2stroke4stroke

I'm just wanting to get it off to paint it - looks like stator removal is the way, thanks.

It takes a bit of effort to get the casing off anyway due to the magnetic effect on the coils - I doubt you'd succeed with the additional friction of the rubber squeezed agin the sumpguard to avoid its removal. But casing only has to come off to do the filter so you can just drain every second change if you wish. You'll know, of course, that the gearbox oil is separate and also needs changing at intervals. I mention this as I heard about someone who bought a 4RT where the previous owner had been assiduous in changing the oil - except he had only ever done the gearbox oil, being unaware of any other. The new owner found the filter had long since collapsed. Some expenditure was required to repair the damage. Has anyone ever discovered how to undo the wiring connector to allow full removal of the casing?

It's surprising how often trees come in exactly the length required☺ And how using the petrol tap allows you to just lay the bike on its side.

Maybe the use of toffee is as sacrificial protection for the threads in the motor?

Don't run away with the idea that electronic ignition necessarily guarantees a future free of trouble (I agree it should do but the quality components do not seem to be there). Once sorted your points system should be fine. There's plenty electronic ignition woes expressed on here.

Fork seals should be easy, as for the rest I would guess you might be as well following a rocking horse round with a shovel. They weren't exactly popular at the time so parts were never common even then.

It's not the number of gears that matters but what those gears are. A pal, who was a better rider than me, could not keep up with my 200 Beta over the rough on his TYZ engined Scorpa until he lowerered the gearing when it became an even match. I seem to recall riders managing to cross the Scott moors fairly rapidly with four speed boxes..............

I almost always used the low first on my Beta. I miss a sixth gear on my 4RT only because I would prefer the closer spacing on cross country going. The last bike I owned that had a "proper" top gear was the 348.

Which is what Arai recommend.

I'd have the dealer sort it out at 6 hours old.

There are two places in the UK that can replace such components. Easily found by a search as I don't think I am permitted to name them on the forum.

This pretty much sums up my 4RT in that starting is unpredictable, always requires more than just a push and needs several resets during a trial. Just why correctly set up injected machines should differ from each other I can't figure out. A friend who has a disability moved from a Beta 250 to a 4RT due to the supposed ease of starting but he really struggled. He's now on a 200 Beta with no problems.

Interesting.

You've sussed it.

True Nigel, but it solves the problem for most folk and is not difficult to redo should spoke tension need adjusting. I can't recall having to tension a spoke for at least twenty years but the tape had to come off anyway the one time I had to get a professional to get rid of a buckle, so no probs to redo the Heldite on the affected spokes. Do any trials manufacturers still use this type of rim I wonder, surely they all use the flanged type now so the problem will eventually reduce.

I have to agree with the sentiments above, don't destroy it; they're not making any more! You can cut up any old TLR. Apart from that, the mods you intend to carry out would seem pointless on such a gutless slug (you make no mention of pepping up the motor). I was out two weeks ago with a pal who rides a Reflex and it was not capable of keeping up with my SL 230 (and that is as flat as a fart) at 45 mph when the road took a slight turn upward. I think you'll be disappointed and, more to the point, get next to nothing for it, compared to an unmolested one, when you decide to move it on as a result. It's your business of course but I always find it a shame when people mangle rare old bikes when the same, or better, could be achieved by starting with something less precious. If hrtdoug can point me to one of the zillions I'd be very grateful, as I'd love to have one.

Edited due to double post.

Years ago someone on here recommended the use of Heldite - paint it on the nipples below the rim band - it certainly worked when I tried it.

In the days when I had an outfit the observing was remarkably generous. As long as the suspension was being violently bounced whilst at a standstill it seemed a five was not given. But I have not been at an event in recent years to know what it's like now.

I suspect it's the all too common marketing BS - they can't be seen to be selling the absolute same bike two years running so they tinker with stuff that has no real effect. Because I had one I tend to read the changes to Beta and something that was "improved" one year is "improved" again and couched in terms implying the previous year was deficient. Whether anyone can tell the difference is a moot point. Even Montesa are at it now when, to me as an owner, one of their strong points was that changes were not made every year.

I seem to recall hearing that the Comerfords supported guys were putting a new slide in the Bing every four events to keep 'em in tune.

I don't think you'll turn back the clock on that one. Up until sometime in the late Sixties or early Seventies as I recall, the ACU did not allow the wearing of sponsors logos etc. I guess it was the need for sponsorship money on a wider scale that changed that.

I still "have" a Wakelin Ward one piece.

In relation to no comment in particular, it is necessary to consider the effect of whatever you use on the structure of the helmet - which is why the makers suggest pH neutral shampoo. No point paying a couple of hundred quid then melting the thing.

On the two strokes It's usually the spring link hitting the head of the bolt securing the chain tensioner, it only has to slacken a fraction for contact to occur. It may be similar on the fourstroke. Check the bolt. Fitting the connecting link with the horseshoe inboard gives a bit more clearance.