steve_earle

Fan switch, also called a thermostat! Or could be a damaged wire shorting and letting the fan run constant.

ATF goes bright pink when mixed with water. I used to flush the old Sherco boxes out with petrol every so often, never done any harm on mine.

They are a good bike and better built than the others, Beta are good with warranty as far as frames and swinging arms go. Clutches can stick on any trials bike, The 4rt that everyone sings love songs about does it too! The rear spring is a tad soft but easily uprated and the waterpump cases corrode, Stators have been a problem for some but again easily sorted. In general you only hear about ones that have problems, The 100's that ride trouble free week in week out don't get mentioned (unless they are a 4rt). Beta parts are not cheap, the usual parts that are not available aftermarket are priced at stupid money.

A pressure sensor doesn't make it closed loop or even close to behaving like a closed loop system, It will only measure negative pressure similar to a Maf sensor. Without a lambda sensor to measure the state of compustion, the ecu is only guessing the fueling. Having said that a properly mapped Ossa is fantastic, I really like these bikes, I've ridden a really good one mapped by Cambs Trials. Enjoy it while parts are available!!!

The 2011 had weak frames, Mine was welded in about 4 places and strengthened up around the footrest hangers, It was a good bike apart from that, A cracked frame doesn't mean it's been abused.

It won't hurt to run a scotch brite round the bore in a similar pattern to the honing, It will help bed the rings in uniformly. A shiny bore will just polish the rings rather than wear them to the shape of the bore for a better seal. As others have said there's a lot of debate around the net on this along with running in.

That could explain the movement, I see what you mean. I only found about the knuckle when I changed to a different shock on my 13 factory, I spent ages comparing part numbers on all the years to make sure I was ordering the right £90 knuckle!! I can't work out why they changed the 13 setup then changed back, Maybe a cost thing.

I always round up all the half drunk bottles of water from mine and the mrs car and keep them for filling the bikes up, mixed with coolant of coarse. I agree to an extent about supporting the trials dealers, If you are ordering other parts it's not too bad but if you have to pay postage on a litre of antifreeze is bloody dear. Problem is trials dealers don't make much out of oils and consumables, It's the manufactures that are raking it in. I don't think twice about handing over hundreds for parts and bling, but chucking money down the drain on products I can buy cheaper is a fools game.

It would be nice to see one but I think Montesa have the 4 stroke market sewn up thanks to Mr Bou, Plus the price of them is reasonable. Sherco would be foolish to invest a huge outlay in developing one that only a select few will buy.

Halfrauds are the biggest rip off going. Try a local motor factors. No you wouldn't need a gallon of clutch oil that's just an example of the mark up on some stuff. You can buy 5L of concentrate antifreeze that will give you 10+ L for the same price of 1L of the fancy stuff with a picture of a bike on it!

I've found these, they are the closest I could find to the correct size, they are 1mm wider so will have to be modified to enable the seals to go in the dogbone. They are 1.69 plus vat. Do they look like they could work? http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/?catid=1158&att1=15mm&att2=21mm&att3=15mm

Looks like a good mod, Similar to the sherco set up £12 to replace all 4 plain bearings!!! The shock knuckle is the same on all Evo's 09 to 16 with the exception of the 13 Factory that had a different knuckle and a longer shock so I doubt this being the reason for movement in 2014 on bikes. I'm going to google sintered bronze bushes now as this seems a good plan.

Sorry, Couldn't resist.

Alloy engines are the norm for cars over the last 10 years at least, The antifreeze you get with a picture of a motorbike on it is the same but three times the price of the car branded stuff!!!!! Same as mineral clutch fluid at £6 for 150ml when a gallon of it (LHM) is about a tenner from the motor factors. Same story with ATF etc etc etc etc. Pretty much every bike lubricant has a premium price as it's perceived to to be the stuff you have to have for a bike!

£200 for a near obsolete conrod isn't bad, A second hand bottom end from a breaker will set you back over £100 and will be well worn also. I replaced one on a 2014 Sherco and it was £250 Just for a conrod kit. Just ride the bike and don't worry about it, if it goes bad chuck a rev 3 lump in and sell the remains of your old engine bit by bit, you will make good money on it as the bits are hard to get now.

It looks like you need 2 top hat threaded parts that go behind the flywheel and some countersunk hex bolts. Look at the one in the link, it will show the bolts you need. http://www.splatshop.co.uk/s3-gasgas-hidria-flywheel-weight-2013-on.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiA_fy0BRCwiLaQ5-iFgpwBEiQA884sOVP99CRT6ZaiNGaUPju-fWxFdKFUZKS2MThCrbJP11AaArgq8P8HAQ Some pro's use a weight, It's good for getting the engine spinning then dumping the clutch to get up vertical steps!!!

Don't worry about it if the oil is fine after a drain, It's just the cold weather and moisture in the air inside the box separating. I get this in both mine and my son's Evo.

or search evilbay for a aftermarket set, The print quality is not the same though, The blacks seems very grainy.

I'd bet on blocked pilot jet or crud in the pilot circuit passage, Remove the mixture screw and blast through with carb cleaner then compressed air.

This bike will improve your riding, It will make you more sure not to crash.

Change the bearings, There cheap as chips from a bearing supplier or a 2nd mortgage from beta. The main thing is check the bushes that go through the centre of the bearings for wear or pitting, They are not cheap and the only supplier is Beta. The std bearing used is a HK1514RS, (15x21x14mm) RS means rubber seal, but there are 2 seals fitted externaly also. I have found the std RS bearings have a thick rubber seal on one side that is pointless if it has 2 seals already, I have found the non Rubber sealed bearings (a real pain to find but they do exist) a better choice as without the rubber seal the rollers are wider and this gives the bearings better support. Most new beta's have play in the linkage. After changing the bearing type it was greatly improved. On a side note, If its a 2016 model check the shock rose joint (spherical) bearings, I have found one with loads of play in one of the joints after 2 hours use from new, Must be a faulty one, I will see what Beta say with regards to warranty, I expect they will send a new bearing as Beta are good with that sort of thing.

Why not ask the Ossa factory direct?.....................................................................................

Id advise a 250. 300's are great news for the importers as rear mudguards are £100 a go and they use words like Novice to Expert in the spec sheets for them!! It must be a conspiracy to make more in plastics than they do in bikes.

Pull off the waterpump casing and check for corrosion if it looks o.k just change the oil and keep an eye on it. Could be a waterpump seal or as others have said just condensation, I get it on mine from time to time and it reminds me to change the oil!!