2stroke4stroke

The answer's at number 17 here ? Kickstarting

Wouldn't have stopped someone else trying to claim it though?

It certainly should be a slicker process but your opinion might be different if you were on the other end of such a situation. A pal was once grateful for the thoroughness of DVLA over a bike he owned when someone who had come across an old mudguard at a jumble was trying to use possession of that old number plate as the basis for claiming ownership of the bike.

If you're in the UK and don't have formal proof of year (and more besides) you aren't going to be registering it tomorrow.

Indeed, my written log (which never stops working) tell me what I have been doing so I can work out near enough.

I've had two (inexpensive) - neither lasted long enough to be of any practical use. I'm not convinced time alone means much on a trials bike. i prefer to look back on what events I have done and assess how they may have, for instance, affected the oil. Two hours putting round a field doing sections is not the same as two hours spent blasting over the moors.

Is George Greenland not still in possession of this? Not sure if he still rides it.

Probably as easy just to get a wee loop welded on?

If my memory is correct there was an aftermarket suspension unit for the Ossa back in the day that just had a rubber sleeve as you intend to use. I think that's why I didn't buy 'em.

You may get supply details from this chap - Hydro locked 4RT who managed to get a rod somewhere (in the UK I think).

That's interesting. I had a 125, from which the 200 was made, and always assumed it was just a smaller capacity motor in the 240 frame seeing as they came out at the same time.

Crikey, I recall them being 50p each.

You tune from rich to weak. Set a tickover with the throttle stop screw. Turn the mixture screw in (out if it is an air screw, I'm not familiar with the Keihin). As you weaken the mixture the tickover speeds up. Turn very slowly until you reach the fastest it will go then turn the throttle stop screw out to reach the tickover speed you want. You can fine tune from there. I would start at 1/2 turn out on the air screw if you have no approximate figure. The general principle is outlined here http://www.amr-of-tucson.com/idle_adj.html There is a good Amal pdf that can be downloaded showing the various stages of the operation of a carb - can be applied to any similar carb.

If ever there was a trials bike not exclusively designed for use on competition circuits then it's the TY. We just used to use 24 volt truck bulbs to prevent blowing back in the day.

I seem to recall the MAR had a comparatively short wheelbase, the MK 1 particularly so. This might affect measurements and percentage comparisons with other bikes.

An East coast Freebie and the Bean reenactment?

Am I correct in thinking that the TY has a crankcase drain screw? My monoshock TY did and when I put it in to semi permanent storage I filled the crankcase with oil and drained it years later - all seemed fine. You could even fill the bore too. A wee bit smokey on initial start up but no harm in that.

Edit - was confusing names.

You are being too modest Allan in not pointing out that your TY often finishes top of the results list, as it did last time you were out. That may give nigel a bit of context.

Try sticking it in the deep freeze. Then doing a hot/cold cycle if that doesn't work.

Basically you can forget trials gear - it's all designed for romping in Spanish sunshine. SSDT riders seem to get satisfactory results using "outdoor" jackets. Those who bother with waterproof trousers seem to use what might be your farmer's leggings. Never having ridden it I get the impression that Scott competitors don't bother too much - they are certainly working hard enough to stay warm, but something carried in case of breakdown could save a hypothermia attack. In a short circuit trial it has to be really bad before I bother but over my trials gear use an old cycling jacket and stretchy PVC overtrousers kindly provided by my old employer. That's only once every few years though. If you get the right camo though you might conceal a few dabs☺

Are you perhaps expecting two stroke smoothness from a four stroke? They are a bit harsher off the bottom - eased by having what may feel like too high a tickover. In comparison with a TY 175 it will seem particularly bad as the TY has a very smooth power output, not least due to gearing and low power (compared to a typical 250 for instance).

Indeed, and have you seen the entry fees for a mountain bike event? I'd like to see what they're spent on. The insurance can't be more than for a motor sport event surely.

Whilst it only takes a moment to remove the seat I'd follow the advice to tighten the throttle cable before doing anythng else. Your massive wrist movement is spent taking up the slack so you're not getting the revs.