2stroke4stroke

Good luck on getting a turnout in February. Is that not the meeting that tends to get cancelled due to lack of interest despite the levels of moaning about the ACU in various media?

Funnily enough I was only last week reading a two year old magazine test of one of these. The general drift was that you can pretty well forget about obtaining parts. Doesn't seem to be Beta's strong suit - year specific bits for early Rev 3s seem to have gone the same way.

The wheel being out of true would not affect the operation of a disc brake. Careless truing of a drum braked wheel could cause distortion of the drum and yes you do true the wheel like a bicycle one.

I always just used a round file but a small section square one would do as well.

I own a Doblo car and two bikes fit in easily as far as space goes. Front wheels sit in the rear footwell and it is necessary to strap the forks in the down position to get enough room to lift the front end over the raised lip to which the seats bolt, then release the pressure for transit if you're fussy. Or lean the bike over to get the clearance which is not easy for one person (but two bikes = two people). This problem probably does not exist with the van but I have not seen inside a van.

I've never heard anything that bad before. I'd suggest a check on the new bearings though it sounds like something loose and moving around.

Not confined to the cheaper models. I recall the story of a Jaguar plagued with an untraceable rattle from new. It was not until the chassis was cut open following a prang that a load of washers strung together with a note from the apprentices about how long it must have taken to find was discovered. Starting in gear was a great advantage of the Bantam but without a five speed box it would never have been a Bultaco beater in terms of sales.

Enough storage space for a glove (apparently) but whereas a trials bike presents its own limitations on use I'm not convinced this sort of bike is a good idea, there being almost nowhere to use it legally. Do we really want to be encouraging the irresponsible to buy a bike and use it "everywhere" as implied? Yours C R Mudgeon

The Fantic kill button as standard earths to the bars. Just take it off the bars but make sure it is well clear when you then try to start the bike.

The sport has moved on so much since the twin shock days, even in fact since early mono days and by building a special you no doubt build in advantages which will seem unfair.[/quote Assuming they stick to drum brakes it's hard to think what advantages could be built in that are not seen on many Fantics that have been recently put together. By the way, I run a bog standard SWM.

When I fived a section in my first trial by trying too hard to avoid a dab I was given some sage advice by a then recent national champion. “Don’t try and clean everything”, he said. I took that to heart and have spent the intervening four decades successfully not cleaning very much at all Self deprecation aside, the advice was good. Once you find your feet, as it were, and have some idea of your capabilities you should plan out where you will need to dab rather than be forced to dab then having more through keeping your feet up too long and ending up in a position you don’t want to be. A judicious dab can avoid a three or five. Once you get a bit better you will know which sections you can clean and progress from there. Don’t forget, the correct tyre pressures make a big difference.

Not everybody wants the problems of owning a 40 year old bike, perhaps.

It's probably more to do with riders coming to it after years on two strokes never having ridden a four stroke than the bike itself?

Nice one :-)

I think you'll struggle to get plushness. Trials forks are plush for trials and motocross forks plush for that but to take the trials fork setup so far beyond its design parameters will cost you certain properties with plushness, I suspect, being the main one.

I'm sure it must be possible to at least adjust the preload on the rear - must be worth trying. Ditto forks, you can cut plastic waste pipe to length to increase preload and use thicker oil?

As I happen to have one on the desk in front of me I can tell you that the 4RT front spindle is 20mm diameter.

Someone on here suggested Heldite and I found that it seals the spoke heads very well. It's made for sealing threaded joints etc.

Or make the bead breaker from old timber - there are examples on the internet. May as well save half the cost of that new tyre!

I used to get good results with Snoseal. The problem is that some stuff is meant for "leather" and can pretty soon turn those expensive boots in to a pair of slippers in terms of protective properties.

I use a Doblo car and previously have used two of the old model Berlingo cars. Two bikes would fit in but given how neat it was,even for one, I'm surprised ,and indeed pleased for future reference, to hear that it is possible to get a bike in to the Nemo.

Whatever it is there'll be a service crew standing by to replace it when it wears out in the middle of an event so not really what we want.

I can't remember the year but there were some vociferous complaints when it was decided that Britain would only get the model with the steel tank and all the lugs on the frame along with the restrictive silencer, most of which was easily remedied. The main beef was that one of the biggest markets for the TY was being sold short by getting the "trail" fork yokes as opposed to the "proper" ones on the pukka trials model.

I'm intrigued. How are you going to find if there's a good spark under compression if the lead is not connected to the plug under compression? What you could use is the Gunson Colourtune mentioned on here the other day.

I'm sure I go against the flow but I find most standard pegs adequately clear the mud and offer sufficient grip. Given the properties above, what else do we need from a footrest? Well, the teeth need to be capable of being kept sharp with a file then easy to weld to start again when the filing has reached its limit. Welding is also required from time to time to keep the rests level or tilted up slightly at the ends. I've seen some very expensive rests pointing to the ground thus offering reduced grip and control. They also need to be soft enough to bend to avoid transmitting undesirable forces to the frame and damaging it (which rules out titanium and possibly alloy), then easily straightened with a bit of heat. All the above seems to point to steel as the best. Weight? The difference is negligible in the context and it would be easy and cheap to lose more off the rider's body. Personally I'd feel a lot more benefit from spending the money on a tire and get some beer (vital replacement of the salts lost during a trial :-) with what's left between the cost of titanium rests and the tyre.