2stroke4stroke

You would imagine that the 125 might be more lightly sprung, given that much of its target market must be about your weight, but I have never seen this mentioned in any of the specs or announcements about models.

Wiggling needs to be done with the front wheel held, usually between the legs, or not much will happen.

Could be worse - someone did that to a 4RT this weekend.

I've never used these but the reason for the screwed in pins is to allow replacement to maintain the vital grip on the boots. My experience with these pins on mountain bike pedals is that they sieze in and you won't easily get them out, you might even damage the rest such that you can't fit new pins, though others may have experience to the contrary. Being softer the alloy wears, as far as I can tell from looking at other bikes, leading to the rests drooping down at the ends which does not help your control. If you really feel the standard rests are not wide enough I would suggest you get a loop welded on the rear edge - the saving over the alloys will go a good way towards a new tyre when the time comes? Keeping the steel rests sharp only needs the occasional stroke of a file.

Kevin will no doubt have experience to back up what he says but I ran Silkolene for many years on a Beta with no problems. I genuinely would like to know what the problem with it might be. More importantly, when I used Ipone the markings on the bottle were very inaccurate, to the point of possibly being detrimental to the motor on a lean ratio. Notwithstanding that it's a good idea to measure accurately with a syringe or suchlike anyway.

He could be quite good one day if he sticks at it☺

There is a reason why the 125 feels that way, it's due to the lighter crank/flywheels causing less gyroscopic effect apparently and the effect is reported to be noticeable on road bikes that differ in motor size but otherwise similar.

There is only one piece of advice that most will give - get straight back to the dealer as it seems this came about after the service?

Have you got good flow of air through the filter then on to the carb?

I make a point of not riding other bikes in case I end up wanting one! That's how I ended up with a 4RT in the first place☺

I had the tensioner on mine out recently for similar reasons. For the benefit of others, there is no need to make up a tool. I found that if I wound the plunger in with a screwdriver then held it there by hand I could insert a hexagonal screwdriver bit and lock it on the flutes of the access tube then release it once the tensioner was bolted bsck in place.

I looked back to check my recall Steve and, technically, you are right; owners said it was a case of draining the coolant, disconnecting various bits and pieces then pivoting the motor round the swingarm pivot. Reported as being three hours worth but I daresay it won't need doing too often in practice once an owner gets the feel for how the gaps change over time. I'd like to know if there is an easier way as I'd consider one for my next bike.

My comment was based on brand new bikes not tampered with. It's possible those you rode had been adjusted to suit each owner?

I gather it's a motor out job to check the valve clearances on the Beta whereas the Mont is easily accessible, which may or may not concern you. I know someone who has run a 1300 or so tickover for years and reports no problems but I've not tried it myself.

As you are, like me, older, it's perhaps unlikely you will be riding the sort of sections where the, effectively minute, differences in suspension might become evident. The different tyres you might notice depending how sensitive you are to these things. Having ridden both standard and Repsol 260s at a test day I was not able to detect any difference; both have very plush suspension and, as far as I am aware, the same state of tune for the motor. My personal opinion is that the standard red (as was) looks a lot better than the Repsol colours but I don't look at the bike when I'm riding it so that does not really matter. I'm sure I could make use of the seat on the standard at times such as when backmarking trials involving roadwork. No doubt others more knowledgeable (apart from the above my regular use is of an older standard 250) will be able to give more detailed advice.

There was a thread a while back where someone had solved this by replacing a seal but I can't remember the detail. Worth a search?

It depends on what sort of going you ride and your riding style I suppose. I got mine a year ago and found the standard too high in very rough burns and on nadgery bankings but I am not an enthusiastic clutch user. I also tend to ride too slowly at times. Because it was easy to do I went to the 9 tooth and it was fine but such a small sprocket is a bit cruel on the chain. Come new chain time I went to 10/43 which is near enough halfway between 9 and 10 on the 41 tooth rear and have found this a good compromise. At my second event I quizzed someone about gearing - he told me he was on the standard gearing and never used first - that certainly explained his FTD progress in the sections!

I used the Silkolene in my Beta for a while (after several years on various ATFs) with no issues but it causes drag on the 4RT. When you compare the centistoke readings with the Elf you can see why.

There is nothing different about a manufacturer introducing changes on a new model months after the previous model but this is where we discover how well the unique Vertigo sales model works.If I understand it correctly (am I right?) you can't trade in your young in months "old" model for the new improved one, but how keen will potential purchasers be to buy from you what those who care about these things see as the outdated one?

ACU Regs demand that a helmet used in trials meets the roadgoing standard. I know my Airoh does and would assume that the others do too, but no doubt owners can confirm.

I think the TYZ was the only bike with an expansion tank - partly why they were so well suited to the Scottish.

The structured licensing system first came in due to lobbying by an Edinburgh motorcycle dealer but has been developed by the "EU" over the years. I feel there is a need for some sort of graduated licensing system but it does seem to be growing ever more complex (to doubtful benefit). And there should be similar restrictions for car drivers too. On a slightly different tack, the EU brought in a need to test an emergency manouevre at 31 mph, meaning it could not be be done here due to the 30 mph limit round most or all test centres. Instead of telling the EU that we would do ours at 30 mph thank you very much, the Government spent a fortune on building a mere handful of off the highway test centres many miles away from a lot of potential candidates, which made it too inconvenient for many. I'm sure similar trivial (but surely avoidable) stupidities as this 1 mph difference have had a disproportionate effect on many aspects of life in Britain and one does wonder if it is an accumulation of this sort of thing that has lead enough people as to make a difference, otherwise perhaps not disinclined towards the idea of "Europe", to have wanted to leave.

You should be able to remove the barrel with the motor insitu but, presumably due to a combination of production tolerances, I was not able to do so with my Beta as the top motor mount fouled the underside of the tank. Good luck with the sumpguard if you end up having to remove the motor.

I have to say copemech that I read the list of improvements with a wry smile.

Electronic media does not always convey these things well but I can't notice 80 euros worth of difference in the noise level or annoyance factor.