2stroke4stroke

You might find the mains making funny noises in due course.

Sadly, if you have transported it home, let alone taken time to photo it, without draining it and getting it running then you are probably too late to avoid damage. The essential bit is to get it running and hot in order to evaporare off all the moisture before rust starts. Bent conrod is another matter of course.

I seem to recall some people extending the slot fully to an open end in order to be able to remove the wheel in the event of a puncture once the spindle bent, though clearly that's not what has happened to yours. The third bearing conversion was not foolproof as the too small diameter spindle would still bend but just be more difficult to remove with the extra bearing. A top rider here got a spindle made up in stainless; it sheared. I found it intriguing that the 21st Century Ossa also had a badly designed rear wheel setup.

The more waves the lighter, compared to a blank disc. And I daresay there is some surface cleaning effect from the edges.

Other than gearing up for the Scottish, this is the first I've heard of anyone wanting to change the Rev 3 gearing, having run one for 12 years and spoken with many owners over that time. If you have standard gearing (see my earlier comments on rear sprocket size) then your gearing can not be "set up wrong"; it might not suit some particularly odd going (no idea where you are) or someone else's personal preference but it does not cost much to try a 9 so by all means give it a go. With standard gearing on my 200 I could use fifth in some sections, which does not suggest overgearing. Let us know how you get on but if gearing is too low you might not get enough go when you need it.

The way advertised prices have been going I think it is a forlorn hope to find the level of condition you want at that price.

Who's suggesting that? 11 is standard and many find first a bit low at that. I know someone who had several over the years and never went lower then second. I tend to ride too slowly and always found first okay. 9 would just be absurd and I don't really know what you would achieve using a 10 (assuming you have the standard rear sprocket; 42 for the 200, 41 for the bigger ones).

Or consider that a TYZ was the best part of £4500 in the mid Nineties if my memory of a pricetag on a stall at the SSDT is correct. Perhaps more of a valid comparator as far as bikes go?

I would let it go to someone who would appeciate an unmolested roadgoing C15; there's enough bikes being cannibalised as it is. As you don't seem to be in a hurry you should be able to find one that someone else has converted or part converted leaving your conscience clear.

Partly so, but have you seen the price of the stickers if you need to replace 'em? Appeal of a design is very much a personal thing but I still think the Repsol scheme looks like a child had access to too many crayons. I'll ask my graphic artist pal in the pub later on.

I think your local shop is missing out on money for old rope, such jobs are routine basics to any professional and much easier on a trials bike than the typical road bike. A local will probably appear after teatime with a recommendation.

I certainly would not let colour rule over "performance" in its broad sense but it would take a lot of persuasion before I went for a Repsol scheme which, in my opinion, is a mess, the original 260 red and silver being much better. But then again, if I was to be advertising an oil company, I would want them to be paying me rather then me paying a premium for the graphics. Yours CR Mudgeon

What do you mean by "do work on it"? If you mean routine maintenance then you should be able to do it yourself if you have any mechanical competence at all. I'm sure youtube must have plenty videos covering the basics if you need guidance. But there must be plenty trials dealers in the Midlands. Locals will no doubt be on soon to give some suggestions.

Clearly it doesn't have much effect then?

The idea of having replaceable pins, rather than using a few strokes of a file on steel pegs (not a problem to me), to keep things sharp sounds like a good idea in theory. However, as I discovered with the mountainbike pedals, actually getting the old pins out can be a problem as they tend to sieze in; you'll be lucky to get an Allen key in the burred over pin and there often is not enough meat left to get a grip with molegrips. I have seen very wide steel rests but don't know who makes them.

I imagine all sorts of scrap plastic items could be cut to size and fixed with plastic ties in a similar fashion to the photo above. Or, shock horror, buy some plastic sheet and do likewise.

The recommended ratio by Fantic back in the day on a then ordinary oil was 50 to 1 (don't know about the 303 but earlier models had the measure in the filler cap). No need for full synthetic really as any oil nowadays should be superior to that of 35 years ago.

Just do what the factory (all factories) should have done and fit the grease nipples as you say.

Given a good inline filter and not firing water in to the carb with a pressure washer there should be no real need to mess about with a carb once you have it set to your liking (but worth draining it if you intend to leave the bike unused for a while).

There is a longrange tank seat available for the Beta and it is by far the best for greenlaning in that the exhaust is near silent - something which can not be said for either Montesa offering. Notwithstanding that Amos Bilbao finished the SSDT on a Four Ride, using one in a trial is not something I would wish on a beginner.

If your enduro experience means you have come in and found you are getting good results for a beginner then maybe, otherwise the money is better spent on riding more trials (and perhaps a tyre). At four years old there should not be much wrong with the original.

That depends - have you negotiated a second mortgage?☺

If you raise the gearing by fitting a bigger front sprocket then you can quickly and easily restore trials gearing for an event.

You do well to be worried as I don't think there will be a difference. I won't embarrass the guilty by naming them but if you are keen you can find on youtube the video showing replacement of two bent 4RT conrods.

So am I - ref the apparent recommendation of a fourstroke oil for a twostroke according to craigh88's quoted info. I'd be fairly sure that is not what Beta UK will be selling, or recommending, because their sponsor will have something thought to be better suited.