2stroke4stroke

A chance conversation last night revealed that getting water in the 4RT injector can ruin that. If that is the case here then perhaps the bike's brain has shut down the sparks, sensing that the injector ain't working?

Three and a half turns out is a starting point for tickover setting if I recall a previous post. Turn yours in and note how many turns so you can return to what you have if need be.

I knew someone years ago who secured a large baulk of timber to swing like a battering ram if someone opened the garage door. Unfortunately he wasn't quick enough the night he came home late and a bit befuddled from the pub without his house key and did not want to disturb his parents by climbing in a window .............. There's worse things than a false alarm☺

Securing a bike to a trailer can not possibly damage a fork seal (unless you attach a hook at that point and physically damage it). The forks are designed to go through their full travel. Pressure build up? I run 80 psi and 180 psi respectively in the forks and rear unit on my mountainbike. I suppose if your forks spent hundreds of hours fully compressed it might eventually have some effect on the spring but I doubt it's worse than constant use.

There must be loads of these lying under workshop benches in the UK. Might be worth an advert on TC after investigating postage charges?

The 348 was a considerable step up in quality at the time with a good coating on the frame, chain tubes, small rear sprocket, grippy grips, alloy (large diameter, nothing's new) bars, folding alloy brake and gear pedals, good air filtration, excellent mudguards - and fast on the road. As I recall, the frame was reinforced at the steering head after the first batch; indeed the only one I can remember breaking was Rob Shepherd's in the Scottish. Must have been an interesting day for the guys who went to retrieve it.

Lidl/Aldi/Decathlon for mountainbike gloves.

I would say that if a bike is on its side such that only the bar end is visible (as I gather from a third party was the case here) water could find its way in through breathers etc. I wouldn't be taking a chance, but the poster says he has "chased the water out the oil" whatever that may mean.

I would say that they should be adjusted to suit the preference of the rider consistent with the necessary clearances to operate the hydraulics.

Trials ain't snow mobiling and the power factor is less relevant, and certainly not in the proportion you quote. My 4RT has beefier power than the 200 Beta I had before but I can't say either is/was lacking. I had a shot on a 250 TRS and was most impressed with the clean carburetion.

At that age the low tension coil can give trouble too.

I think you'll find that club trials are "proper competition trials", I find the increasing tendency of more recent riders to adopt the attitude that the rules don't apply at these events but still return a rather fictitious punch card (relating to second goes at sections and missing the markers etc etc) and regard their score as a real result more than a little annoying. I don't know how long you've been riding but it's true to say that one never stops learning at competitive events.

I cant see anything in the ACU standing regs about being required to leave a section except where requested by the observer under stop allowed rules for "unnecessary delay". My opinion is that we are all entitled to continue after stopping in order to get a go at the rest of the section for familiarity the next lap. Real strugglers (including me at some trials) tend to go out the side to conserve energy anyway.

I don't think you've typed what you meant to say there......... I've never seen one on a trials bike like that, on the exit, though my experience of modern bikes is only Rev3 and 4RT. Earlier machines I had all were filtered on the entry. But, given that the filter is made specifically for the bike, no matter whether concave or convex, the dirty side should be the coarse face, its purpose being to stop the "sma' coals" before they reach the fine filter.

The Jitsie 4RT filter is also made "the wrong way round" but, looking on their website, those for most other bikes are as you would expect. I can't see what difference it would make where the filter is in relation to entrance/exit of the box as you would surely want the coarse side facing the incoming air regardless, if it was to serve any useful filtration purpose.

Running until the motor stops does not fully empty the float bowl. There's enough left to cause gumming problems if left long enough.

BP website seems to be silent on the ethanol content but it depends where in the country you buy petrol as to exact ethanol content. Deeper investigation has BP saying Ultimate will never have greater than 5% ethanol content until January 2017. Presumably it's gone up since then.

Assuming you're in the UK and stuck with ethanol fuel unless you are prepared to pay for Aspen, in which case you can afford to pay a mechanic anyway, I would definitely drain the carb if it is going to stand for two months just to be safe (cleaning the gunk out the carb is a real pain). I never bother with the tank for a period like that but if the bike won't start then you will need fresh petrol as it loses volatility. But it is easily drained at that time if necessary. A few years ago a pal was selling a TY 250 that had lain unused for about 8 years - it started second kick on the fuel that had been in the tank. Proper petrol.

The front box is indeed a silencer and, like the rear one, will need to be repacked once you have done the burning. This means cutting a flap in the back of it then welding up again. I did this with my 348 all those years ago and it made a big difference to the running of the motor - smoother bottom end meaning I could pull a higher gear in marginal conditions.

Looks like you're right. I had a clear memory of his having won - perhaps it was best foreign rider that year.

Can't remember the year but he also once won the Scottish.

Apart from being the same model there is one other thing in common - the petrol. Try using different petrol just in case, but as stated, you really should be going back to the dealer before taking anything apart.

If you have the decompressor open at all then the bike won't start. You need to let it go part way through the kick, once over compression. I had a 348 in tne day and found no need for a decompressor, but there was a technique. Unless you have an injury or problem that prevents you giving a full kick then you should be able to develop this so you don't need the decompressor. I'd guess the electrics as 6 volt from memory.

Long ago we judged it by running with an open carb and if putting your finger against the slide stopped a rattle then it was well past replacement time.