2stroke4stroke

The Minarelli engined 200 was a world championshop section bike in its day as well as a great clubman bike (grand for the SSDT for me) so probably well up to today's twinshock sections. Rider weight is no problem as they coped with two men and a sidecar quite successfully. 300 never really caught on (they never sounded to run right, but they do more to them nowadays) and I know a few folk who never really got on with the 240, there was a rash of measures to soften it off, successfully or otherwise, but we are now used to sharper power and have better tyres and rear suspension.

Once you have the basics of control, practice is much more productive if you put markers down to force you to make that turn rather than just playing about.

I seem to recall the owner of a fleet of these telling me that the electric start model available a few years ago was powered by a Chinese copy of the Yamaha but my local Scorpa dealer tells me the new model is a Yamaha motor.

Good to see that the youngsters can still do on a twinshock what Bernie was doing all those years ago.

Your biggest problem may be gumming up of the carb if it was left with any petrol in the float bowl. Crank seals may have gone hard but should start nonetheless. I'd check for oil in the primary drive and gearbox then, using fresh premix in the tank, and after checking that the motor turns over with the plug out, see if it starts. Check the throttle closes fully before doing so. If it runs you can go from there with a general clean out, timing check, new oils, air filter etc and tighten all the nuts and bolts.There must be videos on checking over a two stroke motor, assessing chain wear and so on. No doubt others will be on soon with further advice.

You'll need to be a bit more specific about what you want advice on. Clearly not on what bike to buy, but that leaves multiple trials related topics that the many on here will be happy to give info on, but expect some of the advice to be contradictory☺

I think feetupfun is correct; generally I can sort the creep without moving the tyre by completely deflating the tube then locking the valve upright with the locking ring (the only use for this - I keep it locked to the valve cap normally so the valve is free to move) then inflate the tube to a highish pressure. When the ring is undone (after letting the pressure out then inflating to 4 psi) , the valve is back at 90 degrees to the rim, the tube having realigned itself, though sometimes it takes two or three goes. In other words, a reversal of the walking feetupfun describes.

"Less engine breaking". One would hope for none at all.

Are you sure the roller was not missing before you started stripping the motor?

Original sizes were 2.75 x 21 and 4.00 x 18. 120/100 might fit but would not comply with ACU regulations which require 100/100 section with further constraints on tread pattern. See TSR 8.

According to the commentator it's a Yamaha, certainly looks like it, they've been mentioned/pictured on TC before.

Unobtanium = whatever price the market will stand. With the prices I have seen other motorcycle engines fetch, 500 to fix an unusable motor does not seem beyond what many would be prepared to pay.

As long as we don't call it "racing".

If you ride ACU then you can have short term third party cover for trials through the ACU. No idea what the cost is though but it may open up options for third party cover to get bike taxed etc.

You have a point there.

Yeah, I always have to dab on a left hand turn.

A lesson learned? It's standard practice for the experienced rider to grease every thread it's possible to get at when buying a bike, new or used.

Doesn't matter what you call it Allan, the ignorant will still get things mixed up, just as you illustrate. I had a chap at work who, having seen my bike, kept asking if I was still doing the speedway.

Hey, at least you stiil have a local hardware store - they've gone, by and large, in the UK to be replaced by big sheds that don't have much of what we want and only packets of "thousands" when they have.

Used on works Bultacos in the day.

Definitely Magura levers, high quality, but use them now and you find the leverage is wrong though we were accustomed to a heavy clutch back then. Still have a set unused which I suspect will end up in a museum.

No need for a security bolt - the air does not know it is in a tube (which conforms to the internal shape of the tyre and rim) and exerts the same pressure on the carcass as it would without the tube. If the tyre grips the rim tubeless then it will grip just as well with a tube if correctly seated. I ran a Beta for long enough with a tube and there was no creep. Clearly a tube could pinch puncture more easily than a tubeless tyre but, in reality, it does not seem to be a problem. I've never tried the experiment but if a tube so punctured within a slow leaking tubeless tyre would not you just end up with a slow leaking tubeless tyre with an empty tube in it as the tyre would retain the released air? However, I'm prepared to believe that a small handful of riders from the world of trials could, in a blind test, tell if a tubeless tyre had a tube in it from the performance viewpoint. They all have technicians to sort leaky rims though.

Under Newton's Third Law it makes no difference to the action of the spring but it is normal to put the tighter coils to the top to reduce unsprung weight (slightly).

Surely the stanchions should have been plated to match the dimensions of the bearing surfaces? Did the plater not ask what diameter was required?

The original frame numbers on RL 250s were just a dymo tape. I doubt whether a number you chose to use could be challenged with evidence that it was not correct.