2stroke4stroke

They're waiting for production to catch up with the 6 spare barrels per bike required for the US

Fortunately you are in possession of a test rig in which you can assess the shoes - the front brake. Swap shoes front to back and vice versa and see if the problem/solution moves with the shoes. Assuming the braking surface of the hub is not contaminated then you have nothing to lose.

Petrol off. no choke, full throttle, kick. Repeat as required. Should start. Was standard practice in the 60s/early 70s when bikes would "gas up" frequently if they went over in a section.

I've only ridden a 4RT once, at a test day, so have no experience but the most impressive thing about them for me is the vast amount of nothing their riders have to do whilst passing time in the parc ferme each morning at the Scottish. It's decades since Honda had a bad reputation for top ends and I would be very surprised if any real work was ever required to one that had been given regular oil changes and used in trials that did not require revving to valve bounce before popping the clutch.

Assuming you are in the UK, try Shell V-power petrol. With ordinary unleaded you are trying to get an old system to run perfectly on a mix of chemicals never even dreamed of when it was designed. The V-power at least has some better properties - sorted my Beta out anyway so I use it on the SWM too. Sorry, just noticed your reference to Esso SU. I find Shell the best so might still be worth a try.

How do the discs know that the cold liquid is brake cleaner and not water? I've sprayed water from a hand plant sprayer on the same discs for ten years and had no problems. But they are not glowing red when I do so admittedly. How hot are you going to get a trials disc running twice round the car park for goodness' sake.

I'd say a Beta 200 would be ideal. All the advantages pointed out by Shazsfan with the weight advantage of the 125. There may be more 125s on the secondhand market but 200s are generally used by riders who will not have imposed the "benefit" of modern riding techniques.on their bike.

The Beta has been neglected over the last few months while I did things twinshock but, as I have just got the Beta sorted, I thought I should update those who were good enough to respond. Turns out the triggers needed to be replaced, though why that was cured intermittently by changing the plug i don't know.

Can we have that one on a postcard instead of on the stamp?

Blocked exhaust perhaps?

Well Dad, after the stick you've had on here (some of which amounts to personal abuse and would have seen the perpetrator barred from at least one other forum I read), you must be having a wee smile to yourself when your opinion on gearboxes seems to have been vindicated in GasGas 249's latest interview.

Thanks Martin - no switch gubbins on mine, though it would have had, so I'll proceed on the basis of the diagram.

You're right Baldilocks, t'ain't a Honda. Thanks ourian, I know the principles, I've done enough of them over the years. There's usually a bullet connector or other means of getting the cut out wire in to the system. The standard electronic ignition on the SWM has several wires coming up from the generator bound together in a sealed outer which enters the back of a multipin plug which has a well sealed joint to the coil with no obvious access. I had hoped to get the SWM specifics from someone as I'm sure they must have had a cut out when new and I certainly don't want to have to use destructive access, even if I could tell which was the right wire. Being electronic there's no way of taking a wire in at the points.

Does anyone know how to wire a cut out button on the TL 125? The wires to the coil end in a multipin connector with no obvious way of introducing a wire. Any advice appreciated as, apart from the stuck throttle scenario, I'm getting fed up stalling it every time I want to walk a section.

As Rolls Royce would say, "adequate". But I assume you're wondering in the context of 31 bhp claimed for the Vertigo. I imagine if the Ossa differed significantly from the low twenties quoted for a Gas Gas the last time I saw a published figure for a modern bike then they'd have shouted about it. For what it's worth, the original Sherpa claimed 18 bhp if I remember correctly. There's a good reason why bhp figures have not (until Vertigo) risen much and it's to do with rideability, though with World sections now bhp may be more important than the old days when it was torque that counted more in a trials bike. I can't recall a posting asking how to increase the power of a bike but there have been plenty along the lines of "how can I detune my XYZ?". Which makes one wonder how much of a sales point a comparatively large bhp for a new bike will be in the mass market.

The original Mk2 exhaust was a primitive expansion chamber with a steel bomb shaped tail silencer with a bayonet QD fitting and was very quiet for its day. Try running without the tail silencer, as per the Mk1, and you'll find out what a noisy bike is really like. I assume it's just the Miller tail silencer you have so an original tail silencer would fit but the chances of getting one are slim though I daresay there are a few lying under workbenches.

Of course you could just put the motor in a Bantam frame. With the right exhaust it even sounds like a Bantam. The one I've seen does anyway.

Presumably Bultaco wanted to keep the thing quiet (and it certainly was) hence the weight. Back in the day one of the guys wanted to make a silencer for a special he was making and used the work facilities to x-ray a clubfoot. Seems there's a lot in there.

Petrol tank breather may be blocked. Take cap off next time and see if it restarts.

Try dragging the brake to get it hot then spray water on it. Easier than fitting new pads. May need to repeat.

Ah, "woods". Take heart, I'd suggest that an easy woods section is probably harder for the beginner than an equivalently easy rocky section. As well as all the balance and use of controls you probably also have to find grip whereas that's usually less of a problem on the right kind of rock section. Thirty-odd years ago, during the Bath Two Day (regrettably no more), we were trying to persuade a Centre champion from the south west area that he should be doing the Scottish, so impressed were we with his ability to find grip, but he thought rocks would be too hard. Our opinion was that if you can find grip in "English" mud and woods then rocks are easy to adapt to compared to going the other way. Stick at it.

That looks like an early 125 (the hubs are the giveaway but there could be any mix and match at this age) with a later tank. Try, gently, using kitchen cream cleaner, which is midly abrasive, to clean the tank. I used it with good results to clean trials bikes when they had proper plastic components on them unlike the painted ones of today. I think the paint is put on to give an extra layer for strength :-)

If you think that one's erratic you obviously haven't tried an original one :-) A normal 700c cycle wheel is close to a 21 inch front I think so the scale does go that far up. If you measure how far the wheel goes in one revolution using the valve as a reference point you can plug that in to the computer. Most instructions detail how to do this.

It's interesting how opinions/preferences can vary. I had a KT at the time and the really soft suspension was a good point, to me, and, as you say, the brakes. However I couldn't get on with the lack of flywheel weight (compared to what we were used to with Bultos etc). Also they didn't really run too well at higher revs, suffering detonation etc (this mattered in those days as most trials had roadwork), and the Alec Wright suggested remedy of removing the outer electrode of the spark plug had no effect beyond demonstrating what a powerful spark the system produced. It would not be fair to comment on performance in the sections as it had the Japanese tyres and I wasn't keen to spend on proper rubber given the other problems and didn't keep it long. Kawasaki UK commissioned Napier College in Edinburgh to do some work and I rode an early version of that without knowing the mods, other than an Amal carb, and don't recall much difference. I think the bike ended up somewhere over 300cc but I suppose the demise of the KT prevented adoption of any improvements. That bike still exists in a shed up here. I always thought that all Kawasaki had to do at design stage was copy the porting etc from one of the Spanish bikes but, hey, that approach didn't work for Italjet :-)

There is a less conventional way to remove a flywheel:=) In the day one of the guys messed up fitting a throttle cable and when the revs soared the ignition flywheel disintegrated and took part of the crankcase with it on its way through the wing of his dad's van.