossed for you mate! Will sort mine eventually but it's so slight and I can ride round it so to speak. Probably just the fact mines running a keihin and there cr@p and i've been riding gassers that run miles better than any sherco i've ever heard.

Hi Mate, It does sound like a possible air leak, could be crank seals but rule out everything else 1st before getting involved with changing crank seals. It will most probably be the flywheel side (the easier one to change) If it's an air leak. If it's the other side it will burn gear oil, smoke and oil up the plug. Could be a leak from around the reedblock or it could be fuel related, check the tank is clean, double check the carb again, Check the filter in the carb if it's a dellorto, Check the spark plug is clean and gapped to 0.6mm. Check you have installed the needle in the slide properly if you have had it apart. It's normally quite hard to diagnose a fault like this without hearing the bike, People are very kind and want to help, Many know what they are talking about, but don't go diving in on the strength of other people's advice with this sort of problem. If in doubt take it to a mechanic. I have a slight lean situation on my bike and im gradually ruling things out, It may be a crank seal on mine but it will be less likely as the new bearings are sealed themselves. My bike is a bit different to normal sherco's (factory 300) I will get it running to my liking in the end. Chris at splat shop is a good man who knoes his stuff. Good luck

Hi mate, This is the norm, The forks only have a spring on one side, makes them lighter. The disk will move as its a floating disk so is designed to have movement in it, This compensates if a caliper is out of like or the disk has a slight warp. This is basic explinations, no doubt some one will get their anaroak out and go into more detail LOL.

Looking good mate, Nice mix of 11 & 12 stickers :-). I keep looking at my Sherco and wondering what it would look like with a red frame. I might do mine with my own special candy mix, Looks just like anodised red. I did some parts in it and everyone was asking where I got them from, When I told them I had painted them they were shocked! Might give me something to do over xmas or a good excuse to hide in my nice warm paint booth.

I would suspect a blocked jet as the bike started to tick over then reved up, If it was throttle cable it would have reved up instantly. It may have started then sucked up some muck causing starvation and reving.

Hi, Riding techniques are hard to explain in writing. Practise is the best way. With regard to hoping the front you have the right idea. Back brake on, slight compress on the forks (front brake not important). You need to shift your weight back while lifting up and back, basicly you are using the back wheel to anchor and use as a pivot to lever the bike. Go get a push bike, stand beside it with your hands on the bars, Pull in the back brake and lift the front end. You will notice you are not lifting the front by upwards movement alone you are rocking against the back wheel in an arc shape. Hoping to the left or right is helped by your inside legs and swinging your hips along with leaning slightly in the direction you want to travel and using more pull on the opposite arm to the direction you want. Hope this is not too confusing, This is the technique I use after thinking about it as I have been doing it naturaly for years.

The weight difference is massive compared to the standard. If the pipe is shorter of a conical design like the Thor one it will make a very slight difference to the bottom end. The main reason to get one is they look and sound cool, Dont rust and will make you happier just looking at it. I love them for that very reason. For tuning see my post in Boysen reeds.

I used boysen carbon on the rev 3 250 and they did make it pick up quicker. If you want more go off the bottom junk the flywheel weight, Get an x-block fast throttle tube. Changing the base gasket to a thinner one (0.3mm) will raise the compression and slightly alter the port timing giving better bottom end. Advance the ignition timing slightly. I did this on my 250 rev 3 and it was a different bike, I also changed main jet from a 150 to a 145 and pilot from a 30 to 27.5. That was running Mikuni carb and you probably have a keihin on the evo so seek advice on jetting the keihin if it needs it. All cost about 70 quid but what a difference, Really lively and snappy off the bottom and still revs clean.

This time of year I always Jet wash the mud off making sure not to blast vital joints and bearings. Then I soak the bike in truck wash and leave for 5 mins, Then rinse and use compressed air to blow water out of the vital components like the brake calipers and swing arm pivots etc. Then if im at my workshop it goes in the paint booth and gets baked dry. Chain comes off gets de greased and properly cleaned as the jet wash still leaves loads of muck in it. Air filter gets cleaned and dried and the airbox gets wiped round. A quick strip and clean of the carb. I go round the bike with white spray grease and lube up moving parts such as kickstart pivot, Foot pegs, Rear brake pivot and bush, Brake and clutch levers and also spray loads round the suspension linkage bearings as it stops water and mud getting in when I ride it next. Some people may think this exessive. I take my bike to a trial, They start 1st time, run sweet, never brake down and win 1st or second majority of the time. I can do this process porperly in about an hour. Most people don't have access to the gear I have but the most imoprtant thing is to blow the vitals with compressed air after washing. You can pick up small compressors very cheap (less than a caliper rebuild kit or a set of dogbone bushes) so will save you in the long run on parts that will wear out prematurely due to corrosion and mud. There's probably more I do but this is what I can think of at the mo. Feel free to call me an anorack or cue the posts along the lines of I just jet wash mine and put it away and I never have an issue!!!!!

