2stroke4stroke

Try at least fourth, it's much easier. As far as bump starting is concerned a clutch is a clutch is a clutch, method of operation is irrelevant.

I did the fix and still use ATF with no problems. The mod should have cured the hanging on in sections, which is frustratingly inconsistent, but the best way to free off the clutch on starting is to hold in the lever, push the bike forward with a foot while putting it in to first. This prevents damage through the sudden force if you don't move the bike. Keep the clutch lever held in and change up through the box as normal. The clutch should free when you hit fourth and be OK thereafter.

From memory the brake lever fits on to a square on the end of the cam. What I can't remember is if the square was aligned with the cam or whether turning the cam through 180 degrees would effectively change the relationship with the cam and give a better action with part worn shoes. I hope that describes things properly.

Given the state of the market generally, the average rider's view of what is the right bike to have and the preponderance of ostensibly more competitive machinery on the market I don't imagine that Honda UK realistically expect to sell more than a handful anyway. That they are dealing in them at all is, I suspect, probably only a contractual obligation between Honda Japan and Montesa.

Dad indeed and Chris rode schoolboy class which may be where his smooth rolling, keep it moving, style, compared to the stop and hop of younger bicycle riders, comes from.

You've done well getting two bikes in what are basically fairly good order for their age and lack of use. Mudguards will, I imagine, be unobtainable and I would suggest preserving the undamaged alloy ones for when you want it to look right but fit plastic ones for actually using the bike. Later Monts had the best plastic guards in the history of trials - they actually worked as mudguards and you could lift the bike by them, but originals of those can't be had. Modern bikes have mudguards that break if you look at them too hard The kick start lever was in the wrong position in the photos - it might catch your leg. Correct position is rotated further forward but if you put it too far forward the mechanism will punch a hole in the casing so best research the correct way to fit the lever. Similary, don't be tempted to fold the footrest up to get a better swing on the lever.

When I bought a Pinky years ago the previous owner had added a loop to the rear of the footrest to effectively make it wider front to back. This made a big difference - if you put your weight on the back edge it was possible to turn from wheelspin to grip. Though the Birkett tweeks may have been responsible for the high grip levels it had.

As I don't know where you are I don't know if you are worried about complying with road traffic law. The lights supplied nowadays certainly don't meet the requirements in the UK so I wouldn't bother trying to get a "proper trials bike light" for the sake of that. You can get a super LED mountain bike light for £16 off e-bay and they really do the job. Battery life will be longer than a tank of fuel lasts or you can get a bigger battery or have a spare to use.

Go for a Berlingo or Doblo - two bikes in no bother.

If you have a Yamaha then adjusting the points is the only way to adjust the timing. But eventually you run out of adjustment. Moving a movable backplate gives more scope for adjustment. Personally I used to set the timing by using the backplate, having set the points to about the middle of their range, then tweaking the gap to fine tune, then again every couple of trials to keep it right using a dial gauge (and doing it that often definitely helped on the 348). As long as the timing was bang on and the points gap was within tolerance then I was happy. Dwell? The manufacturer's gap figures were designed to optimise dwell to get the points opening at the peak of the magnetic flux insofar as the relatively crude nature of a trials two stroke ignition system permitted. Nowadays of course it can all be programmed, which is great, but a programme won't push the bike off the hill when it packs in and you have nothing to tweak.

I'm not able to do the research just now but have a nagging feeling that (apart from obviously being badged as an Indian) it looks like something that was built by Laverda and sold as something else in America - or was that sold as the American Eagle?

I have to agree with the 200 Beta suggestion - at least have a go on one before spending the money. Much easier to use in a traditional style than a 125.

Do a search on the forums here http://singletrackworld.com/ and you'll find more shed security advice than you can use.

If the French importer is not as good about these things as the British one then, personally, I wouldn't be wasting my money buying another that may be no better than what he already has. Better to get a proper rebuild done by the professionals - I'm sure someone will come up with the name of a reliable outfit.

It would be difficult to get the pistons in had you done so but could you have fitted the seals the wrong way round? There's a very slight taper on them so that they seal under pressure and grip the piston to pull it back in slightly as they return to their original shape when you release the lever.

I'm sure you were there cleanorbust - http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/44300-early-cota-club/ "Very smart. You will no doubt be aware of the care required when starting these earlier models with the RHS gear lever. I recall one at the start of the SSDT at Gorgie cattle market. The thing gassed up and would not start so the rider gave it a really good kick with the throttle wide open - needless to say it fired at full bore just before the starter lever slammed the thing in to gear - he took away the starter's table and sent the gent flying. Rather early for a five."

Air screw is mixture - in for rich, tune from rich to weak. Throttle stop screw adjusts tickover speed. As above it may be the needle position at higher revs but the pilot mixture can have an effect surprisingly high up the rev range if well out. This is essential reading http://amalcarb.co.uk/downloadfiles/amal/amal_tuning_guide.pdf

By chance i was speaking at Alvie to a chap near here who, back in the 70s, had a similar channel across the back of his diesel Merc for his Bulto. The difference being he also had five bikes on a trailer behind, and let's not forget the TY 80 in the boot. Or all the riders, along with observers, inside the car.

As a matter of curiosity, how does he work out the internal arrangements without cutting yours open?

Surely most of those 6 Brits must have won back in the day of no stop so can't possibly be taken seriously as World Champions funtrials?

A modern two stroke trials bike (forget the 4RT on noise grounds) is very quiet when just running along. However I doubt you'll find anywhere near Edinburgh where you can legally do what you want to do. We've lost local(ish) trials venues to Edinburgh in recent years through folk on enduro bikes under the impression that they have the right to ride on "trails" that are actually private ground. And I think you'll find an electric bike is no more acceptable in law.

I would say that, in 40 years of riding, my Rev 3 200 is the best bike I've had for moor crossings. It's plenty fast enough (would always outpace my pal's Scorpa 250), will go up anything, grips well and, if ridden properly, does not use much petrol - a useful attribute in the Scottish. And I'm a bit heavier than you. I would suggest it should be regarded as an easy to ride 250 rather than a "small" bike.

Might be worth trying a rallying site - they must still have a similar requirement.

I imagine any of the Googleable sprocket suppliers could do one in the size you want but the gearing will then be far too low to do wheelies in 1st. If "wheelies", as opposed to just raising the front wheel, is what you want to do, then 3rd is about the lowest practicable gear anyway.

I've been trying to get them by phone for over a week with no success (their electronic system ain't working). Does anyone know if they are still on the go or what the problem may be phonewise?