how61

Fill the shock body to 52mm from the top with a good 10wt oil, remember to bleed the trapped air when you have worked the damper rod a dozen times or so.

I had the same problem with a sherco, it was 0.5mm out as well, but a liberal smear of silicone sorted it out and it has been no more trouble :-)

Hi, the frame colour wants to be Ford Electric or Monza Blue as do the tank and side panels, hope this helps.

Hi Mark, have you checked the idle speed ?? It is fairly crucial that it is set right so as to avoid the stalling in section problem. We run 2 4RT`s and find that an idle speed of 1850rpm suits them best. It is not just a matter of listening to the motor running when it has got warm and thinking "yeah that sounds about right" because 9 times out of ten it wont be ! Treat yourself to a handheld revcounter to set it with and your stalling problems may well disappear, regards Howard

Morning, a friend of mine has the same bike and suffered a similar problem. When all came to all it was the fuel tank breather pipe that had become blocked, thus causing a vacume effect in the tank so not enough fuel was being released to feed the carb on demand. It would obviously grab all the air it required when the slide was lifted but it was not getting the correct amount of fuel !! It may just be worth a look !! regards Howard

Hi, the larger screw with the knurled head and visible spring is your idle screw, the smaller, recessed slotted head screw is your mixture screw, have fun, regards Howard

Morning Steve, the used ATF that you drain from the gearbox will be cloudy pink colour anyway. Have you checked that the jets are clean in the carb ? You will experience a similar sort of problem to that which you are describing if the pilot jet is blocked, may be worth a look! regards Howard

Most of the earlier Sherco`s have a very noisey clutch which is perfectly standard and is often misinterpreted as "engine noise". Start the bike and let it warm up then pull in the clutch lever, if most of the noise disappears then you just enjoy your bargain!!! regards Howard

Morning Lewis, just contact Jamie, discuss your requirements, once you are ready, remove the tyres, rimtape`s, valves, sprocket and disc`s the bearings stay in, pack them in a box with cardboard between so they don`t knock and he will do everything else, regards Howard

Hi Andy, the price that Jamie at Candy has given you will include new spoke and nipples and the re-lacing of the wheels. He will also powder coat the spoke and hubs if you want them to look realy smart, regards Howard

Well done, you wont regret it they will look stunning. be good regards Howard

The colour realy determines which route you go down Andy, some of the colours such as the repsol orange only look right when powder coated. I suppose anodising is a more practical finnish it will scratch rather than chip if the situation arose, they all look stunning and very personnel.

Sorry Andy forgot to mention the frame boots, its just Technosel Carbon cut carefully and it goes on a treat with a bit of heat applied to the frame. It looks better than the standard factory patches which only tend to catch and tear.

The polished edges soon buff back up if they scuff, the powder coated rims will chip if they get a very hard knock but the colour touches in fine. Go on Andy give em a try!! you`ll love em! regards Howard

And these

and these

Had 3 sets of rims done by Jamie at Candy wheels, does an excellent job whether you want them powder coated or anodised, you wont get them done any better or cheaper, the Sherco rims featured in his add in T+MX news a few weeks ago and these are the other two

Hi,Pro-Bolt Ltd are the suppliers, www.tastynuts.com is the site, or tel:- 01684 851940. They are only any good as cosmetic additions and not for anything under load.

Hi all, my daughter rode a Rev 50 last season, superb little bike but it had similar problems to the ones that you are all describing. This is what I did and it improved it no end it may work for you !!. I repacked the silencer after every 6 or so outings that instantly made the bottom end better, as most of these little riders are very gentle on the throttle the engine doesn`t tend to burn the fuel efficiently and a load gets pushed through the system unused and is absorbed into the silencer packing, the mixture screw was set at 2 1/2 - 3 turns out, I opened up the airbox lid so instead of it having the standard hole configuration I made the holes into 3 slots. The fuel/oil mix was 75-1 using semi-synthetic oil and I added Silkolene pro boost (octane booster)to the fuel at a ratio of 2%, the bike different again once it was sorted , the motox style power band seemed to be smoothed out and not as noticeable, hope it helps, regards Howard

Hi, yes as Manz has said the popular ones are made by `Domino` and are the ones that we use, they usually come as a kit including a set of bar grips and retail around

Hi, we run 2 4rt`s both with the twist grips changed to the fast action type. They run superbly, instant power and excellent grip, regards Howard

You could also slacken the yoke clamps and drop the forks through slightly, saves the fender and simple to do.

Thats great news,I`m pleased that I could help, I will keep my eye out for him feature in the result table`s !! take care Howard

Morning, yes the crank should have 2 slots cut for the `key`. because the new stator fits in a different rotational position the fly wheel key will want moving to the other slot to allow it to spark at the right time, hope it helps, regards Howard

Did you remember to move the fly wheel key to the other slot ??