Glad you have got it sorted, Bud. I fancied a change from the gasser as i run out of things to tune on it and need an excuse to spend hours in the garage again. Luckily It's gone to a local guy in the south so I will still see it about, hopefully the right way up as it is an animal! I have an ex factory sherco 300 2011, It's softer of the bottom but is very strong like the gasser right through the revs. The most difference is the suspension, Better than the gasser, A Bit More Grip & the rear mounted fuel tank makes it very well balanced front to back, It endo's better and rides better on the back wheel. I do love gassers still but the sherco was offered to me very cheap. I will probably get another when I'm bored with the sherco. You will have to have a go when your'e next at a trial.

Hi Mate, The reason why the kick start is tight is because it is not seated properly as others have said. They can jump out of their locator bushing at the rear while you are putting the case on. I have had it happen a few times when putting the motor back together. Best to lay the bike on it's side and keep the shaft pressed towards the engine while you put the clutch cover on. Have just sold the gasser and now have a 300 sherco. Hopefully see you at the next trial mate.

Been looking at pics and noticed the 013 kickstart is longer. I was wondering if anyone new if it would fit, I presume the shaft is the same but I can't make out from the photos if the exhaust had a different cut away for it? My 011 300R is a pain to kick over, I had a 300 gasser with a high comp head and it was a breeze to start compared to the Shedco.

Hi, fill up, replace cap and run, then check and re top up. The coolant will find it's level if too much it will dump some out the overflow till it's at the right level. Running with the cap off normally applies to cars to bleed air out. I imagine on the sherco it would just pump all the coolant straight out when started. That's the way I do it on all bikes, Someone please correct if it's a different situation on the sherco's.

Hi, I'm not too familiar with the 08 model, Going back to the days of my scorpa sy, the adjuster was at the top and they had a hole in the mudguard that you could insert a screwdriver to adjust the damping. Not sure if it can be done on the sherco just thought it might give you an idea to see if you can modify yours.

Hi mate, Do a search on the forum, there is lots of info about it, I was reading up on it myself the other day.

Hi, As the other guys have said, It sounds like its running weak. Fuel starvation can also cause your symptoms, Check the fuel tank breather tube and the 1 way valve in the tube isn't blocked also check the fuel filter, fuel tank & fuel pump also.

Thanks for the info mate, You seem to know your stuff. See your point, No hard feelings. Will bear this in mind when im getting coating done in future. My beta job was a freebee in return for some painting i done for him so can't complain. I have been etching with upoxy super etch 2k, the brown stuff, as i use it on other jobs, then scuffing up with a red scotch before giving him stuff to coat, Is this an o.k method. Im starting to think my powdercoater mate has led me up the garden path a bit.

I think it's Fuchs or comma atf, I get it trade price as I own a garage. Will bring some sunday no probs. Takes a while to get back into it after a break. Took me about a year! Got a vid of you on section 2. The ditch looks smaller in the vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ar94MKmW7Q8&feature=channel&list=UL See you sunday.

There must be different types of power and some types must be more resistent to chemicals. My beta was a nigtmare if you spilt fuel it would go soft instantly and smudge if wiped with a rag. It was definatly powder as it was done by the powder coaters that used to be next door to my paint shop. Thinking about it now I have a thinners tank I use for soaking components to strip paint etc, and i recall some powder coated stuff dissolved in minuites and others needed loads of scraping, wire brushing and re soaking. Im interested now about powders in case I have a frame done in the future. Could there have been a problem with the powder used on my frame. Anyone got any ideas.

Wow, didnt want to start a war on powdercoating. I had a leg crack a few years ago must have been a one off or it was already cracked and i didnt notice or the powder coaters messed up. Anyway if you get them powercoated you will need paint the right colour to touch them up with, not a big issue just get the ral or bs number of the powder. Powercoating does not like petrol it goes soft in seconds and you can't wipe it till it evaporates then you have to buff it after as is dulls. (a year of owning a beta with a powdercoated frame, not good when filling up) So make sure your fuel breather doesnt dribble on your forks. I dont want to upset the powder coaters on here I'm a fan of powdercoating, Im just shareing an experiance i've had. I get loads of work from 2 local podwer coaters as some things they don't like to bake in an oven. Replying to a post accusing someone of being a bull$hiter is not a very polite awnser to someone trying to help someone with good intentions. Marky boy, Try using some decency next time to explain you have a different or correct idea on the subject. If someone post's wrong information yes, let everyone know but don't lower the tone with swearing or getting on your high horse. Please everyone disregard my earlier post and don't let this escalate any further.