2stroke4stroke

Perhaps in the laboratory but under real life trialling conditions not necessarily the case.

Depends on the tank size, obviously, but my 4RT uses more petrol than did my 200 Beta in normal trials use. The SSDT petrol guys confirm that the 4RT is thirstier than the two strokes.

I see Boris is on our side - we're sunk now.

I think you'll find that even a race circuit is regarded as a place to which the public has access. Two or three years ago someone was successfully prosecuted on those grounds for riding without insurance (I think the charge of riding whilst under a ban, having had his licence removed, failed) when he was seen riding in the pits and reported to the authorities by someone who must have had an axe to grind. He had not signed in as required so the event cover did not apply, he had no personal cover.

I did know someone many years ago with a Beta fourstroke who was not aware that it had a well hidden button, I think to assist with hot starts (whatever it was it was not the choke). It ran properly once that was in the correct position.

I had a go on a 200 (actually only 160) when it was part of the range a long time ago and it was not a patch on my 200 Beta of the time. Not much use as a reply perhaps but just to make you aware that it may not be the improvement you anticipate, but I can't compare it to the 125.

If you do a search on Allie Beag Cameron you may turn something up by way of photos.

Beta UK website used to have photos of timing setup. It may still do.

There are plenty modern bike trials that use easier sections than we used to ride on Bultacos and Montesas and twinshocks are just another class in the event. I've seen so few twinshock specific trials that I can't say one way or the other generally but the Kia round I observed at would have challenged a few on modern bikes.

Best prices vary all the time, you really need to search about on the day, so to speak.

Long, long ago I worked for a company where the workshop was most effectively heated by a salamander which burned whatever was available (you'll probably need to search for photos if you're under sixty), often old sump oil. Remarkably, no conflagrations ensued.

Look like Gas Girlings to me. If the damper rods bend for no apparent reason, ie without being subject to a blow, then they are definitely Girlings. Don't think Betor did gas units then but if you put them with the damper rod uppermost then they will not damp if they are Girlings which were designed to be used with the body uppermost.

I don't know about your bike but some front sprockets can be turned round occasionally to even out the wear. Back when I was doing a lot more riding than now I ran two chains and swapped them every couple of trials which helped extend chain and sprocket life.

Well found Spen!

There is a device called the Superspout that claims to fit all containers.

Indeed it would have been useful if 12Mont had come back to let us know if he had any success. Is he out there somewhere?

Interesting. If anyone is looking for a book to put on their Christmas list then I thoroughly recommend Kevin Cameron's Sportbike Performance Handbook (as a very informative publication for those with an interest in any sort of motorcycle) or Top Dead Center, being a collection of his monthly columns.

Does the original tap actually work? Could be a mod to overcome a problem with that.

Don't you mean the best running bike you never ride :-), you will insist on riding that old wee Scorpa TY fourstroke and beating everyone. You could at least reduce the embarassment factor by using the Ossa to beat 'em.

I suppose it depends what you mean by reliability. The Japanese bikes brought in an era where you knew you were unikely to suffer a breakdown during a trial and they did not require an enormous amount of maintenance. The monoshock Yam was indeed the apogee. Watercooling (or rather the minimal capacity of the systems) has brought problems and frame cracking seems more common nowadays but is the price we pay for wanting the absolute lightest. Electrics are not as dependable as they once were seemingly due to poor quality components (cheapness again it seems). However we have now reached the point where definition comes in - is a clutch that requires (as seems to be the case) the overall plate thickness to be within a fraction of a millimeter a reliability issue? Or just complexity for the sake of it.

Rather than placing up against a wall and coarsely banging it in to gear try holding the clutch in and pushing the bike off slightly with your foot as you engage bottom, then, with the lever still held in, work your way up the gearbox. It should free off when you reach fourth.

If you are still on standard 10/41 gearing you might consider lowering it. With standard bottom gear the bike does tend to leap off a bit from very low speed.

Now that I think of it I have a pair of mudguards too. Perhaps I need to find a frame and motor.

I'm sure you could test some scrap domestic plastic for petrol resistance then just put a bit in the depression, held in place by the teabag, to prevent rust being drawn in to the pump.

I'm sure you could test some scrap domestic plastic for petrol resistance then just put a bit in the depression, held in place by the teabag, to prevent rust being drawn in to the pump.