2stroke4stroke

Most of them seem to have gone that way. You'll note in the photo linked to above that the 531 sticker is on the steering head. Maybe that's the bit made of 531, the downtubes on mine were apparently not.

Looks very like the Sammy Miller frame I had but as the downtubes haven't yet cracked it may not be?

I was going to do the front two - the rear two had already been fully taped over by the previous owner. .

Ah, thanks. I had noticed the rubber but assumed it was just reinforcement as the previous owner had not "used" it so I have just carried on that way. I alternate it with an Apico element (using the cage) which is all foam and both seem equally good at sealing the airbox. Given the amount of muck that reaches the area, much more than on my Rev 3 for example, it is well tested. And yes I have sealed the gap at the mudguard.

I have seen similar references and am puzzled. My cage just lifts in and out with the foam as easily slotted in to the metal and the top screwed on. Perfectly straightforward. Has mine been altered from standard then?

Hadn't spotted that but there is a difference in when a bike is deemed to be out of a section with the AMCA being very poorly defined in comparison.

I can't help directly but I would have thought that with modern componentry somebody could design a direct lighting setup for you if the battery is "required" with tbe standard system. Loud horns intended for bicycle use are available, if not cheap.

Bathroom scales, front wheel, back wheel, add the two.

Unless they are rarities or you have a great personal attachment I would have thought that the cost of getting them here would be out of proportion to their usefulness. There's no shortage of used bikes over here, though good used bikes may be a different matter, depending on age. There are some remarkably young and scarcely used bikes advertised at times.

Just unscrew the nipple from the top of the plug. It could be that there is not a brilliant connection between plug cap and HT lead. Cut it back slightly then screw the cap back on. Is there a screwed connection at the coil end? I don't recall resistor plugs specified for Fantic so you want neither resistor. I have known bikes with a poor looking spark that ran well for years.

I seem to recall a Bantam years ago where the exhaust was the main frame. No doubt someone will remember who made it.

If you want to find out about a real stuntman and injuries then look up Putt Mossman.

I think your logic is flawed, but it may depend where you live. I remember the stushie when trials fees went up to £7 about thirty years ago. Now we seem to pay a tenner for the average trial. That does not seem like an excessive increase to me.

Something and nothing. They weren't trying to do a backflip at that speed.

Prepare to be seduced.

I will be prepared to take the rubbishy original off your hands and dispose of it in an environmentally sensitive manner

I consulted Silkolene and they said 50 to 1 unless using in sand etc where a bit more was recommended due to the motor working harder. Semi synthetic. Oils are much better now than when we ran 50 to 1 thirty years ago.

The late Ralph Venables had similar ideas but, as nobody was receptive to him, they won't be to you.

Possibly but, given that it was "running great" before, there may be no need?

But slacken the pinch bolts first!

Given the pressures the crank seals are designed to hold at full chat I would expect the bung to be forced out before the seals would fail. Just hold a bit rag lightly over the exhaust if you want to quieten it for the neighbours while running for a short period.

Just as an aside I feel the real value of registration is that it enables identification of historic or significant bikes. Now that so few bikes are registered, let alone that some supported riders seem to use several bikes in a season, we have largely lost the ability to say that a bike is ex so and so or the one that somebody won the Scottish on etc. I feel this is a loss to posterity but probably most folk no longer place the same value on history/provenance with modern bikes? You may well be right about the value. I know someone who had a BSA that had been owned by someone notable (whose name I can’t now recall) but he sold the registration number thus reducing the machine, in my opinion, to just another old BSA.

I stored a TY for a few years and filled the crankcase with oil to prevent corrosion. The bolt was useful when it came time to revive the bike.

The 450 had, as I recall, a totally different motor, all black not that that matters.

A pal bought a Bultaco back in very early Seventies and the numbers did not match. The local dealer said this was something to do with avoiding purchase tax which did not apply if the bike was sold in kit form, which it wasn't. The introduction of value added tax closed that loophole.