steve_earle

The Fuel taps are junk even on the newer bikes, You can strip them and give them a clean, There's usually swarf from the threads that jams them up. A rubber washer under the rear tank mount is also a good idea to give the tap a bit more clearance so you can actually get your fingers on it. Failing that change to the older style push pull tap surprisingly cheap for a Beta part!!!! http://trialstribulations.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26&products_id=2389&zenid=ptm52vhlk68tkl384q6nclkq15

The S3 pipe works, Ive ridden one before and after.

He's Mr Bou's secret suspension guy. The truth is out LOL.

Hope they get back up and running soon, Beta don't use S3 cylinders do they?

I rode a 300 back in 2012 at a test day, It has loads more grunt but it's still on the lazy side, runs out of revs like a diesel. Unless your an expert rider you will get no benefit or extra grip. The 260 is more than enough for most who ride them, I see many people who are just a passenger, being taken for a walk by the bike!!!! Spend the money on an s3 pipe and throttle body mods, Makes a hell of a difference for less money.

I'll have to try 1st when i'm on mine next!!!! I think the newer standard bikes 15/16 have inherited the gears from the earlier factory bikes. Off the top of my head I think the primary drive ratios have changed to what beta call quick gearing or something, It sounds good in the brochure anyway. I would say the gearing was like a Gas Gas running a 10/42. The Beta 2nd gear is like 1st but it makes 3rd and 4th more useable and no big jump to 5th like on the gasser. I feel the Beta needs 2 less on the rear for me, 2nd just needs that little extra bit of leg for zapping the smaller stuff. Going up a tooth on the Beta puts it equal to a Gasser.

I would not recommend an air shock on a trials bike, They get warm as they are close to the exhaust and due to the slow speed of trials they get no air flow either. The air shock thing was done in the 80's on the JCM and Alfer bikes and failed, If they are improved now the factories wouldn't miss the trick. Air will expand under heat unlike nitrogen charged units. I'm guessing you have a Mont going by the Showa. I recall seeing Sachs do a new shock for about £295 with choice of springs to suit, They are std fit on many trials bikes. If you want the best go Reiger, Gas Gas team uses them and I have heard a rumor Beta are going over to them too.

Many Thanks Sparkybill, I had a feeling that was the case. I was never keen on the rear end of my bike, I think Beta messed up on the factory (ish) model that year. This new shock should sort it right out, I don't mind shelling out on the Delta link as I struck gold with the shock!!

I have a new shock from a 2016 from my mate who has put his Reiger in his new bike. The 2016 fits but is shorter 279mm vs 285, I think (i wrote it down but it's out in the workshop). I have studied the part numbers from various years: Dogbones, all the same 13,14,15. std & factory Delta link, Same 13, 14, 15 but on the 13 factory only they list a different part number. I'm guessing the 13 factory had a different delta link and longer shock so changing the Delta link should sort it. I may be missing something here but before I shell out on a delta link, does anyone have experience about the 13 factory and changing shocks? Or should I sell the new type 2016 shock and put it towards an aftermarket shock?

You obviously are used to a bike with power, going by your other bikes, However you may feel good riding round on a 300 but when your learning trials it may be too much in the tight sections, A 250 still has a lot of power and capable even at British champ level sections. I see some very good youth riders that change straight to a 300 when age allows and they struggle. As far as the makes go, I can't comment on the Vertigo as I can't afford one and don't have the cheek to waste the importers time to just go and try one!! The Current 2T bikes are all very much the same, The Gas Gas and Sherco are my favorites even though the Sherco has some quality and design issues still. I like the Gas Gas and Sherco to ride but My money goes to the brand that look after their customers. BETA, They are well sorted, built well and the Importers look after you, They even replace frame and swing arms on 09 bikes still. When I have the funds to buy new again I will be giving my money to Beta I think out of principle. (If only they redesign to a lighter engine!). If you want a Sherco, Splatshop will bend over backwards for you, Buy from them as they are top guys and know more about Sherco's than even the factory that makes them. The importers and Factory are no where close to Beta warranty or back up.

The bearing that goes on the end of the throttle tube is a better idea for a smoother throttle. Had a Raga that came with one as standard and it was good. However a properly cleaned and lubed (oil, not grease) throttle is just as good, I personally think the bearing throttle wheel is pointless as the bearing is not sealed and quickly gets full of water and crud. Parts like this are just a quick easy buck for who ever makes them.

Why when Beta do a very nice hydroformed frame?, Too many welds to worry about breaking and the weight. It looks cool though apart from the plastics bodged on.

Domino all the way, They come with hard ends so you don't need bar ends, They are dual compound, soft grippy outers, Slightly thicker than Renthals so help with arm pump and they last quite well, They are more pricey but you get what you pay for.

Beta all the way, I do prefer the ride of the Sherco but they have issues the factory is aware of and they just sweep issues under the carpet, The plastic inlet manifold on the newer bikes is junk and they are over 50 to replace and the new ones are half warped so they just supply them with a foam gasket to help them seal. Plus other dubious issues on the factory bikes that need secret parts to fix! Beta is still replacing frames and swing arms on 09 models still, Respect to Lampkins and the Factory!!

It is a coach, I just googled it!, Based on the 5 and 7 series bikes, I've never seen one here in the U.K. I've heard of the clubman though.

The AJP/Braktec would be a good swap and work better than the Hebo one. The Hebo calipers are no longer available. From memory the Hebo caliper has quite a large bleed nipple, M12 or 10 I think so it should come out intact with a bit of elbow grease.

A 2001 bike should be fitted with the Hebo type 4 pot caliper, A 2 pot Grimeca/AJP/Brembo will fit, Also the 4 pot AJP will also bolt straight on. Failing that it can be blead by cracking off the banjo bolt, A bit messy but will work.

Nice bike but looks a bit odd ball, Should have Alloy Swingarm, Alloy Subframe, Disk rear wheel and USD forks for a 307. The frame also looks different around the footpeg mounts. Back to the headlight issue, It could be the regulator that limits the voltage gone a.k.a black box, Check voltage from the stator side with the bike running. Also could be an earth issue.

I'd Swap my Factory Evo for a clean one.

In the U.K and other cold climates alot of people use the BPR6ES, Runs cleaner if you use low revs alot of the time!

Sadly they wouldn't let him enter.........................................................Hydraulic front brake!!!!

I should imagine the Beta will hold it's money a bit better as the Sherco has changed frame for 2016 so the 15 will look more out of date quickly. I prefer the ride of the Sherco as it's less front heavy than the Beta. The Beta is built better, The Sherco's still have issues that they have had enough time to fix but the factory can't get some simple things right yet!

Chain lube flicked on it? If the rod isn't wet don't worry unless you notice a difference. They can be rebuilt, There's a thread on here that mentions a guy that does them at a good price, have a search as it wasn't that long ago.

http://www.splatshop.co.uk/olle-rear-shock-springs.html

There's different holes on the Factory yokes to move the bars, You can also turn the clamps round to fine tune the position further as they are slightly offset. The clamps unbolt from the underside, To get the rear bolts in the rear holes you may have to loosen the top yoke and pull it up to get the bolts in the hole. Raising the bars with custom spacers under the clamps or changing to higher bars will transform the bike if it's heavy on the arms.