2stroke4stroke

Fetch it along to Kidlaw on Sunday and we can have a look.

Indeed, i know someone who had problems as the inspector was clued up enough to spot period Norton forks on a BSA (a standard mod in the day).

Will it go if you bump start it down the hill when hot?

You could always put a tube in if sealing is a problem, if you really like the tyre that much.

I'm sure you'll get some response to that one jossy.

I used a Dremel to remove the glue - cuts the time. Putting the bike against a wall is a bit brutal, I thought motocrossers lacked mechanical sympathy☺. Engage first, whilst pushing off with the foot, keep the clutch lever held in and go up the box. When you hit fourth the clutch will free and you can release the lever.

I thoroughly recommend No Toil Filter Oil. Washes out easily with washing powder in water so can be done in the sink yet works well (you will know the old saying that involves a blanket).

I meant to say - there is plenty info on the web about making a bead breaker from two lengths of old timber and a hinge.

If you get round to changing the airbox then I have a new and unused 2003 rear guard surplus to requirements.

A trials rider needs to be able to fit tyres or one day will be stranded with a puncture. Best to get the experience at home rather than on a moor somewhere in pouring rain - the dealer won't be there (well, he might, but you know what I mean). Front on Rev 3 should be tubed with rear tubeless, There are many posts on here about getting the rim strip to seal if difficulty is encountered.

You'll never get that passed by the authenticity scrutineers☺

I suppose the problem with supply of used Vertigos is that people actually have to buy new Vertigos in order for them to become secondhand Vertigos. I think I could count on my left digits the number I have seen or heard of in "private" hands. Is there a less popular marque on the current market? I don't count Jgas as being on the market.

Eurocarb usually give good advice. https://www.dellorto.co.uk

Couldn't just be getting too hot in the current ambient temperatures, requiring a bit of adjustment, could it?

For what you are doing you could consider something like a Continental TKC 80 if it will fit in the swinging arm. Though a Maxxis Trialmaxx or Pirelli MT43 would probably be better. The ET01 claims to be a proper trials tyre (I have no experience of them) in which case they may be no better than the 803 for wear.

In the days when I rode metal tanked bikes I covered vulnerable parts in clear Fablon. Worked a treat and could be replaced as necessary.

Apart from not using the locknut in order to prevent tearing the valve from the tube due to creep (which happens even with security bolts) you could also elongate the valve hole in the rim to allow room for movement.

Having owned a Beta in the past (for 12 years) I would say that sounds normal. Try running without a tickover, as we used to do decades ago, and the noise should disappear. It is the inevitable result of allowing mixture in to the motor on the overrun. Having satisfied yourself on that you can set the tickover to suit then just enjoy riding the thing.

As far as I am aware the only real changes came in 2009 with that year having different steering and a proper exhaust that did not have bungs to play permutations with, then again with the introduction of the 260 (which I found a bit softer off the bottom than my 09 when I tried one). If you ignore sticker changes there has not been much to report - perhaps they got it very nearly right the first time?

Yes, grinder or file - you may need to add weld to build up the teeth if badly worn. Ensure the rests don't droop, ideally they should be just above the horizontal when viewed from front or rear. You can't ride properly if you are trying to stop your feet sliding off angled pegs.

Front forks and gearbox for a start, probably rear suspension unit too. Possibly fork yokes.

I know there used to be a lot of "performance enhancement" going on in the 70's world championships but it was not so easy to conceal seeing as the substances were generally packaged in pint containers☺

Leaving the sections aside, there's really only one way to become good at crossing miles of moor at a reasonable speed and that is to practice crossing miles of moor at a reasonable speed - not so easily achieved with most modern trials being as they are. The less your riding ability then the more you really need to be physically fit in order to finish - lifting a bike about wastes a lot of energy (watch the Ross Noble programmes, he was puggled to say the least and that was a dry year). I would suggest a structured training regime in the weights room. In the days when I rode the Scottish I was fortunate enough to be able to join in with just such a two nights a week, motorcycle specific, organised scheme. I still have the training schedule if it is of interest. Also, do it sooner rather than later. Better to look back on a "bad" Scottish than never do one.

I can't believe an original set up would have the airbox drawing air directly from the back tyre as that photo seems to show. Is this some previous owner's misguided mod?

I suppose I tend to Solarflares viewpoint generally as regards buying a finely honed machine then trying to make it something it isn't. Even in the context of limited bikes on the market designed to suit the real abilities of many riders, including me may I say. However, with specific regard to the Vertigo, surely one of the benefits of sophisticated EFI is the ability to adjust the response of the machine to suit the rider by programming rather than messing about with the fundamentals of the motor. Head inserts? Base gaskets? If these achieved any significant effect then the ECU would probably need reprogrammed anyway to cope with the changed parameters, so best to start with reprogramming. It would be nice to think that the manufacturer of the dearest and most sophisticated two stroke on the market would be interested in providing either info or programming to purchasers.