2stroke4stroke

I use silicon seal (which I always have "in stock"). It only has to hold it until the plate is in place after all.

On a more serious note I would certainly go over the bike with the spanners to check all is tight.

Boom tsssh!

I don't follow your logic. My theory is that a tall rider can move his weight further forward and back to control grip/front wheel rearing. Whilst the riders CoG will be higher his weight still operates through the footrests so if we assume he is heavier than a short rider then the CoG of the bike is effectively fractionally lower. It will be the position of the CoG of the bike that affects front end lightness? Discuss☺

If the bike had been lying with petrol in the carb you may need to repeat the clean you gave it. Stale petrol is very tenacious and blocks passageways, might be worth getting an ultrasonic clean?

The 125 silencer was a bit more restrictive than that on the 175 and could be choked. Find a road in the middle of nowhere and try running without it?

Apparently my local dealer is selling 5 a week which might indicate a possible glut on the secondhand market if owners change back to a twostroke (there being little point in changing from a used 260 to a new one within several years).

Helmet needs to meet the requirements for road use and bear the appropriate numbers in whatever form they use nowadays. Unless you have an old one with a then current sticker/standard as there is no age limit, though caution may say otherwise.

Helmet needs to meet the requirements for road use and bear the appropriate numbers in whatever form they use nowadays.

As you have discovered, the bike is grossly overgeared with 12, I think, being the standard front size (not sure about the rear). It's a wonder you can use it in trials going (if you do). I don't know why it would have been changed so drastically. I assume still on the 420 chain? I seem to recall someone trying one tooth up from standard in the day but can't recall how satisfactory that was in terms of trials use. You could always work out the overall ratio in each gear then choose sprockets to match what you know the bike will pull. I'm sure you can get the necessary info to do this from the net.

The TY is a rather short bike. As Scottie said, "Ye cannae beat the Laws o' Physics". If you can't master it then extending the wheelbase is the way to go.

The Fantic petrol cap had an oil measure on it I think. Or get a large syringe, which will be less than 27 dollars; free if you know a trials riding doctor or vet?

If you keep your eyes open there's scrap plastic all over the place. I found a broken council household bin on the beach. The bit I rescued kept me going in chain tensioner blades for years. A sharks fin should be easy to make. There's monie a mickle maks a muckle as the saying goes.

50 to 1 was the Fantic recommendation in the day.

Has anyone discovered a match for the paint on the clutch case on an 09 model?

I recall waiting at a junction on my way to school on the Bultaco when it hiccuped and when I let the clutch out I reversed in to my French teacher's car. Fortunately, even a four ply 400 by 18 was fairly soft.

I must have the old rules somewhere in the attic but, as I recall, they said you could not cross your own path. This was eventually dropped when it was seen to be incompatible with the then new stop allowed rules. Eventually replaced with something like "no looping".

Silkolene advised me to use 50 to 1 (TY 200) unless in heavy going such as deep sand when 40 to 1. Worked fine and also in my SWM. I never found any deep sand to strain the motor. But did have to cover three miles or so flat out in bottom with a clogged front wheel (I gave up stopping every two bike lengths to clear it) and no apparent ill effects at 50 to 1.

I don't think anyone else has had a problem with the standard gearing so will have no alternative advice to offer. Though some used to go up a tooth for the SSDT, but that is a different matter.

Ypu don't want a warm feeling in the ignition. Electronic systems have been known to suffer with electric welding. Take care.

Funnily enough, the Lothian Trials Club events, aimed at beginners from the start, initially brought out a lot (comparatively) of interesting old monos both air and water cooled. Folk seem to have moved on to new Monts and Ossas. Is there a message somewhere in that?

On your TY the guard had two tubes between it and the motor so did not have the opportunity to get very bent.

Perhaps the private owner would be amenable to allowing viewing for a small fee? Seems reasonable to me.

My Beta does this from time to time - it is the wider joining link in the chain striking the head of the rear brake pedal bolt. Yours may be something similar.

You are no doubt correct but, outwith the Michelin laboratory or unless ridden by a famous Yorkshire rider at the extremities of grip, how much is the extra flexure of 1.5mm of soft rubber really going to affect things for most riders (many of whom seldom seem to check tyre pressure anyway) in comparison with steady deflation due to leaky spokes?