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Interesting what you say about punch. A chap local to me is now on his fourth Beta 4t, all kept standard. He gets very good results but seldom seems to go above a fast tickover.
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Quite, but we seem to be struggling to get worthwhile numbers of riders to do WTC whereas the SSDT gets about 50% (or is it more?) entries than it can accept,
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As Scottie said, "Ye cannae beat the laws o' physics". In order to go backwards first you have to stop. He definitely went backwards.
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The greatest virtue of the Beta is its silence, if only I could get the 4RT as quiet. Don't spoil it - you clearly don't need any perceived performance improvement.
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Chances are that it was registered at the time - you may be able to recover the number.
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No, but as you obviously don't want to rob capacity from your battery I suggest using a mountain bike light. Good performers can be obtained at prices ranging from very reasonable to totally absurd.
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As your forks won't know left from right they will probably respond to all three of Newton's laws of motion as before, all else being equal.
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Have a look at some old SSDT results to see how well a TY 175 could fare, particularly in the hands of Peter Oakley. They were winning awards all over the country at many levels. Even beating Montesas☺, especially when I was piloting the 348.
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I have seen an excellent new tank, made in France or Germany I think. Modern materials (seems to resist ethanol) and super replica of a Mk 1 tank. Presumably they do Mk 11s also. Somebody on here must have details I'm sure.
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Looking at that video either the bike has been set up with far far too much slack in the cable or something is causing the throttle mechanism not to bottom out on the stop thus resulting in the excessively high tick over and concomitant slack in the cable compared to what you had before. Too high a tickover would also explain the poor starting.
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There's also the factor that a modern fork action is not what the original specification was intended to produce so experimentation may be necessary to suit individual requirements.
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Made by Regina, but to Renthal specification I believe, so not just a packaging job.
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You could do as suggested above, or having spun it over with the plug out and throttle open, then try to start it with the throttle fully open and petrol off. That's how we used to solve the problem with early Bultos etc that often gassed up, as we referred to it.
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I'd suspect something causing the shaft to move, possibly something getting between the kickstart gears. Better investigate once the case is off.
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Rattling like a bag of spanners was pretty much the norm for these bikes in the Seventies. Indeed somebody trying to sell me one actually claimed the horrendous noise from the motor was the spanners rattling in the toolbox.
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Maybe Beta have it right - they seem to sell very well in the clubman market, which has to be bigger than the would be trials ace market that must have the latest thing. Perhaps the clubman prefers consistency rather than big change. There's a lot to be said for a proven machine, notwithstanding some comparatively minor but well known issues. I daresay the UK importer has a lot to do with it as they seem to be highly regarded for customer service compared to other importers.
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A decent paint supplier can scan and match any colour.
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No it wouldn't, I have had a 125 ml tin of Heldite for years and used it on various things (bikes, plumbing projects, kicking the tin over) and there is still plenty left. If you think 11 quid (it may be much dearer in France of course) is too much to sort your problem then you're maybe in the wrong sport (and I'm a typical tight trials rider, disinclined to unnecessary expenditure). Lidl and Aldi do boxes of O rings from time to time at little cost (probably less than a pair of genuine ones).
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I found a suggestion on here to use Heldite on the leaking nipple heads to be very successful.
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You'll also need to cut some serrations in those footrests, those pimples won't do much.
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I used fill it right up then put a clear tube down to the required level (top of body of radiator) then sook out the surplus with a syringe. But any excess would be expelled anyway.
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Use a screwdriver and the heel of your hand to undo the cap.
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I was talking generically, never having done aTY exhaust, we had to do our road bikes fairly frequently running at 16:1 as they were.
The area you have highlighted looks like the most likely spot to me - I would do the back side for the sake of appearance. I imagine old TY exhausts must be available cheaply on the net, given that most Yams seem to use alloy systems now, if you overdo things.
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We used to bung up one end of an exhaust then fill it with caustic soda solution to decoke it. Will need repacking after that of course.
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