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Which depends on who is currently sponsoring them, not on the oil itself.
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Possibly that but also do not tighten the pinch bolt on the bottom of the fork leg until you have tightened the wheel spindle nut and then bounced forks up and down. It is possible to draw the bottom of the legs together otherwise, taking the forks slightly out of parallel, which can have disastrous consequences when hitting a bump. Check now - take my word for it.
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The "standard" arm is the trials one. Have you found the handling deficient?
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No matter what you cover it with it will still obviously be a bike to the eyes you want to hide it from - have you ever seen anything else carried behind a car on such a rack as that? The bars are rather hard to disguise.
You do right to be concerned - many years ago I obtained a tarpaulin and had a sailmaker make it in to covers for the bike and front wheel to protect against salt spray on the trailer, you could do similar.
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From distant memory I seem to think that the Montesa suffered from being a bit long in the wheelbase, could be wrong. It would be a case of balancing the extra suspension suppleness with turning capability.
More expert opinion will no doubt follow.
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That says an awful lot indeed., after all these years.
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The only easy things to check are the filter below the pump and the vent on the petrol cap. Anything else is probaby a diagnostics job.
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Dead easy. Drain oil and pull casing as per manual. You will probably need a new gasket as the old one will be stuck - grease the new one and it should release next time.
Undo bolt holding filter in then wiggle it to come past the flywheel (if Honda increased the chamfer a fraction it would be easier). Put grease in the blind recess in the back of the filter to hold the spring in place then reassemble per manual.
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Did you get absolutely all of any corrosion out from the seal groove?
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Now red, white, blue and rust brown☺ I assume the seals need renewed and, as you say, a simple job, if the seals are a standard obtainable size. I've never been inside them but they are probably a bit cruder than the Fox mountainbike ones I have worked on.
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Correctly assumed pmk. Put 150 in though it gradually leaked out but the units still performed well. No doubt a stripdown would be in order.
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I seem to recall that something of the sort was experimented with some years ago. I daresay the technology would be better now but is it really what we want to see?
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Does the continuous tone rule not only apply to vehicles of an age after the date when this rule was revised? A pre'65 should be ok with a bulb horn? Not that a tester would be likely to know or consider this.
I've always found it puzzling, for a safety related test, that it should be acceptable for a tyre to be presented in a "damaged" state, the wall having received the attentions of a buff. I don't see how you could remove the writing without leaving marks.
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I would try 71zman's wiggle first, it won't cost anything if it does not work.
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I did wonder why you were stripping the whole thing just to remove two springs...........
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Once you start using it properly and there is a bit of airflow round the casings it may be a bit cooler in that area.
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'Fraid I can't help with that. Beta UK did have photos on doing timing which might show this.
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Have you got the backplate in the correct position? Use the old screw marks as a guide.
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It's nice to have something a bit different but, frankly, I would heed Breagh's advice and employ the proverbial bargepole.
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I wouldn't worry too much about precise tickover, just set it to what suits you once you have had a chance to get used to the bike.
I almost always used first on my Beta, but depended on section type as it could pull fourth if needed: it is very much a personal thing depending in riding style.
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From (distant) memory, clutch was 250cc and gearbox 550 but someone will know exactly. I think you could do better than a 30 in the clutch, given modern oils.
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The cheap hour meters don't seem to last very long. I have no idea if the "better" ones at £35 are any improvement on that (but would like to hear from anyone with experience of them).
You just wrap the wire round the plug lead - but the Beta is not so critical that you can't just estimate the time each week.
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What really matters is whether the clutch works when riding. As you have been in there we now know all appears well visually and there will be oil in the casing.
Start it up and push off as stated above but hold the clutch lever in all the time as you work up the gearbox - it will probably free off when you hit fourth gear. If not then keep riding round with the lever in until it does.
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Nice to get the chance to start from scratch and ensure the "PDI" gets done properly - grease every thread you can get at.
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I wouldn't be too hard on the previous owner - packing out the shoes was standard practice in the old days, especially where the cam did not have a splined fitting.
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